MrStabby

My guess would be regulator (which usually contains the brush pack), rectifier and bearings. The stator or rotor could fail but I imagine that's very rare. If it were me I wouldn't touch it until it dies, after all, if you're not going to replace everything else that could cause the car not to run what have you achieved? For example, i would replace all the rubber coolant hoses first, because they're getting old and my guess is they would be more likely to fail than the alternator.

I have no direct experience, but the common way mentioned on this site is to swap the entire bellhousing. Try searching again with that word.

mad is correct. The ECU has a map with rpm on one axis then "load" (basically AFM reading) on the other axis, and adds fuel based on what the map says. So when the airflow goes up (say if you up the boost) you hit a different cell. The standard map is setup such that if you're outside the cells that the factory expected to see, then the implication is that something has gone wrong, and therefore its a good idea to try to protect the motor. So those cells run a lot of fuel and very little timing to that end.

During the compression stroke it will loose the air/fuel mix out the same crack, so that wont cause knock. Only problem i see is that if too much coolant were drawn in and the engine hydro locked. Probably couldnt happen tho - when you look at piston speeds and how heavy (and thus resistant to motion) coolant is. I'm guessing...

If you have pulled 8 degrees out it will be a lot slower... so does it feel sluggish after that change? Also, look for stuff like loose starter motor. The rattling can set off the knock sensor.

You will have to loose response with -5s, bigger turbos will spool later. The question is; how much difference is it, and is it worth paying for a 3lt bottom end if you're only going to run SS's. Since you already have the SSs you could try it out - it would be interesting to see how it went. Next step up is -5s, and as you've said you'll really be wanting a stronger gearset if you go to high 300kws.

Yep - to elaborate, the oil makes up the piston to cylinder clearance, like a ring would, so; - if the compression comes back, your rings are stuffed and top end is good - if it doesn't come back its top end, ie valve/head gasket/cracked head... OR both top end and rings....

Yeah could be ignitor or wiring for that pack - have you checked continuity with a multimeter? Also, you might be able to repair the ignitor READ THIS THREAD

Yep 2 so double it - they work in parallel. When you say $60 that's second hand right? I'd say most ppl would want second hand AFMs on a big power build.

R888s are R spec, KU36 are S spec, so i'm not sure comparing the two is that enlightening. IMO its better to choose what sort of tyre you want then compare the options is that class. If you're going to have two sets of rims its a no-brainer to go R spec for the track rims.

Have you sat in a 300? - not much headroom. And if you want to track it, dont forget about how much more headroom you'll need for the helmet.

Heh - i'm running 305kw with the stock 32 air box, so yeah that tuner is a muppet. (though i did take the plastic snorkel that sits on the outside of the engine bay near the headlight off). Can you please PM me the tuner's name? Also, if you don't want to iterate through tuners to find someone good, just go straight to CRD or Unigroup Or come to the Unigroup tuning day and learn to do it yourself. You might even be able to have your car used for demo so it gets a tune at the same time!

Not hearing it is and indication it might be the problem, as it might mean its always on... try disconnecting it to see if the load disappears. Finding where to disconnect it might be tricky, you'll need to follow the wires. IIRC there's a plug but on mine it was near impossible to disconnect.

Hmm air con clutch *should* be run from a fused circuit - can you hear it engage/disengage as you turn the aircon on and off?

Yeah true on both points. I dont know how to interpret the iphone measurement - he should state the wheel centerline to guard since its what gets used here. If he has a full leb kit then all bets are off. Pics?

People who want to fix crappy handling as well, for example, if you're into track instead of rice. I have all the extra adjustable arms/bushes (so could get the basic camber/castor/toe correct), but raising the front from 335 to 350 (ie the 350fr/340rr recommended on this forum) made the car both more comfortable and handle better. Something to do with the more esoteric stuff like roll centers I guess but I haven't read up on that, so I don't understand it. All i know is - the 350/340 recommendation came from people I respect, and it worked for me.

I like EBC pads so IMO you should persist with working on the installation rather than trying new pads. Take the mindset that the installation is not right, and work from that perspective. The factory shims require a special grease to be used with them, they're not made to be used clean by themselves, so its not surprising they didnt work. It sounds like you have the backing shims, but what about the corner ones? FWIW when i had factory calipers i used the shims with the red goo (not the grease) and got it silent. There was still a little grease between the two plates tho, so it was piston -> goo -> first plate -> grease -> second plate -> pad (or maybe there was goo between the second plate and the pad as well). I did a bit of trial and error to get it right, i should have just read the workshop manual.... There are a bunch of complicated and interconnected reasons you can get squeal - its not a simple thing.

There's two boots; 1. Gearbox to shifter 2. Body to shifter (over the top of #1) On mine 1 is broken, and 2 is loose, so i've put a cable tie around the top of 2. Might as well made sure they're both in tact and airtight.

What anti-squeal stuff did you use? I have EBC gold (so a more track oriented pad) and have no squeal.

Interesting - so do you think the trigger for sending the "its legitimate...signed carsales" email is when the ad gets pulled? If so, thats clever. Indeed, your message is a valuable service to the community! The more education on the tricks scammers use the less effective they are.

They were pretty bad - Here is the thread. The bottom of the third page shows my ones, they don't have the slot all the way to the edge (it stops just short). I dont know if they've updated the design since then. If you're not tracking it it will be fine.

So, you removed 8mm spacers to create more space for new tyres you're putting on soon, so we expect you've now got an extra 8mm of tyre to guard clearance. What are you using the Cusco arms for? More adjustability? That is, you cant get the alignment you want with the factory kit? If they're adjustables, you should have adjusted them to the same length as the factory arms before you installed them, so they dont screw up your alignment as Kinks said.

My guess is that its more that the slot is almost perpendicular to the edge, rather that the fact that it runs right to the edge (but agreed that is also undesirable) The RDA dimpled/slotted/gold ones run the slot all the way to the edge, but the slot is the conventional 45 degrees or so to the edge. They've been ok for me, unlike the DBA4000s.

The cross drilled that came on my car cracked at the track, as did DBA4000s with the retarded slot design.... Very surprised you cant get slotted for the fronts - I would have guessed that your RS would have had GTR brakes or similar. The 33 and 34 GTRs had the same sized rotors. Do you have brembo calipers?

You could either change the springs or get a suspension shop to "reset" your current springs to be longer. If you find the current ones to soft or too hard then going for new ones will give you the opportunity to choose a different rate. Fulcrum suspension are the Tein distributors in Australia, so it might be worth giving them a call. BTW There's no such thing as height adjustable coils (springs?) just height adjustable coilovers, which is what you have.