MrStabby

S2s dont have an external ignitor pack, that function is integrated onto the coilpack.

Justin's suggestion is good. Wire them shut and see if they build boost properly. If they do then yeah the actuators are the problem. CRD found a bunch of crap in my intercooler when they installed my turbos..... WhereTF did that come from??!!

Cool - i'll see you there. Who else from SAU will be there on Sunday 30th?

I would be interesting to see what it would make if you dropped the cat back. The consensus here appears to be that people find they can get good gains at that power level by going bigger than 3in. Nismoid posted; 300kw = 3in 350kw = 3.5in 400kw = 4in recently as a rough guideline/rule of thumb on what is the sweet spot for exhaust sizing. No doubt he'll slap me if i've misunderstood his post.

Looks good to me! Cool solution - should be fine long term as the spring will be nowhere near its elastic limit (that is where it is permanently stretched). Just need to make sure all wires etc are tied clear of it, which i'm sure he's already done.

This was as good as i could get from the phone; Also i made a graph of boost response on my car for stock turbos compared to 34 N1s. 1 bar at about 3900, but i *think* my cam gears are still at 0 degrees. Very few data points so not reliable.

Since you're down on power over what you should be seeing you should address that before you look at any more "modding". I'd do this; 1. Change injectors because they're at their limit now, if you manage you fix whatever issue you have they'll be past maxed out 2. get compression checked, if that's ok then 3. 4in 200 or 100 cell cat and another dyno run. If power is still down drop the cat back to see if the 3.5in HKS is a problem If that gets you north of 360kw then you can look at mods. If not, continue troubleshooting. Then cam gears. Splitfires only if there's a problem with the stockers. But yeah, for me stock motor means -7s or -9s, if you're going for -5s then you want a built motor.

I have the same turbos and they come with actuators so i assume we're running the same actuators as well. I didnt do the install or set them up tho so i cant add anything else other than maybe try with the boost controller now with the extra preload and see how that goes. Here's my setup with boost curve; EBC is an old greddy profec

Oh im rb26 with twins and have still have the narrowbands in for closed loop. The bung is on the front pipe after the merge about 20cms before the cat. Wont worry about the temp sensor then - I would have to run two and pull the turbos to get the extra bungs done. Thanks for all the help.

Crank the preload up so they open at 15 psi, then try again (carefully as DVS32R says) with the boost signal disconnected an plugged. Remember that the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flapper also pushes it open (as well as the boost pressure on the actuator diaphram).

Tell me more; - are they same thread but thinner sensor so should plug straight in? - are they still effective that far from the turbo? - which one/how much?

Sounds like a wastegate is leaking or has next to no preload from the actuator (sorry i dont know what the half hole to full hole thing means, but since they open at 9 psi sounds ok). 9 is almost 10... hmm - at what rpm does it hit 10? I you have a boost leak it will run extra rich.

Defensive much? Perhaps those posters are thinking that whoever told you it made 450 is a liar, and therefore you cannot trust anything else this person has said to you. Also *middle sway bar ( in photo of interior) <= WTF??!! *torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale) <= if the controller doesnt work it will be taily but still put torque to the front wheels. If it doesnt, it could be expensive to fix. *drilled rotors <= likely to crack with track use

On R32 nistune boards they supply a socket that you solder onto the PCB, and then you insert the nistune into that socket. Typically EEPROMs are not soldered directly either, but use a similar or identical socket. So, if the EEPROM has the same pin type, then you wont need to do any soldering you just pull out the EEPROM and insert the nistune (carefully, the pins are fragile - you can get special pliers to pull EEPROMs). IIRC the only possible difference is the cross sectional shape of the pins - nistune are round and EEPROMs are square. A socket may or may not be able to take both types depending on its design. The pin spacing and layout will always be correct. I'm 90% sure on that pin stuff.... check the nistune site they have installation instructions. Get someone whos a pro at surface mount soldering to do the soldering if its required. It would well be worth running CONSULT against your current setup to see if it reports any errors (you may be mistaken about the problem). If you have a problem that is sensor related, get that fixed before you do anything with tuning so you dont muddy the waters.

80! Bugger! I guess i can get the inno bung installed at an exhaust shop. Silver lining is that I can put it in a better location to protect the sensor from ground damage, which was a bit of a worry.

8/6 is still pretty stiff, and IMO too stiff for a street only car. I'm guessing you're more likely to like 6/4. It would well be worth getting a ride in cars with those rates as everyone has they own idea about what they call stiff and what they like. If it were me i'd think about using different springs with the suspension you have, since it looks alright. Any identifying stickers?

Facepalm! Wow...the senility is really kicking in hard. Anyways the bung is the correct thread but the hole in the pipe is too small so i'm to to have to drill it out and run a tap through it.....

You can of course get the EEPROM re-written each time you want a tune, but a Nistune daughtercard will plug into the socket the EEPROM is in and give you the ability to update much more easily, and you wont need a tuner who has an EEPROM writer etc. You can also use the software to do CONSULT checks from a laptop (if you buy a CONSULT cable). Unless you plan to make no further mods the Nistune will be a better option.

1 & 2: Cant comment much other than to say I originally bought a bosch for the GTR, but didnt like the way it didnt fit the cradle or use the fuel pick up sock, so i swapped it for a $200 more expensive sard. 3. Skylines have an earth switching pump controller. I think ppl get scared because they see 12v at idle, and dont realise this is because the controller has used a soft earth to drop the voltage. The controller switches the full 14+V when required. IMO the only reason to go for the direct earth is because the controllers can fail (mine did). 4. Most ppl who change fuel reg's waste their money. Typically its a hack to get a little bit more flow out of your injectors. Pretty sure the stock 370cc injectors are ok for 200kws but thats about their limit.

Oh i meant relay, not solenoid (i was thinking about what was in a relay...)

Ok no click, so it sounds like no power to the starter. There must also be a solenoid for that starter - it should be under the bonnet - so it will need to be checked along with the fuses. Yeah battery sounds good.

Checked the fuses Have the checked the battery's voltage or tried a jump start? Dont assume the battery is ok just because everything else is working. Do you hear the solenoid throwing the starter's gear at the flywheel? (ie a click)?

Yeah its an innovative unit. The plug is pretty big - i'd need to cut at 4cm diamater hole to get it. How big was the hole you cut? I was hoping to avoid drilling or cutting if possible.