MrStabby

My first guess would be leak somewhere in the clutch booster system (its looks and works like a brake booster, but smaller)

Good to hear its working for you too. FWIW you can export the data and email it to yourself - its the icon in the top left corner when you're in Lap List.

Stock cooler is ok for 350 IIRC. Nismo AFMs will bolt up, if u go Z32 you'll need to stuff around. Also, once you get to high 300s third gear can be a problem

I've got clunks and thuds, and a nismo engine/gearbox mount kit to go in when i find some time. Dont know if it will fix it.... Check out this thread on replacing them; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Cv...20&start=20

I'm guessing by chassis he means chassis rails (there are two of them so "both" makes sense, whereas there's only one chassis) They often get bent by some monkey using them as a jacking point. Mine arent too flash - i just ignore it..... So for the OP, i suggest you ignore it.

If you have leaks you expect to be running extra rich, with doesnt gel with "Initially i thought the fueling was insufficient and took it to the dyno to cehck the AFR and all was fine." So - what were the AFRs? Please post up the plot if u have it.

Trent - have you found much difference in detection between those two? Or should I ask - is good knock detection really that difficult? Superficially, it looks like its just a mic and a filter, that perhaps needs some attenuation based on rpm. If that was all it was, I would have thought it would be pretty easy.

The dynos should have an accurate AFR plot, and before you go make sure the run will include knock sensing. IMO you really want to check those things to get some confidence that the tune IS safe. Every car is different and tuner will have made the assumption that everything on your car is working well, and that is something neither of you *know*. You should be more interested that your motor is not going to blow up rather than if it has 11ty billion killawasps

Im using transmax Z in mine. It (and any decent synthetic) handles much higher temperatures than standard fluid.

You may still be wasting money changing at 1000 road ks + track day. Used oil analysis will cost a lost less than a fill of 300V, and it will also gives you information on your engines health as well as the amount of deterioration of the oil. FWIW a Porsche 928S4 owner who had oil tested after 20,000km street kms with a track day or two found the Mobil full synthetic oil was recommended for continued use, that is, still in excellent condition. Factory drain interval is 10,000kms, IIRC the sumps are 7 or 8 liters. It would be interesting to see what 300V in your car is like at your 1000+trackday interval. If its not overheating, it might still be in great condition!

+1, that W number is the cold number, you should focus on the -40 or -50 bit. Also Mobil 0W-40 hasn't got a great HTHS, IMO you'd be better running Delvac 1 5W-40 if you really want to stick to a -40. Since the people that really know stuff say you need a 50, start with Mobil 1 5W-50. Changing before and after track days is likely to be a waste of money unless your Used Oil Analysis says your oil is stuffed, and in that case you should run a better oil, eg go from Mobil 5w-50 (group 4 and 5) to a full ester like Motul 300V (group 5 aka full ester only).

You need a special cable and software, and it plugs into a grey plug next to the fuses under the steering wheel. Maybe you could loan it from someone in your area? Or ask a local nissan specialist workshop to take a look?

There are a whole bunch of compensations that the stock ECU runs, and they overlay extra fuel onto that which the fuel map specifies. Temperature is definitely one of them, and yeah it will richen the mixtures by a variable amount depending on temperature. (All IIRC). It would be worth getting CONSULT on it to check that everything looks normal.

No its the other way, z32 keeps vct r32 doesn't.

Wow - why are you changing gear oil so often?

IMO there's no need, the high load high rpm cells will be right for the high performance and the low load low rpm cells will be right for max economy. You choose what you get via the right foot! If you wanted two different tunes you'd have to get the nistune software and a consult cable and install the tune each time you wanted to change. EDIT: Oh, and http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...E8-t332217.html

C'mon peeps we need more to make this happen. Remember, tuning gets you babes! Who's in?

I imagine the metal one would be more durable. The photo is from rhdjapan.com if you cant see the watermark in the photo well. I've bought from them a few times with no problem. No doubt you could get the part from anywhere that sells cusco tho.

When you put the shifter back in with the new bush the outside of the bush should be a snug fit into the hold that it sits in. Also cusco make metal (brass? bronze?) replacements but IIRC they're $30-40.

Usually reservoir is all low pressure, so you dont need to get anything special made up. I got a high pressure section made up by Enzed, but you could also try Pirtek

Agree most likely to be fuel pump dying, but don't forget to change the filter and check the vacuum/boost signal to the regulator. Remember when checking the voltage at the fuel pump that the control module does not supply the full 14v at idle. IIRC its about 9v. I dont know when it switches to full power tho.

If it were mine i'd have a tuner run it on the dyno to check that knock levels and injector duty on the current setup is safe. If the motor is truly at that kms and has been well looked (neither of which you *know*) then 330 should be ok if you keep it off the limiter. Other things you might need over the injectors and pump is AFMs and clutch. Thinking about leaving it at 300 if you're concerned about the engine - the lower the power the longer it will live, you choose how much risk you want to accept. Read the oil sticky..... but IMO you want a fully synthetic 5W-40 or maybe even a 5W-50. Im using Mobil 1 5W-50 because its cheap and easy to get, would prefer a 5W-40 tho. Change at 5000kms. Overfill by 1lt if you're going to the track.

My 2c. If I were starting again i'd have a preference for something which had already had the turbos done, that is, stockers rebuilt with steel wheels or -7 (aka R34 N1) or -9 (aka HKS GT-SS). The stock ceramics will blow at some stage, and may take your motor with them as they go. Also, its a big job to change them. Since I bought my car, i pulled out the OS Giken twin plate which was a PITA in traffic (my GTR is my daily driver) and my single plate organic is easy to use and copes with the 300kws the car has now. I also installed softer suspension, tho its probably still too stiff for street is probably about right for track. The car is very streetable now. Other than that, make sure you dont spend all your money. Its 20 years old after all so you want some money in the bank for maintenance.

Lots of good suggestions above. Also, did he buy new actuators or at least verify they are working in unison? You could have one turbo running flat out (then blowing) while the other is cruising. Also, i'd check the oil delivery is within spec. Also, could have been a bad rebuild....

Great news! Let us know who the tuner is when you get it back and have confirmed that you're happy with it.