MrStabby

If you try to re-gap non-copper plugs be very careful as you can break the center electrode. WRT gap, if you have a stock motor and your coilpacks are in good condition the leave the gap at the preset 1.1mm. If you get missfire, you'll need to bring it down. Many ppl who've cranked up the boost use 0.8.

Ring up Fair Trading in your state - putting a disclaimer doesn't get them out of their legal responsibilities, so don't be concerned about that. My guess is that it will probably pan out something like this; 1. You'll have to get three quotes on repairing the wheels, and then approach the car cafe to pay for the damage 2. If they refuse, you take them to small claims and they will end up paying in the long run, but it might take some time to get your money back but that's a guess. Follow Fair Trading's advice and you should be ok. Good luck.

They'll all be about the same - 32 GTR is 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm

FWIW R32 GTR attessa is a fuse pull, R33/34 require the front driveshaft pulled because there's a constant preload. Maybe try putting the car on stands and have someone outside watch the front wheels and put it into first ..??

Repco = FAIL. Go to an expert instead

They're stockers, and leaking is common at this age. I have heard its possible to get them repaired, but I just ordered at set of seimens 550s from the states on ebay $550 for the set of 6, but you would need an ECU to do the same. Maybe ring around local fuel injection places and see if you can find someone who can repair them.

Its a lot smaller than the brake booster, lower down and closer to the transmission tunnel - IIRC its probably about 10cms in diameter and yeah it will have the clutch cylinder attached in much the same way as the brake master is attached to the brake booster. Check the vacuum pipe going to it for leaks. If what i've said doesnt match up with what you see let me know and i'll go and have another look - the above is all from memory, and i have a crap memory...

You could also try removing the boost signal to the actuators and give it a very careful run to see if they spool earlier. Boost will keep rising so shut it down as soon as you see boost build so you dont blow the turbos. If they are truly stock turbos you'd want to make sure you didn't push it past 3000rpm. If you're at 4000rpm with still no boost then you can be certain its not a boost controller problem.

Redline produce excellent oils. You only have a problem if you use the wrong one. Listen to T04GTR.

My first guess would be leak somewhere in the clutch booster system (its looks and works like a brake booster, but smaller)

Good to hear its working for you too. FWIW you can export the data and email it to yourself - its the icon in the top left corner when you're in Lap List.

Stock cooler is ok for 350 IIRC. Nismo AFMs will bolt up, if u go Z32 you'll need to stuff around. Also, once you get to high 300s third gear can be a problem

I've got clunks and thuds, and a nismo engine/gearbox mount kit to go in when i find some time. Dont know if it will fix it.... Check out this thread on replacing them; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cv...20&start=20

I'm guessing by chassis he means chassis rails (there are two of them so "both" makes sense, whereas there's only one chassis) They often get bent by some monkey using them as a jacking point. Mine arent too flash - i just ignore it..... So for the OP, i suggest you ignore it.

If you have leaks you expect to be running extra rich, with doesnt gel with "Initially i thought the fueling was insufficient and took it to the dyno to cehck the AFR and all was fine." So - what were the AFRs? Please post up the plot if u have it.

Trent - have you found much difference in detection between those two? Or should I ask - is good knock detection really that difficult? Superficially, it looks like its just a mic and a filter, that perhaps needs some attenuation based on rpm. If that was all it was, I would have thought it would be pretty easy.

The dynos should have an accurate AFR plot, and before you go make sure the run will include knock sensing. IMO you really want to check those things to get some confidence that the tune IS safe. Every car is different and tuner will have made the assumption that everything on your car is working well, and that is something neither of you *know*. You should be more interested that your motor is not going to blow up rather than if it has 11ty billion killawasps

Im using transmax Z in mine. It (and any decent synthetic) handles much higher temperatures than standard fluid.

You may still be wasting money changing at 1000 road ks + track day. Used oil analysis will cost a lost less than a fill of 300V, and it will also gives you information on your engines health as well as the amount of deterioration of the oil. FWIW a Porsche 928S4 owner who had oil tested after 20,000km street kms with a track day or two found the Mobil full synthetic oil was recommended for continued use, that is, still in excellent condition. Factory drain interval is 10,000kms, IIRC the sumps are 7 or 8 liters. It would be interesting to see what 300V in your car is like at your 1000+trackday interval. If its not overheating, it might still be in great condition!

+1, that W number is the cold number, you should focus on the -40 or -50 bit. Also Mobil 0W-40 hasn't got a great HTHS, IMO you'd be better running Delvac 1 5W-40 if you really want to stick to a -40. Since the people that really know stuff say you need a 50, start with Mobil 1 5W-50. Changing before and after track days is likely to be a waste of money unless your Used Oil Analysis says your oil is stuffed, and in that case you should run a better oil, eg go from Mobil 5w-50 (group 4 and 5) to a full ester like Motul 300V (group 5 aka full ester only).

You need a special cable and software, and it plugs into a grey plug next to the fuses under the steering wheel. Maybe you could loan it from someone in your area? Or ask a local nissan specialist workshop to take a look?

There are a whole bunch of compensations that the stock ECU runs, and they overlay extra fuel onto that which the fuel map specifies. Temperature is definitely one of them, and yeah it will richen the mixtures by a variable amount depending on temperature. (All IIRC). It would be worth getting CONSULT on it to check that everything looks normal.

No its the other way, z32 keeps vct r32 doesn't.

Wow - why are you changing gear oil so often?

IMO there's no need, the high load high rpm cells will be right for the high performance and the low load low rpm cells will be right for max economy. You choose what you get via the right foot! If you wanted two different tunes you'd have to get the nistune software and a consult cable and install the tune each time you wanted to change. EDIT: Oh, and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...E8-t332217.html