MrStabby

Great you got it back - just get some security NOW! Supposedly the drop in short term thefts from 2000 to 2010 is due to improved car security. I got Leon from www.securityinmotion.com.au to install the alarm in my car - he did a good job. 0407 106 822. Heard about him from this forum.

Diff drain intervals are typically closer to 100,000km than 10,000kms.... If you use fully synthetic you can triple the factory drain interval.

FWIW - fishtailing occurs when you over-correct in a slide, so you need to get driver training to stop that

"I smashed my clutch foot years ago in a MC accident so I really don't want to have to put in a heavy clutch and spoil the experience." "This car will do the odd motorsport event but manly be babied on the street where I really enjoy the driveability" Those statements suggest to me that the 8000rpm launch use case is not relevant

I'm running a cheap ass nice soft pedal $500 organic single plate with 305kw - no problems....An NPC or Jim Berry organic could no doubt hold more, and we're not even talking about buttons/ceramics yet. So, twin plate are not necessary unless you head well north of 300kw IMO.

As stated the stock injectors and AFMs are ok to about 280kw, so just run 12psi or whatever gets you to 280kw with the -9s. FWIW, -9s are about $400 more a pair than -7s when you include actuator cost. If you want <320kw you may prefer to save the $400, but if you want to push to 330+ the -9 are definitely the way to go - better turbos no doubt. Of course you'll need to re-tune when you change turbos, and also when you change injectors and/or AFMs.

Since you're not getting anything here try posting in Forced Induction Performance

And if you do get crap in there, there's more chance you'll get missfire due to coil to head arcing.

"Laggy" is in the eye for the beholder, so you guys should probably avoid that term. Can we at least agree that 32/33 N1s are laggier than 34 N1s, and therefore if you were looking at new turbos you'd only go for the 32/33s if you had to due to competition rules?

Its not weird - they do fail in that way. If money's tight, you can use silicon or tape to try and repair them http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119403-how-to-fix-missfire-problem/

R34 N1 are identical to Garrett -7s. Positive pressure at 2000rpm, response is close enough to stock. There not laggy/doughy unless there's something wrong with your car....Here's mine;

+1 I've had the same problem, and after two years it failed. I'm going back to Nissan OEM.

IMO, dont believe the guys that work at autobarn, but also be skepical of what peaple say here. You'll have no problem finding all the info you need to with a Google search. BPR5ES-11: the 11 refers to 1.1mm plug gap, which is stock gap. If you're running stock boost and the coilpacks are in good condition running 1.1 is obviously fine. BCPR6ES: notice that the heat range is now 6 instead of 5? A higher number means the spark plug will run colder Too cold = more chance that it will foul & missfire Too hot = more chance that you'll get pre-ignition and lower plug life Usually the more power you meke the colder the plug you require (as more power = more heat), but the tune is critcally important. The more boost you run the smaller the plug gap needs to be (or the more powerful the ignition system needs to be), as the more dense the fuel/air mix is, the harder it is for the spark to jump the gap.

What will you do to address the fuel issue? Will you use the Redline again?

I had the same problem on mine. Flare nut spanner (which is what you should be using to give yourself any chance at all) just flexed open around it. I ended up cutting the pipe off and using a socket to get it off Replacements from Nissan... Good luck.

Nice one GT - you should be able to charge a little more now . Enjoy the heat

I had one of those - it sucked. The HKS i have now is quality. $800 at the time but worth it. IMO get a jap kit or dont bother. Your motor is precious.

FWIW the viscosity is down to what you'd expect of a -30 oil (around 11). -40s are around 15 and -50s are around 19. Redline 15W-50 is 19.6 out of the bottle. EDIT: i think the report is showing the expected range as 16.3 to 21.4, they just have the symbols around the wrong way. And: * Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, excessive ring groove wear, broken thrust washers, etc. * Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc. * Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings. High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings. * Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours. * Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc. * Lead (Pb): Use of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal. * Silicon (Si): High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils. * Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package.

Include site:www.skylinesaustralia.com with the rest of your search terms in google... oh and have a nice cup of tea and a lie down.

IIRC You want to shift for the maximum torque AT THE WHEELS, so the shift point will depend on how fast the engine torque curve is dropping off, and how much multiplication factor you will loose by shifting up to the next gear. You could plot the wheel torque for each gear (from the engine torque and gearing) then the intersection points will be where you want to shift. I would guess the shift point will be slightly different for each gear (unless that's how gear ratios are chosen) Re Tune, detonation at peak torque just means that not enough timing has been pulled out, so its just a bad tune. There's no reason to avoid chasing max torque. More boost (or greater volumetric efficiency) = less timing.

That would make it run lean, but he's seeing black smoke which indicates he's running rich. +1 for leak.

Which Redline are you using? What were you using before that?