MrStabby

You want the idler and tensioner done as well as the water pump when you do the belt (assuming 25s are like 26s). IIRC some also do cam seals but i have no idea about the details of that. The Kudos kit looks good it has pump/idler/tensioner and also mentions crank and cam seals.

The HD is an organic - so it will be more driver friendly than cushion button. I guess you meant that cushion button is friendlier than regular button??

I've used my 32 GTR as a daily. I did take out the twin plate giken clutch that it came with and replaced it with an organic single plate to make it comfortable in stop start traffic, but other than that it was fine. Some will come with jap suspension which is often too hard. Reliability wise, turbos are a maintenance item at 100,000kms and they can trash the motor when they let go if you're unlucky, so its worth changing them to -7s or -9s if that hasnt been done already. As mentioned old coolant lines can go but generally they're pretty good for 20 year old cars. Agree with pretty much everything others have said.

Fan will be significantly less effective without a shroud, as air will take the easiest path, and that will be from its periphery rather than thru the radiator OP - I slotted the top radiator mounts so that the rad is pulled as far away from the fan as possible, instead of flopping around. I then secured the shroud to the rad and it doesnt touch.

Bumpity.....

rb26 balancer bolts have some crazy torque spec, in the order of 3 times the rb25 spec. So yeah, its going to be tight.

I got EBC yellows on the front of mine - no noise at all. QFM A1RMs on the back occasionally squeal a little bit, but they're cheapies and i just chucked them in and didnt take much care with the install. I'm sure if I did it properly they'd be silent as well. You just need to take more care with performance pads.

Agree that in the scheme of things $400 is nothing. But if you only ever want 300kw then get the -7s and save the 400. The -7s will have the spool of the -9s with the price of the -5s, its just that they're not as good as the -9s if you want to push past ~320kws. I'm running -7s at 16.5psi and getting 305kw.

Do yourself a favour and read the rb20 turbo upgrade sticky above. You should know all you need to after that.

Yeah AFMs like injectors are good for 280-300kw so changing them now is a waste of money. Save up for turbos and do them before anything, you're on borrowed time. My stock turbs let go at 13.5 psi, probably 120,000kms old. If you have to do ECU now, price up Nistune as an alternative to powerfc.

The springs sit on a pair of adjuster rings that allow you to raise/lower the car with some special tools called C spanners. If the rings aren't stuck its quite easy to adjust the height. You should get the car aligned after you change the height, and for optimal handling you should get it corner weighted as well.

Do you have the anti-squeal hardware installed? If not, get some and install it. Use search - this has been discussed before.

You probably have about 200kw at the wheels now. A powerfc + tune will get you maybe 230kw. Stock injectors are good for 280kw so don't change them. If the turbos are stockers they wont last at 1 bar forever, and when they do let go they can trash the motor if you're unlucky....

From previous posts it look like good ones are $50. I'll pay more if it has all the clips.

If they are a different size, you need to put that size and latency settings into your ECU, then get it checked on the dyno. If they're just new replacements of what you already have, you dont need to do anything.

I did it years ago in mine - dont remember there being anything to worry about, but those clips on the top do look like they need to be released. Are they the same on the bottom?

I got pedal pressure but it leaked worse than when I pulled it apart. You might have better luck, but IMO some of the seals from the list arent quite the right size even if you leave the shape question aside, and IIRC there were a few missing from that list. I checked it as soon as it was reinstalled and bled, and pumping the pedal hard was enough to see the telltale wetness. I bought another second hander that looked good, but it also has a small leak. I'm thinking that the ABS manufacturer might be the best place to get seals from, if they're still available. I would like to have another shot at rebuilding, but I lost motivation...

I got a cheapo organic for IIRC ~$400 and its holding 300kw. If i were go buy something now i'd probably go NPC. Organic is nice for street use.

I tried rebuilding my ABS using the EPDM o ring list that was on this forum. I had a big fail with a lot of leakage. Most of the original seals have custom cross-sections (few are orings) and i very much doubt that it would be possible to get it properly sealed unless you can get the real seals. But - if you can get a set of proper seals please let us know!

I'm not going to add much to the discussion as i cant quote legislation, but i have heard two opinions; 1. You have to inform them 2. You dont have to inform them if you are making the recording to protect your legal interests. And IIRC the concern is more around making the material available to others - ie if you keep it private, you have a different status than if you make it public. Perhaps its that making it public outside a courtroom rules out the protecting legal interests defense. Another point is - the psychological impact on the officer if he knows he's under surveillance. It may well be worth informing him so he will change his behavior. Of course you'd want to be well informed about if he can refuse the surveillance or not first. My mate is in a motorcycle club that got a legal expert along to run a presentation to the club about motorists rights.

IIRC counterweighted flywheels are used with engines who's cranks arent fully counterweighted, so its just a different design where the crank/flywheel combo is balanced even though the components arent. The counterweight is just meat in the flywheel its not a separate piece. RB cranks are fully balanced so the there's no counterweighting on the flywheel. All AFAIK - i'm no expert.

wikipedia: "the duty cycle is the fraction of time that a system is in an "active" state". No, the frequency will be comparable to RPM (half the rpm?), the duty cycle will be dependent on load. To calculate fuel consumption you will need injector flow rate, injector open and close latency difference, duty cycle and car speed. I think.

AND if you did get a defect you would probably be able to follow that up with a complaint. You could even politely ask the officer on what grounds he was defecting you and if they weren't able to offer a reasonable case for it, you could suggest that you will make a complaint.... Of course, you need to be careful if you're going to play hardball.

The evolution seems to have been; - carburettor - single point/throttle body injection - mutli point batch injection - multi point sequential injection - direct multi point sequential injection

There's been threads on this before. Think about the gearing - 34s have different diff ratios.