MrStabby

Is the temperature any different with the new fluid? Did you say transmax Z is now green (or was green the colour of the old fluid)? It was red when i used it in my powersteer about 18 months ago. If you're running 350+kw it might be worth using superlight shockproof instead. I have no direct experience tho, just what's bounced around my skull after lots of reading. BeerBaron or TO4GTR etc would know.

The should be a single pipe come from the booster to feed it vacuum, so you should follow that and plug the end. re pedal pressure, its probably similar to what its like when the engine is off.

Sorry no idea about the heat, but you may as well make sure its got the correct fluid as the most basic maintenance. Oddly, the getrags actually require synthetic auto transmission fluid, like castrol transmax Z. IIRC redline superlight shockproof is an alternative. You could open the fill hole and put your finger in to see if its the usual transmission fluid red, but if you havent changed the transmission fluid since you got the car you might as well do it for peace of mind.

Thanks for letting us know. Thats a handy little increase and it confirms what is expected WRT power and spool. If it were me, next step would be to try a decat on the dyno to see if there's any potential for a better result with a bigger (5 inch?) cat.

I've got 550cc seimens in my GTR. Got them about 18 months ago from a US ebay shop (called Performance Injection IIRC) for around $500 new. They're 4 hole and work well. The shop offered them as suitable for RB26 and they were fine - fitted into the standard top mount rail, just needed to use the standard sized o rings rather than the ones that came on the injector. I guess you're getting side feeds so not sure how useful this is for you.

Can you explain why using a "thin" oil is related to his problem? Can you quote a source that states 20W-50? FWIW the R32 GTR workshop manual says 7.5W-30 is the correct grade. Do you realise that a 0W-40 and a 10W-40 are the same viscosity at operating temperature?

Nah - miss is where the fuel doesnt ignite at all, so it is rough running, running on 5 cylinders. Flat spot is just low power, but smooth.

Top photo looks like power steer pump. Dodgy thing is that pipe clamp on the high pressure hose from it. I'm guessing this has been put on to hold a blister down or attempt to plug the leak.... Replace the hoses. Either take them down to an enzed or pirtek and they can make up new ones, or just get spare parts instead. Check all engine oil and PS fluid levels. Pretty sure the PS fluid will be low. PS fluid is red when its new.

Turbo is make or break for the application. Typically people first get an idea of what sort of power they want to make, choose the smallest turbo that comfortably meets that power goal, then build whatever else is required around that. You're doing it wrong Its a grey area but my guess is that you'll want to keep power below 350rwkw with a stock bottom end. Doesnt really matter what turbo or what psi, although the lower the revs the better.

I always assumed that fuel surge would probably damage a motor - with lean outs and power cutting in and out... a quick search turned up these threads below that seem to support that idea. Might be worth doing something about it before the next motor goes in. At the very least it will mean you always have power in corners. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/188138-fuel-surge/page__p__3394937 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/316605-help-please-no-1-cylinder-low-compression-and-turbo-failure/page__view__findpost__p__5181420

All non-viscous type harmonic balancers are tuned to the crankshaft, so you should either; - use one that's made for the crank, so AFAIK only RB30 ones are suitable (unless you can confirm that other rb cranks have the same harmonics as the 30) - use a viscous one The non-viscous ones are the typical inner hub -> rubber ring -> outer ring style like OEM ones.

So - The tuner reckons it was running fine during the road test (that is, no pinging OR flat spots OR missing) and you agree there was no flat spot or missing. Since then its developed a flat spot and a miss - did those things happen at the same time? What has changed since the tune? How many kms has it been?

And you can make 360kw with a 3in exhaust, but as you've said before just because you can do it doesn't mean its a good solution. Does the same logic not apply to airboxes?

On the previous page it was stated that Z32s can read 370kw, so; - for less than 300kw use the standard afms - for 300-370kw, a single Z32 - for 370+kw, use two Z32s Of course that's if you're only considering metering capability. You then need to look at plumbing and cost to come up with an answer.

Obvious troll is obvious. "rough" and "conservative" don't mean the same thing...

If; - the assumption that RB26 nismos have the same response to Z32s, and - the graph is correct Then no, it wont. However, I doubt that RB26 nismos will respond the same as Z32s since the the Z32s are larger in diameter - it doesnt matter that they have the same guts (hotwire and electrics), the air speed will be a lot less due to the diameter. I'm just guessing of course. FWIW http://paulr33.com/ has the rates as; Single Z32 AFM 350rwkw Twin RB26 AFMs 300rwkw Twin Z32 AFMs 511rwkw NFI why 2 x 300 = 511.....

The rule of thumb is 1hp at the flywheel for each 1cc of injector with pump 98 - so the 550/534 size suits -7s or -9s. If you're going to keep the boost down to keep the unbuilt motor safe (ie the 330kw you mentioned) you should be ok. If injector duty gets tight you can just pull the boost down a little further. It seems to me there's two clear options - Which of these are you aiming for? 1. Cheap - unbuilt motor, -7s/-9s, 550cc, 3 or 3.5 inch exhaust 2. $$$$$ - built motor, -5s, 700cc, 3.5 or 4 inch exhaust, aftermarket gear set to stop third from stripping Of course if you go with option 1 with -5s you don't have the most responsive turbos, but since its expensive to change, maybe you can just live with it.

Searching with "mobile bolt extraction" was getting me nowhere - tried that before i posted. I tried again with a bunch of different search terms and "mobile thread repair service" finally come up with the goods. For northside I found recommendations for "J & G Thread Repair Service" in Thornleigh and Threadman in Mona Vale. I'll keep looking for something over this way.

I'm thinking about a set of flex head ratchet spanners like these: http://www.vektools.com.au/kincrome-7pce-flex-lock-gear-spanner-p-1806.html Other ones dont have the angle lock - is it important? Can the angle lock be left disengaged on the kinchromes? I'm thinking that in some cases you might want it to swing to get around obstacles.

Nismo have two types, 10% and 25%. The 10% feels like a tighter stock shifter.

I managed to snap the air bleeder in the head I'm not going to try to remove it myself - any recommendations?

+1, or the regulator may have died. You said "Put a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail, pressure did not drop at all" but did you see it rise following the boost rise? ie you had 20psi more fuel pressure in the rail at 20psi boost?

So how do I track this down - was it similar to the rb30 one just with a longer shaft (so the fan sits further from the motor?) Who would have a bunch of them in stock to compare against? Repco/autoone etc? I only have one car....

The only one i've seen (was a mazda rx4) was about 40mm in diameter and horizontal.

Model - Part number - rhdjapan.com price; R32 - 21082-05U00 - $520 R33/34 - 21082-24U00 - $440 But rhd reckons that 05U00 is good for 32/33/34 GTRs, and 24U00 is good for 33/34 GTRs and stag 260s. Has anyone tried a 33/34 clutch on a 32? Any ideas where I can get a cheaper one (I dont want to use a 20 year old second hander...).