MrStabby

+1 Full synth will tolerate higher temperatures than regular fluid. You should be able to get the specs from the manufacturers websites.

Ok im wrong then. I thought it was sort of on the bottom, drivers side, so you push down (to get it past the set of hooks) the left while keeping it down (towards passenger side) to slide it out. It was a few years ago now. OP - give it a gentle push around to see which directions it will go. It should move say 5-10mm "down" to get past the hooks, then slide out.

There's not a clip as such, there's a mounting bracket on the floor of the fuel tank that the cradle hooks in to. IIRC you sort of push it down then left to get it out. I dont remember exactly, but its quite easy. You're probably assuming its more difficult than it actually is!

Did you speak to engine builder about the compression? Is it actually a problem? You need to address the coilpack issue completely first, and only once that's done work out if you have a real problem. If it were me, i'd put it back on the dyno once the coilpack issue is fixed and see if it makes the right power. If not, ask the engine builder why you're getting those compression test results. Big cams can effect compression results, so maybe get a leak down to back it up.

Correct. OP, your options are; 1. R32 CPU without VCT, or with an external VCT controller 3. Z32 CPU Nistune does NOT support the R33 ECU. So which ECU do you really have?

I have the one I attempted to fix with the o-rings from that list that was posted here ages ago, but I'm assuming you want one with the correct (original) seals in it, right? EDIT: Actually you could probably have the one that's in the car now - its useless, car is not drivable.... PM me.

I'm had the same problem yesterday. One side bleeds nicely, the other never clears. So i persisted and that appears to have eventually stuffed it. When I installed the ABS a year ago I used a vac pump and had one side not clearing, but I assumed that it was just leaking around the bleed screw like you mentioned, since the pedal was quite good. Yesterday I was trying with a one man bleeder (one way valve) and that's when it really died. Foot straight to the floor now. FFFUUUUUUU Stuff it. I'll get a new ABS (hopefully the dollars high against the yen as well as the greenback).

Nobby - how's your confidence level that you'll be able to fix it? My second one has just started leaking like a sieve, which was triggered by bleeding after replacing the master cylinder..... If you're not confident I'll get a new one.

Can you post photos? They should be the same. Splitfire replacements use the same part number.

Do you mean this: Do they actually work?

Understood that closing the bleeder before pedal up is the standard way - but the workshop manual does not use this method, hence my confusion!

It says; open bleeder fully press brake pedal, allow pedal to return, wait 3 seconds repeat press/return/wait sequence twice more close bleeder repeat for each corner and ABS nipples So - is there a one way valve that stops air from getting pulled into the system when the pedal is released?

With respect to creep, I dont think there'd by any difference between bleed valve and boost controller because they're both doing similar things at that stage (in the general case). Again all theory tho, and oversimplified - I havent even considered flapper size, and how diaphram size/spring constant affect things. My guess is if you looked at the ratio of the actuator diameter to the flapper diameter, the higher the ratio the less benefit a boost controller gives you.

Boost leak. Black smoke = rich, which occurs when the AFMs measure air which leaks out before it gets into the motor. Re-check all your compressor to plenum piping joins. Edit: sorry - is it black or while/blue smoke? I assumed black.

My understanding of the theory is that the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flapper combined with the boost pressure on the actuator will start opening the gate before you reach target boost. So, you use a boost controller to bleed off pressure to the actuator until you have reached full boost to keep the gate shut until then. If we plotted boost vs rpm, it would looks something like this (below). Whether its important of not depends on the size of the difference between the two plots.

Not sure what you mean by that question - the gap is the same since you didnt change the plugs right? Not a good sign, you may have a bad coil. Check the resistance of the primary winding on all six - it should be the same. The spec for the stockers is 0.6 to 0.9 ohms and the yellows should be very close to that, middle and left pin when looking at coil plug. The primary winding check can only confirm if its bad, not that its good. EDIT: Sorry that spec is for external ignitor coils only. Since you're Series 2 you wont have an external ignitor and the spec/pins will be different. I'm guessing it will have 4 pins instead of 3?

Split or bellmouth? From what i understand of the theory, split should help with spool, but perhaps the improvement is negligible.

Did you change the plugs at the same time as the coils? If you put plugs in with a wider gap, that would explain it. Otherwise, check all the electrical connections are clean/tight. FWIW the more boost you run, the harder it is for the spark to jump the gap. The smaller the gap the easier it is. Why did you change if the stock ones worked?

NSN - have you got any back to back dyno sheets showing dump only changes? (That's the only thing that would settle the matter) Also, bellmouth or split?

Pretty sure you will always spool better with a boost controller. If you dont have one it will be softer when you get close full boost. Set the actuator to open at a little above the pressure you actually want it to open at, so that the controller doesn't have to work too hard. Of course you'll need a hand pump with gauge to pressure up the actuator to make it move.

I believe they're the same, as both require the external ignitor IIRC. Here's a note I made about splitfire part numbers; 1. SF-DIS-001 = All R32, 33GTR, Series1 33GTST (all external ignitor) 2. SF-DIS-005 = Series1.5 GTST(old body new motor), Series2 GTST, 34GTR (integrated ignitor) 3. SF-DIS-008 = Neo 34GTT

Yeah cap is just pressed in. Good luck!