MrStabby

If you mean come on earlier, yes. "raise" ie above one bar, no because its the boost controller's job to keep it at the right level.

Its crying out for an ECU+tune. Nistune would be the best option. Dont bother with anything else until that's done. If you want to go fuel pump, nismo or sard drop ins are the nicest but not the cheapest. If you're strapped for cash just enjoy the car as is.

I've used my GTR as a daily, but only 1 hour trips each way. Are you sure the clutch booster is working? (clutch pedal should be lighter when the engine is on and feeding it vacuum). I've never been in a skyline with standard suspension.... If the shocks are tired it makes the ride worse.

Which EBC's? In what way bad? I've tried DS2500 and DS3000 which are well respected and yeah they were fine (except 3000s are brutal on rotors if you use them cold, so no good for street). But the Yellows were just as good (and i'm running 60 more rwkw now) and far cheaper at the time.

I like the EBC yellows... I run them in the G4 330mm front kit with air deflectors, no stone guards and stock rear brakes on my 300kw R32 GTR and it works well. But since you've got the Brembos not the sumitomos i'd try the yellows all round with decent fluid and air deflectors. I've run Motul BRF600 with no problems, but am going to try the Nulon to see how it goes since its a third the price. Motul = 310 degress, Nulon = 280 degrees IIRC. If you go plan B you'll still want the air deflectors.

Thanks - I have found it difficult to get specs, but is sounds like it could be; Inlet Duration: 240 std, 240 N1 Inlet Lift: 8.58mm std, ? N1 Exh. Duration: 236 std, 248 N1 Exh. Lift: 8.28mm std, ? N1 Do you know if N1 cams respond less to cam tuning? CRD found cam adjustment didnt make much difference on my car. I have a 24U block, N1 water pump, higher that stock oil pump flow, and an 8500rpm redline so i'm assuming its an N1 motor.

Sorry for the hijack - but Baron do you have the rest of the N1 specs (exh duration, intake and exh lift?)

AFAIK the law states that goods must be "fit for purpose". Call Fair Trading to see what they say. You may need to pay to get an expert opinion (mechanical engineer? metallurgist?) for comment, but FT will instruct you. Nissan are probably just trying to make you go away so they dont have the replace the wheel for free. Consumer protections are quite strong so dont just accept what they say.

Ok so the OP needs to check the dimensions (snout OD, balancer ID, roundness) with a micrometer. If the snout OD is within spec then its reasonable to repair the keyway, if not, new crank. If the balancer ID is out of spec then just get a new balancer. If the gap is a little bit more than spec, would it be possible to dodgy up some of the clearance with a locktite product? Also, I'm guessing the crank should be annealed after welding (assuming its safe to do so) to really do the job correctly.

To check I understand what's been said above and the bits i know - is this a good summary? - the keyway is only use to locate the balancer during installation, and does nothing once the bolt is installed - the only reason the balancer needs to be located is so the timing marks are in the correct location (ie it's not counterweighted or ??) - so the only effect of a worn keyway is that the timing marks will be a little off But if i understand Elite, he's saying the balancer will come loose again if the keyway is stuffed and the motor is revved high. Que?

How did you find that out? Back to back, same tune, same plugs etc test on a dyno?

So the stock turbos survive at 25 psi but the crank doesnt? WTF? Too many weird and convoluted stories with this one - my dodginess alarm is going off. Personally, I wouldnt buy it.

Dammit i've got to sig that. So few words, so much sense.

So there's your answer. Its not a final, full power tune. Sounds like your tuner is being conservative to keep the risk of a blown motor/turbo failure/whatever to the minimum. If that's the case, then his opinion and approach should be respected. 3in is definitely too small for -5s and therefore sub-optimal. It would be worth getting a 3.5 or 4 in fitted before you take it back for the full power tune. Dont skimp on the cat.

The lulz are strong in this one.

Yeah I find that hard to believe. Since having the receipt is so important when selling the car, you'd have to be a retard not to hang on to it. OP - will the workshop provide a copy of the receipt? Shouldn't be a problem as they have already confirmed verbally that they did the work. If not, I'd assume there is no build and you are buying stock, and work out the value on that basis.

I thought leaking was common on old GTR injectors? No? I also had a couple leaking.

First thing i'd do is get under and check that all the exhaust bolts are present (check either side of the cat) and check the rubber mounts are still there.

Is the fan wobbly? IIRC when the pump bearings go, the fan will wobble a bit but you'll probably need to loosen the belt to see it. Any sort of noise is a bad sign. If the timing belt is old, baby it around until you get it changed.

Do autoworx sell PCPA's? (and not offer Garrett?). If so, join the dots....

Cool thing is that cops think all skylines are NA, they dont know that they come with turbos as well. So they'll just assume its NA and never pull you over to check. WIN!

Correct - you're replacing like for like. Here's my DIY on GTR injector installation, its pretty easy: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/285621-diy-gtr-injector-replacement/

The resistors inside are 5 ohms each. So, run a multimeter between pin 3 (the common) and then 1/4/5/6/7/8 in turn and each should be about 5 ohms. When looking at the plug with the clip on the top, the pins are; clip 1234 5678

Yeah, the leaking is a telltale sign. Also BB I thought standard injector latency was 0.77, not 0.65....

+1. I tried ebay silicon radiator hoses. They always weeped, and the top let go after about 18 months. I'm back to OEM now. As you say, you dont want to be doing it again, so get something trustworthy.