MrStabby

What will you do to address the fuel issue? Will you use the Redline again?

I had the same problem on mine. Flare nut spanner (which is what you should be using to give yourself any chance at all) just flexed open around it. I ended up cutting the pipe off and using a socket to get it off Replacements from Nissan... Good luck.

Nice one GT - you should be able to charge a little more now . Enjoy the heat

I had one of those - it sucked. The HKS i have now is quality. $800 at the time but worth it. IMO get a jap kit or dont bother. Your motor is precious.

FWIW the viscosity is down to what you'd expect of a -30 oil (around 11). -40s are around 15 and -50s are around 19. Redline 15W-50 is 19.6 out of the bottle. EDIT: i think the report is showing the expected range as 16.3 to 21.4, they just have the symbols around the wrong way. And: * Aluminum (Al): Thrust washers, bearings and pistons are made of this metal. High readings can be from piston skirt scuffing, excessive ring groove wear, broken thrust washers, etc. * Boron, Magnesium, Calcium, Barium, Phosphorous, and Zinc: These metals are normally from the lubricating oil additive package. They involve detergents, dispersants, extreme-pressure additives, etc. * Chromium (CR): Normally associated with piston rings. High levels can be caused by dirt coming through the air intake or broken rings. * Copper (CU), Tin: These metals are normally from bearings or bushings and valve guides. Oil coolers also can contribute to copper readings along with some oil additives. In a new engine these results will normally be high during break-in, but will decline in a few hundred hours. * Iron (Fe): This can come from many places in the engine such as liners, camshafts, crankshaft, valve train, timing gears, etc. * Lead (Pb): Use of regular gasoline will cause very high test results. Also associated with bearing wear, but fuel source (leaded gasoline) and sampling contamination (use of galvanized containers for sampling) are critical in interpreting this metal. * Silicon (Si): High readings generally indicate dirt or fine sand contamination from a leaking air intake system. This would act as an abrasive, causing excessive wear. Silicon is also used as a anti-foam agent in some oils. * Sodium (Na): High readings of this metal normally are associated with a coolant leak, but can be from an oil additive package.

Include site:www.skylinesaustralia.com with the rest of your search terms in google... oh and have a nice cup of tea and a lie down.

IIRC You want to shift for the maximum torque AT THE WHEELS, so the shift point will depend on how fast the engine torque curve is dropping off, and how much multiplication factor you will loose by shifting up to the next gear. You could plot the wheel torque for each gear (from the engine torque and gearing) then the intersection points will be where you want to shift. I would guess the shift point will be slightly different for each gear (unless that's how gear ratios are chosen) Re Tune, detonation at peak torque just means that not enough timing has been pulled out, so its just a bad tune. There's no reason to avoid chasing max torque. More boost (or greater volumetric efficiency) = less timing.

That would make it run lean, but he's seeing black smoke which indicates he's running rich. +1 for leak.

Which Redline are you using? What were you using before that?

The only issue i see is that if you have a 400kw turbo and only run it at 300kw, it will be much less responsive than if you were to run a 300kw turbo. If it were me I'd just get the maximum power that can be had safely. Dont forget that to consider coolant/oil temperature and gearbox/clutch etc in the equation of what's "safe". You can always have less power by backing off the fun pedal or short shifting.

Re-seat the CAS plug?...Isn't the engine light always on when the ignition is on by the engine not running?

Yes - i have it with no CDs. I installed it years ago and IIRC there was a file with some instructions included. I'll have a look tonight. I think it was about 4 gig all up, so I assume that means its everything.

Yeah i'd say so - the only concern it if it gets cooked, but synths handle heat a lot better as well. If you're paranoid get the oil tested, say after 20,000 and then you'll get an indication of how long it lasts under 800hp of punishment.

Wheel size has no effect on alignment. Some people purposely change their alignment in attempts stop tyres from rubbing, but that's a horrible hack because it means the alignment is not right....

Good synthetic gear oils are incredibly tough. You typically triple the drain interval. So for an ordinary car, go from 100,000kms to 300,000kms. Not sure what that means for your 800hp beast tho.

Good point. Look at the two uni joints - they want to be "out of phase" with each other, or 90 degrees if you look at the orientation of the pins in them.... not sure how to describe that better - am i making sense?.... If the unis are not removable from the tailshaft then you cant have this issue as it wont have been possible to reassemble it incorrectly on a one piece.

IIRC Redline themselves recommend Superlight shockproof for the Getrag, so you're at the other end of the shockproof range. Doesnt necessarily follow that the advice is wrong tho, as we havent discussed use cases. Generally you'd assume that if you werent using the factory fill of synthetic ATF, you'd be using something that's at least somewhat similar, and superlight would be the closest.

First thing id look at is the toe. The more toe out the more "darty" it will be, that is, the more it will want to change direction. IIRC i have 0 toe front and back.

+1 IMO you should attempt to establish the cause of the failure, otherwise you might blow up the next motor... First do the simple/cheap things as Trent mentioned - check the tune file is sensible, check the oil cooler is not plumbed backwards etc. Then if you dont find anything you could pay to have the engine inspected. Obviously you'll need to find someone with the correct expertise and qualifications, and who will write a report that meets the requirements to be used as evidence in court. If the engine shows signs of damage caused by the tune you can then consider taking action against the tuner. Or perhaps you may find your mate stuffed the cam install....

Did your mate get someone else to text him that message, then change the address book entry for that mate to your name to screw with your head? Is the message on your phone? Is your phone jailbroken?

Changing height will throw out the geometry, and typically the standard adjustments don't have enough scope to get you back to a good alignment, but it all depends on how far you lower. Also dont lower the front end too much as it can make it understeer. IIRC you want the distance from the wheel centerline to the top of the guard to be 10mm more at the front than at the back. There were some posts by SydneyKid (IIRC in the group buy section) where he described what was needed based on the ride height.

Nice post. In the future put stuff like this in Tutorials/DIY/FAQ. Hopefully a moderator will move this over there.

Since you say boost is steady at 0.7 (so, lets say its at 0.7 from say 3000-5800) this indicates the boost control is working, but then runs out of ability to bypass enough through the wastegate at 5800. So i'd check that the wastegate flap can open the whole way (if you have a hand pump just connect it to the actuator and watch it move as you add pressure). It may be fouling/getting stuck part way open. Other than that it may simply not be big enough, but usually jap turbos have well sized gates....

Sorry for the hijack, but can you explain why its happening? I thought it was like this; lower voltage -> higher latency -> less petrol through the injector for a given input -> leaner.

Are you sure the thermo's not wired in reverse?