MrStabby

C'mon peeps we need more to make this happen. Remember, tuning gets you babes! Who's in?

I imagine the metal one would be more durable. The photo is from rhdjapan.com if you cant see the watermark in the photo well. I've bought from them a few times with no problem. No doubt you could get the part from anywhere that sells cusco tho.

When you put the shifter back in with the new bush the outside of the bush should be a snug fit into the hold that it sits in. Also cusco make metal (brass? bronze?) replacements but IIRC they're $30-40.

Usually reservoir is all low pressure, so you dont need to get anything special made up. I got a high pressure section made up by Enzed, but you could also try Pirtek

Agree most likely to be fuel pump dying, but don't forget to change the filter and check the vacuum/boost signal to the regulator. Remember when checking the voltage at the fuel pump that the control module does not supply the full 14v at idle. IIRC its about 9v. I dont know when it switches to full power tho.

If it were mine i'd have a tuner run it on the dyno to check that knock levels and injector duty on the current setup is safe. If the motor is truly at that kms and has been well looked (neither of which you *know*) then 330 should be ok if you keep it off the limiter. Other things you might need over the injectors and pump is AFMs and clutch. Thinking about leaving it at 300 if you're concerned about the engine - the lower the power the longer it will live, you choose how much risk you want to accept. Read the oil sticky..... but IMO you want a fully synthetic 5W-40 or maybe even a 5W-50. Im using Mobil 1 5W-50 because its cheap and easy to get, would prefer a 5W-40 tho. Change at 5000kms. Overfill by 1lt if you're going to the track.

My 2c. If I were starting again i'd have a preference for something which had already had the turbos done, that is, stockers rebuilt with steel wheels or -7 (aka R34 N1) or -9 (aka HKS GT-SS). The stock ceramics will blow at some stage, and may take your motor with them as they go. Also, its a big job to change them. Since I bought my car, i pulled out the OS Giken twin plate which was a PITA in traffic (my GTR is my daily driver) and my single plate organic is easy to use and copes with the 300kws the car has now. I also installed softer suspension, tho its probably still too stiff for street is probably about right for track. The car is very streetable now. Other than that, make sure you dont spend all your money. Its 20 years old after all so you want some money in the bank for maintenance.

Lots of good suggestions above. Also, did he buy new actuators or at least verify they are working in unison? You could have one turbo running flat out (then blowing) while the other is cruising. Also, i'd check the oil delivery is within spec. Also, could have been a bad rebuild....

Great news! Let us know who the tuner is when you get it back and have confirmed that you're happy with it.

My guess would be regulator (which usually contains the brush pack), rectifier and bearings. The stator or rotor could fail but I imagine that's very rare. If it were me I wouldn't touch it until it dies, after all, if you're not going to replace everything else that could cause the car not to run what have you achieved? For example, i would replace all the rubber coolant hoses first, because they're getting old and my guess is they would be more likely to fail than the alternator.

I have no direct experience, but the common way mentioned on this site is to swap the entire bellhousing. Try searching again with that word.

mad is correct. The ECU has a map with rpm on one axis then "load" (basically AFM reading) on the other axis, and adds fuel based on what the map says. So when the airflow goes up (say if you up the boost) you hit a different cell. The standard map is setup such that if you're outside the cells that the factory expected to see, then the implication is that something has gone wrong, and therefore its a good idea to try to protect the motor. So those cells run a lot of fuel and very little timing to that end.

During the compression stroke it will loose the air/fuel mix out the same crack, so that wont cause knock. Only problem i see is that if too much coolant were drawn in and the engine hydro locked. Probably couldnt happen tho - when you look at piston speeds and how heavy (and thus resistant to motion) coolant is. I'm guessing...

If you have pulled 8 degrees out it will be a lot slower... so does it feel sluggish after that change? Also, look for stuff like loose starter motor. The rattling can set off the knock sensor.

You will have to loose response with -5s, bigger turbos will spool later. The question is; how much difference is it, and is it worth paying for a 3lt bottom end if you're only going to run SS's. Since you already have the SSs you could try it out - it would be interesting to see how it went. Next step up is -5s, and as you've said you'll really be wanting a stronger gearset if you go to high 300kws.

Yep - to elaborate, the oil makes up the piston to cylinder clearance, like a ring would, so; - if the compression comes back, your rings are stuffed and top end is good - if it doesn't come back its top end, ie valve/head gasket/cracked head... OR both top end and rings....

Yeah could be ignitor or wiring for that pack - have you checked continuity with a multimeter? Also, you might be able to repair the ignitor READ THIS THREAD

Yep 2 so double it - they work in parallel. When you say $60 that's second hand right? I'd say most ppl would want second hand AFMs on a big power build.

R888s are R spec, KU36 are S spec, so i'm not sure comparing the two is that enlightening. IMO its better to choose what sort of tyre you want then compare the options is that class. If you're going to have two sets of rims its a no-brainer to go R spec for the track rims.

Have you sat in a 300? - not much headroom. And if you want to track it, dont forget about how much more headroom you'll need for the helmet.

Heh - i'm running 305kw with the stock 32 air box, so yeah that tuner is a muppet. (though i did take the plastic snorkel that sits on the outside of the engine bay near the headlight off). Can you please PM me the tuner's name? Also, if you don't want to iterate through tuners to find someone good, just go straight to CRD or Unigroup Or come to the Unigroup tuning day and learn to do it yourself. You might even be able to have your car used for demo so it gets a tune at the same time!

Not hearing it is and indication it might be the problem, as it might mean its always on... try disconnecting it to see if the load disappears. Finding where to disconnect it might be tricky, you'll need to follow the wires. IIRC there's a plug but on mine it was near impossible to disconnect.

Hmm air con clutch *should* be run from a fused circuit - can you hear it engage/disengage as you turn the aircon on and off?

Yeah true on both points. I dont know how to interpret the iphone measurement - he should state the wheel centerline to guard since its what gets used here. If he has a full leb kit then all bets are off. Pics?

People who want to fix crappy handling as well, for example, if you're into track instead of rice. I have all the extra adjustable arms/bushes (so could get the basic camber/castor/toe correct), but raising the front from 335 to 350 (ie the 350fr/340rr recommended on this forum) made the car both more comfortable and handle better. Something to do with the more esoteric stuff like roll centers I guess but I haven't read up on that, so I don't understand it. All i know is - the 350/340 recommendation came from people I respect, and it worked for me.