MrStabby

What makes you think that its staying in 2wd? What dash lights were you expecting?

Where did you get the seals from? Are they just generic o-rings or the real custom seals?

Original unit leaked badly, got another very clean looking one and it leaks a bit. IMO ABS is a good thing. On the street you will encounter different conditions - its not all about driver skill.

AFAIK if there's no boost getting to the actuators then yeah boost should keep climbing unless the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flap is enough to overcome the spring in the actuator. If its only getting to 9psi then replace the actuators or tighten them up if they happen to be adjustables. As an additional check some also fix the wastegates shut (maybe clamps on the actuator rods??) then VERY CAREFULLY run it up to verify it will go past 9psi. Again, the boost should just keep climbing so make sure you back off once its past 9 psi so you dont break something expensive.... Summary - 9psi with disconnected actuator boost signal then more than 9 psi with wastegates fixed shut = stuffed wastegate actuators. Someone will correct me if i'm wrong.....

Point taken. I was thinking that since the 280 figure is a good choice for the bottom end then the injectors he has now are fine as they should still have a little headroom at that level. Looks like you're looking at if from what would suit the capabilities of the turbo. So, for an ideally matched setup, he could get a smaller turbo (for less lag), or bigger injectors and built bottom end (for more power with reliability) or just bigger injectors and some cash in savings in case the engine pops.

They should be fine for 280 on 98 - thats about when stock gtr 440s run out of puff isn't it?

+1. That would make the most sense. Your tuner wouldn't have bothered to tune cells that the car wont see in normal operation, so those cells are probably on defaults, which would be conservative (less timing, more fuel).

If you have a boost leak the air measured by the AFM will be more than what is actually being pushed into the motor (as the leak is downstream of the AFM) and therefore you get rich mixture. Vacuum and boost are carried in the same lines at different times depending on what the motor is doing. Did you fix the hiss? No point in doing anything else until that is sorted.

Yeah the electronics do some sort of compensation, so you unplug, adjust idle, reconnect. I'm guessing without it connected you could expect the idle to be too drop low when the air con is on?? Or maybe when its cold?

You want the idler and tensioner done as well as the water pump when you do the belt (assuming 25s are like 26s). IIRC some also do cam seals but i have no idea about the details of that. The Kudos kit looks good it has pump/idler/tensioner and also mentions crank and cam seals.

The HD is an organic - so it will be more driver friendly than cushion button. I guess you meant that cushion button is friendlier than regular button??

I've used my 32 GTR as a daily. I did take out the twin plate giken clutch that it came with and replaced it with an organic single plate to make it comfortable in stop start traffic, but other than that it was fine. Some will come with jap suspension which is often too hard. Reliability wise, turbos are a maintenance item at 100,000kms and they can trash the motor when they let go if you're unlucky, so its worth changing them to -7s or -9s if that hasnt been done already. As mentioned old coolant lines can go but generally they're pretty good for 20 year old cars. Agree with pretty much everything others have said.

Fan will be significantly less effective without a shroud, as air will take the easiest path, and that will be from its periphery rather than thru the radiator OP - I slotted the top radiator mounts so that the rad is pulled as far away from the fan as possible, instead of flopping around. I then secured the shroud to the rad and it doesnt touch.

Bumpity.....

rb26 balancer bolts have some crazy torque spec, in the order of 3 times the rb25 spec. So yeah, its going to be tight.

I got EBC yellows on the front of mine - no noise at all. QFM A1RMs on the back occasionally squeal a little bit, but they're cheapies and i just chucked them in and didnt take much care with the install. I'm sure if I did it properly they'd be silent as well. You just need to take more care with performance pads.

Agree that in the scheme of things $400 is nothing. But if you only ever want 300kw then get the -7s and save the 400. The -7s will have the spool of the -9s with the price of the -5s, its just that they're not as good as the -9s if you want to push past ~320kws. I'm running -7s at 16.5psi and getting 305kw.

Do yourself a favour and read the rb20 turbo upgrade sticky above. You should know all you need to after that.

Yeah AFMs like injectors are good for 280-300kw so changing them now is a waste of money. Save up for turbos and do them before anything, you're on borrowed time. My stock turbs let go at 13.5 psi, probably 120,000kms old. If you have to do ECU now, price up Nistune as an alternative to powerfc.

The springs sit on a pair of adjuster rings that allow you to raise/lower the car with some special tools called C spanners. If the rings aren't stuck its quite easy to adjust the height. You should get the car aligned after you change the height, and for optimal handling you should get it corner weighted as well.

Do you have the anti-squeal hardware installed? If not, get some and install it. Use search - this has been discussed before.

You probably have about 200kw at the wheels now. A powerfc + tune will get you maybe 230kw. Stock injectors are good for 280kw so don't change them. If the turbos are stockers they wont last at 1 bar forever, and when they do let go they can trash the motor if you're unlucky....

From previous posts it look like good ones are $50. I'll pay more if it has all the clips.

If they are a different size, you need to put that size and latency settings into your ECU, then get it checked on the dyno. If they're just new replacements of what you already have, you dont need to do anything.

I did it years ago in mine - dont remember there being anything to worry about, but those clips on the top do look like they need to be released. Are they the same on the bottom?