MrStabby

I cant remember I bought it new from a forum member (Mario? Marco?) who was selling a few different types 3 years ago, and it was only rated for 240kw, but its holding fine. Give NPC a ring and see what they can do.

I agree that Coppermix is probably extravagance on that power level. I'm running a ~$500 organic single with 305kw. IMO track work is not a big concern for clutches - drag on the other hand, is brutal. For my next clutch i'm thinking NPC single.

Assuming the 200 comes with brake ducting, is it all there? Out of the pads you list that i know about, most aren't suitable and only the AIRMs are possibilities for being much use at the track and even then they are a compromise street/track pad. Try a proper track pad - QFM Comp9s, Ferodo DS3000s, EBC yellow etc.

This is how it works - you only notice which end has less grip when you push it to the limit. +1 for stock front sway bar. Or if the rear is adjustable as well, make it stiffer. The outer holes are soft, inner holes are hard.

Im not except to get it home. Had the headlights on and I clutched in as much as I could to get the engine back to idle... Interesting about the ABS - cant understand how that could cause overcharge but i'm not good with electrics. Also reminds me that I also a headlight appeared dead then came one so i guess i'll just check what i can with it in case its related somehow.

Ive only used the dash gauge so far - 18 volts at any rpm much above idle. I will check at the battery with a multimeter for confirmation. I thought i was going crazy (well, crazier) after checking two times that i didnt have the wipers on the fast setting.....

After trawling teh interwebz, it appears that overcharging can occur if; 1. The regulator is stuffed (duh) 2. The battery is stuffed, eg its dropped a cell 3. There's a bad engine to body earth Since my alternator was fully rebuilt less than a year ago and its a pain to pull out, i want to have some confidence its the regulator before i head down that path. So - to check the battery I will disconnect and check the voltage with a multimeter. Each cell is 2.1 volts, and the battery should be 11.8 (uncharged) to 12.6 (fully charged) so if its 10.5 or less i know its the battery. Of course since it starts well so I know the battery is fine from that....and its newish too..... How do i check the earth? Is it as simple as checking the resistance between body and engine with a multimeter?

Works for me no problems at all. I didnt have a satnav so the cradle has a dual use for me. I have also used racechrono with a nokia bluetooth GPS before i got the iphone and it worked well, but was less convenient. Also, GPS based means you can get speeds/cornering Gs etc that you cant get from a beacon.

If you want cheap, then iphone app is the way to go. I use HarryLapTimer with the Tomtom cradle (on 3GS). Other option is to jailbreak and use a bluetooth GPS. Using an iphone with the internal GPS only is a waste of time, as you found.

Moo - is that info from the shop manual? My memory is that you unplug the electric connector to the AAC to stop the compensation, then adjust the idle to where you want it, then reconnect.

IMO This thread should be about what causes plugs to foul, not what material they are made of..... AFAIK fouling is about tune (including injector spray quality), heat range and usage. Blind elk is on the right track, as is the OP for trying going back to the original heat range and taking out the colder plugs. If you want to keep using the colder plugs you could use the old Ferrari mechanic "torino tuneup", that is, take it for a thrash. Or change the tune. FWIW CRD didnt use coppers in my car and they're lasting well so far (over 20,000kms). YMMV.

The only shop that's at all close that i've heard of getting recommended on this forum is tunehouse marrickville. You should search in the nsw forum BTW.

Not where Guilt is...Georgia, Eastern Europe.

Different part numbers at http://clutchfinder.exedy.com.au/ but i have NFI

No responses here, so maybe try the motorsport forum?

First thing i'd do is check that closed loop control is working correctly via CONSULT (use the nistune cable and software if you have it) The o2 sensor readout should flick back and forth during light load as the ECU changes to the fuel delivery hunting for stoichiometric. Generally the tuner mostly tunes the full load cells (which dont use closed loop). If you're babying it around the econ shouldnt change much at all AFAIK. If closed loop is not working it could be o2 sensor, or the tuner forgot to turn it back on (IIRC there's a number of different ways to toggle closed loop with nistune)

What makes you think that its staying in 2wd? What dash lights were you expecting?

Where did you get the seals from? Are they just generic o-rings or the real custom seals?

Original unit leaked badly, got another very clean looking one and it leaks a bit. IMO ABS is a good thing. On the street you will encounter different conditions - its not all about driver skill.

AFAIK if there's no boost getting to the actuators then yeah boost should keep climbing unless the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flap is enough to overcome the spring in the actuator. If its only getting to 9psi then replace the actuators or tighten them up if they happen to be adjustables. As an additional check some also fix the wastegates shut (maybe clamps on the actuator rods??) then VERY CAREFULLY run it up to verify it will go past 9psi. Again, the boost should just keep climbing so make sure you back off once its past 9 psi so you dont break something expensive.... Summary - 9psi with disconnected actuator boost signal then more than 9 psi with wastegates fixed shut = stuffed wastegate actuators. Someone will correct me if i'm wrong.....

Point taken. I was thinking that since the 280 figure is a good choice for the bottom end then the injectors he has now are fine as they should still have a little headroom at that level. Looks like you're looking at if from what would suit the capabilities of the turbo. So, for an ideally matched setup, he could get a smaller turbo (for less lag), or bigger injectors and built bottom end (for more power with reliability) or just bigger injectors and some cash in savings in case the engine pops.

They should be fine for 280 on 98 - thats about when stock gtr 440s run out of puff isn't it?

+1. That would make the most sense. Your tuner wouldn't have bothered to tune cells that the car wont see in normal operation, so those cells are probably on defaults, which would be conservative (less timing, more fuel).

If you have a boost leak the air measured by the AFM will be more than what is actually being pushed into the motor (as the leak is downstream of the AFM) and therefore you get rich mixture. Vacuum and boost are carried in the same lines at different times depending on what the motor is doing. Did you fix the hiss? No point in doing anything else until that is sorted.

Yeah the electronics do some sort of compensation, so you unplug, adjust idle, reconnect. I'm guessing without it connected you could expect the idle to be too drop low when the air con is on?? Or maybe when its cold?