MrStabby

The only issue i see is that if you have a 400kw turbo and only run it at 300kw, it will be much less responsive than if you were to run a 300kw turbo. If it were me I'd just get the maximum power that can be had safely. Dont forget that to consider coolant/oil temperature and gearbox/clutch etc in the equation of what's "safe". You can always have less power by backing off the fun pedal or short shifting.

Re-seat the CAS plug?...Isn't the engine light always on when the ignition is on by the engine not running?

Yes - i have it with no CDs. I installed it years ago and IIRC there was a file with some instructions included. I'll have a look tonight. I think it was about 4 gig all up, so I assume that means its everything.

Yeah i'd say so - the only concern it if it gets cooked, but synths handle heat a lot better as well. If you're paranoid get the oil tested, say after 20,000 and then you'll get an indication of how long it lasts under 800hp of punishment.

Wheel size has no effect on alignment. Some people purposely change their alignment in attempts stop tyres from rubbing, but that's a horrible hack because it means the alignment is not right....

Good synthetic gear oils are incredibly tough. You typically triple the drain interval. So for an ordinary car, go from 100,000kms to 300,000kms. Not sure what that means for your 800hp beast tho.

Good point. Look at the two uni joints - they want to be "out of phase" with each other, or 90 degrees if you look at the orientation of the pins in them.... not sure how to describe that better - am i making sense?.... If the unis are not removable from the tailshaft then you cant have this issue as it wont have been possible to reassemble it incorrectly on a one piece.

IIRC Redline themselves recommend Superlight shockproof for the Getrag, so you're at the other end of the shockproof range. Doesnt necessarily follow that the advice is wrong tho, as we havent discussed use cases. Generally you'd assume that if you werent using the factory fill of synthetic ATF, you'd be using something that's at least somewhat similar, and superlight would be the closest.

First thing id look at is the toe. The more toe out the more "darty" it will be, that is, the more it will want to change direction. IIRC i have 0 toe front and back.

+1 IMO you should attempt to establish the cause of the failure, otherwise you might blow up the next motor... First do the simple/cheap things as Trent mentioned - check the tune file is sensible, check the oil cooler is not plumbed backwards etc. Then if you dont find anything you could pay to have the engine inspected. Obviously you'll need to find someone with the correct expertise and qualifications, and who will write a report that meets the requirements to be used as evidence in court. If the engine shows signs of damage caused by the tune you can then consider taking action against the tuner. Or perhaps you may find your mate stuffed the cam install....

Did your mate get someone else to text him that message, then change the address book entry for that mate to your name to screw with your head? Is the message on your phone? Is your phone jailbroken?

Changing height will throw out the geometry, and typically the standard adjustments don't have enough scope to get you back to a good alignment, but it all depends on how far you lower. Also dont lower the front end too much as it can make it understeer. IIRC you want the distance from the wheel centerline to the top of the guard to be 10mm more at the front than at the back. There were some posts by SydneyKid (IIRC in the group buy section) where he described what was needed based on the ride height.

Nice post. In the future put stuff like this in Tutorials/DIY/FAQ. Hopefully a moderator will move this over there.

Since you say boost is steady at 0.7 (so, lets say its at 0.7 from say 3000-5800) this indicates the boost control is working, but then runs out of ability to bypass enough through the wastegate at 5800. So i'd check that the wastegate flap can open the whole way (if you have a hand pump just connect it to the actuator and watch it move as you add pressure). It may be fouling/getting stuck part way open. Other than that it may simply not be big enough, but usually jap turbos have well sized gates....

Sorry for the hijack, but can you explain why its happening? I thought it was like this; lower voltage -> higher latency -> less petrol through the injector for a given input -> leaner.

Are you sure the thermo's not wired in reverse?

If you try to re-gap non-copper plugs be very careful as you can break the center electrode. WRT gap, if you have a stock motor and your coilpacks are in good condition the leave the gap at the preset 1.1mm. If you get missfire, you'll need to bring it down. Many ppl who've cranked up the boost use 0.8.

Ring up Fair Trading in your state - putting a disclaimer doesn't get them out of their legal responsibilities, so don't be concerned about that. My guess is that it will probably pan out something like this; 1. You'll have to get three quotes on repairing the wheels, and then approach the car cafe to pay for the damage 2. If they refuse, you take them to small claims and they will end up paying in the long run, but it might take some time to get your money back but that's a guess. Follow Fair Trading's advice and you should be ok. Good luck.

They'll all be about the same - 32 GTR is 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm

FWIW R32 GTR attessa is a fuse pull, R33/34 require the front driveshaft pulled because there's a constant preload. Maybe try putting the car on stands and have someone outside watch the front wheels and put it into first ..??

Repco = FAIL. Go to an expert instead

They're stockers, and leaking is common at this age. I have heard its possible to get them repaired, but I just ordered at set of seimens 550s from the states on ebay $550 for the set of 6, but you would need an ECU to do the same. Maybe ring around local fuel injection places and see if you can find someone who can repair them.

Its a lot smaller than the brake booster, lower down and closer to the transmission tunnel - IIRC its probably about 10cms in diameter and yeah it will have the clutch cylinder attached in much the same way as the brake master is attached to the brake booster. Check the vacuum pipe going to it for leaks. If what i've said doesnt match up with what you see let me know and i'll go and have another look - the above is all from memory, and i have a crap memory...

You could also try removing the boost signal to the actuators and give it a very careful run to see if they spool earlier. Boost will keep rising so shut it down as soon as you see boost build so you dont blow the turbos. If they are truly stock turbos you'd want to make sure you didn't push it past 3000rpm. If you're at 4000rpm with still no boost then you can be certain its not a boost controller problem.

Redline produce excellent oils. You only have a problem if you use the wrong one. Listen to T04GTR.