MrStabby

The rule of thumb is 1hp at the flywheel for each 1cc of injector with pump 98 - so the 550/534 size suits -7s or -9s. If you're going to keep the boost down to keep the unbuilt motor safe (ie the 330kw you mentioned) you should be ok. If injector duty gets tight you can just pull the boost down a little further. It seems to me there's two clear options - Which of these are you aiming for? 1. Cheap - unbuilt motor, -7s/-9s, 550cc, 3 or 3.5 inch exhaust 2. $$$$$ - built motor, -5s, 700cc, 3.5 or 4 inch exhaust, aftermarket gear set to stop third from stripping Of course if you go with option 1 with -5s you don't have the most responsive turbos, but since its expensive to change, maybe you can just live with it.

Searching with "mobile bolt extraction" was getting me nowhere - tried that before i posted. I tried again with a bunch of different search terms and "mobile thread repair service" finally come up with the goods. For northside I found recommendations for "J & G Thread Repair Service" in Thornleigh and Threadman in Mona Vale. I'll keep looking for something over this way.

I'm thinking about a set of flex head ratchet spanners like these: http://www.vektools.com.au/kincrome-7pce-flex-lock-gear-spanner-p-1806.html Other ones dont have the angle lock - is it important? Can the angle lock be left disengaged on the kinchromes? I'm thinking that in some cases you might want it to swing to get around obstacles.

Nismo have two types, 10% and 25%. The 10% feels like a tighter stock shifter.

I managed to snap the air bleeder in the head I'm not going to try to remove it myself - any recommendations?

+1, or the regulator may have died. You said "Put a fuel pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail, pressure did not drop at all" but did you see it rise following the boost rise? ie you had 20psi more fuel pressure in the rail at 20psi boost?

So how do I track this down - was it similar to the rb30 one just with a longer shaft (so the fan sits further from the motor?) Who would have a bunch of them in stock to compare against? Repco/autoone etc? I only have one car....

The only one i've seen (was a mazda rx4) was about 40mm in diameter and horizontal.

Model - Part number - rhdjapan.com price; R32 - 21082-05U00 - $520 R33/34 - 21082-24U00 - $440 But rhd reckons that 05U00 is good for 32/33/34 GTRs, and 24U00 is good for 33/34 GTRs and stag 260s. Has anyone tried a 33/34 clutch on a 32? Any ideas where I can get a cheaper one (I dont want to use a 20 year old second hander...).

Sorry i've done something to FAST and its not showing the options anymore...

The last option scrolled off the screen is: WIPR2 F/REAR WIPER Not sure how to get the other stuff... maybe i can show you in person?

Make a request for a FAST lookup on - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/133729-nissan-fast/ to find out what you have.

Just FYI, here's the response from Brakewest; "hi adam, sorry but the 1" master is not available in the after market, reco or genuine is your options. cheers goran - brakewest"

Makes sense. No, that's not it. I'd say it would be manufacturing cost of having a taper of the right length blend into the pipe bend which is quite close after the diameter change.

You could send the oil away for analysis - that can tell you if there's abnormal piston/ring or bearing wear, how much fuel is in the oil etc.

I wouldn't call that fried since there's no change in the coilpack caused by the change in boost. They are stuffed though. The typical failure mode is that the insulation has broken down so that high tension side of the coil finds an easier path to earth than across the plug gap. This is often to straight to the circular part of head that the coilpack sits in (check for arcing marks). The increase in boost causes the electrical resistance across the plug gap to increase as the resistance of air increases with pressure. So, if you put the boost back down then you'll probably get normal running back. Other choices are to add insulation to the coilpack (check the DIY section for a howto) or reduce the plug gap or a combination of both. Or just buy new coilpacks, and only reduce the plug gap if you still get missfire.

There's no way a boost controller can fry coilpacks - you have misunderstood what has happened to your car.

+1. Highly recommended. Will be back for the Advanced course.

Since you're doubling the size of the injector, you'll be injecting about double the amount of fuel - my guess is it wont even run that rich. With a programmable ECU you just use the injector resize function and it changes the signal it sends to the injector to compensate for the change. You then need to check and probably fine tune.