MrStabby

Sorry i've done something to FAST and its not showing the options anymore...

The last option scrolled off the screen is: WIPR2 F/REAR WIPER Not sure how to get the other stuff... maybe i can show you in person?

Make a request for a FAST lookup on - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/133729-nissan-fast/ to find out what you have.

Just FYI, here's the response from Brakewest; "hi adam, sorry but the 1" master is not available in the after market, reco or genuine is your options. cheers goran - brakewest"

Makes sense. No, that's not it. I'd say it would be manufacturing cost of having a taper of the right length blend into the pipe bend which is quite close after the diameter change.

You could send the oil away for analysis - that can tell you if there's abnormal piston/ring or bearing wear, how much fuel is in the oil etc.

I wouldn't call that fried since there's no change in the coilpack caused by the change in boost. They are stuffed though. The typical failure mode is that the insulation has broken down so that high tension side of the coil finds an easier path to earth than across the plug gap. This is often to straight to the circular part of head that the coilpack sits in (check for arcing marks). The increase in boost causes the electrical resistance across the plug gap to increase as the resistance of air increases with pressure. So, if you put the boost back down then you'll probably get normal running back. Other choices are to add insulation to the coilpack (check the DIY section for a howto) or reduce the plug gap or a combination of both. Or just buy new coilpacks, and only reduce the plug gap if you still get missfire.

There's no way a boost controller can fry coilpacks - you have misunderstood what has happened to your car.

+1. Highly recommended. Will be back for the Advanced course.

Since you're doubling the size of the injector, you'll be injecting about double the amount of fuel - my guess is it wont even run that rich. With a programmable ECU you just use the injector resize function and it changes the signal it sends to the injector to compensate for the change. You then need to check and probably fine tune.

In that article the guy says that his intercooler exit temperature is almost ambient, so he has optimised for the condition when the turbo is doing next to nothing. If he were to try again with a turbo running hard (so the compressor is adding heat) then he would find that insulating the pipe is a backwards step (assuming underbonnet temperatures are less than compressed air temperatures). But yeah, probably doesnt make much difference either way, as sections of pipe are not great heat exchangers. Djr has it right, the answer is No

Insulating the intercooler exit piping? Really? What happens when the turbo is operating hard and adding heat to the incoming air, so the compressed air is HOTTER than the underbonnet temperature.....

This would be better in Forced Induction Performance. Is this correct? - it was running fine with factory boost control at about 7psi - you made some electronic boost controller changes and it ran like shit - you tried a manual boost controller on 7psi and it still runs like shit (but the boost builds fine to 7psi and holds there) What do the plugs look like? (fouled?) Are you running standard ECU and turbo? Double check for leaks in your piping.

No he said "std GTR Brembo before on my car and was interesting to compare them against the Sumitomo R32 GTSt caliper on the same sized rotor" so GTR rotors with GTST calipers, which arent that much different to the brembos; 4 piston and IIRC the piston sizes are identical or similar.

Many people go straight from 1.1 down to 0.8, but if you want to optimise then go for that largest gap that you dont get missfire... Also - check the DIY section for how to silicon/electrical tape your coilpacks to stop them arcing to the head. You might be able to continue running the gap you have now.

Mitsubishi 90amp - I checked the workshop manual

If it werent for the oil pressure issue, i'd say it sounds like a loose metal shield. What oil are you using? Tried something thicker (the second number represents the hot thickness and is the one to bump up, ie if you're running a ?W-40 try a ?W-50) to see if it makes any difference? You should get your used oil analysed - the report might point to the problem.

That add says 3.5in flanged - that is for a 3.5in pipe, and the cat body is larger than that, probably 4 inch. Check the catco prices as well. The flow measurements are meaningless without stating what be pressure is....

The coilpacks could be fine - IMO you should swap with a known good set and try them before buying a new set. Splitfires have a good reputation. Other things to look at are the coilpack wiring, injectors and injector wiring (if your injectors are low impedance there's a resistor pack in the circuit). Having said that, intermittent problems are often coilpacks... If it were me i'd get the other three issues sorted first as they should be easier to sort out, then see if the drop out is still there and if so move onto troubleshooting that. PM me if you want some help