MrStabby

You should control roll with sway bars, not springs. Stiffer front springs are because skylines are nose heavy. I thought super streets were 6/4 ? Any stiffer than that for a street only car is a wank IMO, and will be worse for comfort AND roadholding.

Yeah you should have 14v on the power line. The 0.16 is probably the square wave signal from the ECU - does it go up when you rev? (based on my understanding of the theory - i've no first hand knowledge) EDIT: Actually IIRC the ECU switches earth not power, so the 0.16 might not change with RPM.

You'll want to reset the CAS position with a timing light after you re-assemble. Also there's spacers in the standard cover to ensure it sits at the correct distance, which is important for the CAS operation. If the distance is wrong you'll kill the CAS so make sure the new one has equivalent spacers or (if possible - i dunno i've never taken the cover off) use the spacers from the standard cover. Hopefully someone who has first hand experience can provide more detail/corrections.

That's what i was originally thinking - but its an auto!

Hitting redline easily = gearbox the most likely candidate (unless you're spinning the back wheels You would experience a slipping auto as a lot of revs but not much speed. It might just need a service, but you'll have to take it to a mechanic for a proper diagnosis. Dont drive it hard until its been looked at.

Guys getting quotes - make sure they include new idler and tensioners. And IMO you might as well do all the regular belts (aircon PS etc) while you're at it.

What leads you to believe there was a problem with the product and not the installation?

Yes they are directly comparable - its kg/mm. FWIW 8/6 is pretty stiff. If its a street only car, you'll probably want something softer (but it depends on what you like).

Excellent advice. Also, make a handwritten log of everything you do and say including with times and dates. Include notes of what the builder says.

+1 Full synth will tolerate higher temperatures than regular fluid. You should be able to get the specs from the manufacturers websites.

Ok im wrong then. I thought it was sort of on the bottom, drivers side, so you push down (to get it past the set of hooks) the left while keeping it down (towards passenger side) to slide it out. It was a few years ago now. OP - give it a gentle push around to see which directions it will go. It should move say 5-10mm "down" to get past the hooks, then slide out.

There's not a clip as such, there's a mounting bracket on the floor of the fuel tank that the cradle hooks in to. IIRC you sort of push it down then left to get it out. I dont remember exactly, but its quite easy. You're probably assuming its more difficult than it actually is!

Did you speak to engine builder about the compression? Is it actually a problem? You need to address the coilpack issue completely first, and only once that's done work out if you have a real problem. If it were me, i'd put it back on the dyno once the coilpack issue is fixed and see if it makes the right power. If not, ask the engine builder why you're getting those compression test results. Big cams can effect compression results, so maybe get a leak down to back it up.

Correct. OP, your options are; 1. R32 CPU without VCT, or with an external VCT controller 3. Z32 CPU Nistune does NOT support the R33 ECU. So which ECU do you really have?

I have the one I attempted to fix with the o-rings from that list that was posted here ages ago, but I'm assuming you want one with the correct (original) seals in it, right? EDIT: Actually you could probably have the one that's in the car now - its useless, car is not drivable.... PM me.

I'm had the same problem yesterday. One side bleeds nicely, the other never clears. So i persisted and that appears to have eventually stuffed it. When I installed the ABS a year ago I used a vac pump and had one side not clearing, but I assumed that it was just leaking around the bleed screw like you mentioned, since the pedal was quite good. Yesterday I was trying with a one man bleeder (one way valve) and that's when it really died. Foot straight to the floor now. FFFUUUUUUU Stuff it. I'll get a new ABS (hopefully the dollars high against the yen as well as the greenback).

Nobby - how's your confidence level that you'll be able to fix it? My second one has just started leaking like a sieve, which was triggered by bleeding after replacing the master cylinder..... If you're not confident I'll get a new one.

Can you post photos? They should be the same. Splitfire replacements use the same part number.

Do you mean this: Do they actually work?

Understood that closing the bleeder before pedal up is the standard way - but the workshop manual does not use this method, hence my confusion!

It says; open bleeder fully press brake pedal, allow pedal to return, wait 3 seconds repeat press/return/wait sequence twice more close bleeder repeat for each corner and ABS nipples So - is there a one way valve that stops air from getting pulled into the system when the pedal is released?

With respect to creep, I dont think there'd by any difference between bleed valve and boost controller because they're both doing similar things at that stage (in the general case). Again all theory tho, and oversimplified - I havent even considered flapper size, and how diaphram size/spring constant affect things. My guess is if you looked at the ratio of the actuator diameter to the flapper diameter, the higher the ratio the less benefit a boost controller gives you.

Boost leak. Black smoke = rich, which occurs when the AFMs measure air which leaks out before it gets into the motor. Re-check all your compressor to plenum piping joins. Edit: sorry - is it black or while/blue smoke? I assumed black.