MrStabby

That might have been me. I tried the seals listed in that thread (the list in incomplete BTW) and they didnt seal. The original seals are not circular in cross-section, and i'm convinced that generic o-rings, which is what is listed in the thread, wont work. Look at the seals in master cylinders and calipers - they're not round either. I would love to be proved wrong, but IMO if you cant find the exact seals its not worth the trouble. If you do try it, the cap in the middle at the top of the unit had a large bolt head under it. Undo that bolt and it should come apart. Also make a note of which solenoid sits where, as when you pull it apart they will fall out. Nobby, if you're in Sydney you can have the seals i have left over if you like.

Yeah, but it cant hurt to specifically ask him to do it. I think 330 is possible given the current power and boost level, but I wont know until I try. I probably need a stronger clutch, and if i'm taking the gearbox out I should do something about the noisy input shaft bearing.... so i'm putting it off for a while. Re exhaust, get the tuner to drop it at the front pipe to see if its an issue or not.

Injectors are seimens 550's, but they were originally bought to replace leaking stockers before i got the -7s. AFMs are stock, so I assume they're out of resolution at full torque. In this case the tune should be extra rich in the map areas where AFMs are maxed so the engine wont lean out on a cold day (cold air = more air mass, which means it also needs more fuel, but the ECU has no way of knowing that). When the AFMs are maxed the ECU is just estimating fuel delivery based on RPM. I'm probably going to get nismo AFMs before i push it to 320-330.

Here you go: from the RB26 sticky. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5137973 Since you've got the 700s use them instead of an FPR. My standard coilpacks are fine with iridiums at 0.8mm.

IMO you could make a little more than 270 with that combo as is. First thing to check is the exhaust. AFMs you can tune past with an element of risk, injectors are risky near 100% and fatal over 100%. Also clean injectors flow far more than dirty ones. There was a recent thread showing injector that were flowing evenly, but flowed 20% more after they were cleaned. So, as well as rail pressure and AFR, injector cleanliness will determine how far you can get on the stockers. If they're leaking already its a no-brainer - replace them.

Just north of Newcastle past Raymond Terrace, Buckets Way through Gloucester, Walcha/Uralla. Then you're close enough to Armidale or Tamworth. Long drive. No traffic. Bendy bits and open bits I don't like Old Pac. Too busy and not enough visibility.

Exactly - think of a 9v battery as apposed to a D sized one at 1.5v. FWIW the 9 volt actually has 4? little cells inside. Sort of like a 12v car battery has 6 cells. The 48v will just be more, smaller, cells.

Was the -9 price with or without actuators? AFAIK -5 and -7 come with actuators and -9s dont (unless you get the alternative part number which includes them)

Maybe like a spark plug does now - the laser could burn off any carbon. Next step to upgrade the tech on an RB would be direct injection since that's a mature technology already. The laser stuff is a while away if it ever gets into production. I reckon internal combustion has got a fair bit of life left in it. Either ethanol or gas (Australia has shedloads of gas. There's just been a $90 billion 20 year deal signed with China).

Bollocks A *little* better than -7s when you're over 300kws otherwise SFA difference. I'm 305kw @17psi with -7s. OP; - turbos are key part of the equation, no sense in getting -5s just because they're cheaper. You get them if you want 380kws. For 300 they're a bad choice. - if you're ever going to do dumps, do them now, but you could just as well not bother. If you look at cost/benefit, -7s without dumps will be much better than -5s with dumps for around the same cost. - when i checked pricing, -7s were $400 cheaper for the pair than -9s with new actuators. Dont use old actuators.... - you're thinking about cams (waste) but maybe buying -5s to save a little money? That doesn't make sense. You need to let us know how tight the money is and what results you want. Option 1 - 280kw - cheap; -7s, cam gears, stock dumps, injectors, AFMs Option 2 - 330kw - medium; -9s, cam gears, 550 injectors, nismo AFMs Option 3 - 380kw - exxy; -5s, cam gears, 700 injectors, nismo AFMs, dumps, oh and BUILT MOTOR and gearbox upgrade to keep 3rd gear in one piece.... And Nismoid's exhaust rule; 300kw = 3 in 350kw = 3.5 in 400kw = 4 in

Track + 400kw means you will need one if you want to be out there for any length of time. Street and drag are ok without it. Some kits go in front of the radiator (eg the HKS kit i'm using) which is less effective. With that much power you'll want to have it in front of the front wheel using the openings under the headlight to get a good flow of cool air through the core. Not that much extra oil, maybe a litre?

The one with the bigger piston will brake harder. Surely you have a mixed up set and using them like that would be dangerous and illegal....

AFAICT an ignitor is just a transistor (so in early skylines the ignitor pack contains 6 transistors) but it might also contain some capacitors to "tune" the circuit. Transistor = electronically controlled switch. Similar in function to a relay. So yeah switches power to the coilpacks.

Getting them cleaned and tested would a sensible next step. Stock ECU at 1 bar you expect to see black smoke.

I guess you could measure the distance between then pistons when they're fully seated and compare between the two sets of calipers. If the distance is the same, then the rotor width should be the same. Only complicating factor is pad width, so check that as well. For some calipers you can order different width pads.

What boost are you running? Are the replacement injectors new or used? Black smoke = rich mixture, which you'd expect on a stock ECU, especially if you've raised the boost.

Batteries provide a huge amount of capacitance, so I cant see any obvious problem. What am i missing?

I'm always used to seeing a copper one, so based on that - yes!

You can get springs "reset" to change their length - i got Heasmans in Sydney to raise my car (which happened to be running Teins, but it can be done on anything) using this method. Otherwise give Fulcrum a call as they're the Tein resellers in Australia.

http://scienceblog.com/44560/laser-sparks-revolution-in-internal-combustion-engines/

I did the exactly same - camera got me at 60. Its retarded having main roads like Cleveland Street only 50kph.

+1. Ratchet ring spanners and magnet on a stick FTW on this job.

The second turbo will spin, but wont make any boost as the air blows back through the compressor of the dead turbo.... So since OP is getting boost, its not an exploded turbine.