MrStabby

DBA4000s can crack with track work due to what appears to be a flawed slot design. Search for the thread - it has pictures.....

My 2c. Injector duty will give you a very accurate idea of fuel consumption. The fuel pressure regulator means that the injectors will see the same pressure differential across the tip, so flow rate should be pretty much the same regardless of vacuum/boost. All other stuff is not relevant AFAICT.

Nistune is probably a better long term option than a re-map - and should probably only be about $200 more.

As with any coilover it depends on what spring rate you get. You probably want 4fr/3rr or 6fr/4rr for a decent ride.

AFAIK you'd only want to add rear toe in if you needed to deal with rear end instability - otherwise you'd leave it alone. Toe in = reduced tendency to change direction. Dont forget to check out the handling articles sticky above.

Reasons not to use rose joints on street car; - more NVH (ie harsher) - shorter life than bushes - almost certainly illegal

I got a full rebuild for $380.... did the R&R myself, but its not that difficult. The regulator was inside the alternator on my one.

I think Elite was making the point that you appear to have a piggyback, not full a ECU. Its a shame they call both products F-Con which makes you think the piggyback you have is a top piece of kit, when it isnt. Just like PowerFC != SAFC. Anyways all that is offtopic.

+2, the "full gtr body kit,18" wheels,loud zorst and a big dirty front mount sticking out" couldnt have anything to do with the attention at all....

FWIW Teflon's manufacturer (3M) states that it offers no benefit in these applications. Agree with what you've said about requiring a less slippery oil with worn synchros, however i have heard that shockproof also makes LSDs lock a bit harder...

For grease/oil - kerosene, tho some use diesel. The water based degreasers i've used have been hopeless, but they'd probably be ok for cleaning off the kerosene.

Some tyre manufacturers publish tread width spec on the web - see what you can find. IIRC you want 0 deg camber at the rear for max traction, and r spec circuit tyres wont be the best option for straight line traction. Maybe ask in the drag forum for a suggestion on a street legal tyre??

Which cat did you have? "high flow" can mean different things to different people - especially if you work in the marketing department for a cat converter company.... For me, not running a cat is for people that piss in the street and throw McDs wrappers out the window... low brow.

FWIW i had some repco socket allen keys and while the finish was excellent they broke in use. No problem with Kinchrome.

Flicking back and forth is good - it means that closed loop is working and therefore that the o2 sensor is working. Locking during closed loop (light load) means its on its way out, so you might as well replace it now. IIRC workshop manual says replace every 40,000kms but of course there's no need to do that since you can check it.

Maybe a loose belt - power steering? Though usually that will scream as the engine starts. Maybe next try with the windows open to get a different perspective on if its inside or outtide.

Some have used 34 o2 sensors successfully even though they are zirconia (not titania like the 32 ones, and electrically different). My xforce dumps came with an adapter that bolted in, but it was hopeless as the sensor didn't protrude into the flow path properly. I took my xforces to an exhaust shop and had them cut off the 34 mounting and weld the 32 mount adapter into a sensible position. This is what the unmodified xforce + adapter looked like. I cant imagine the o2 would work at all like that. In the stock dumps it protrudes well into the flow path.

I believe gain trades off opening the wastegate early or late. If you open early you don't get to full boost as quickly as possible, if you open too late you get a spike. So yeah, keep turning it down until you get a very small spike.

There's been threads on this before with better solutions than the bandaids above - try searching.

More expensive infra-reds can read a larger temperature range. Also, they need to be calibrated for different materials (unless you're just checking relative differences). I think i paid about $200 for mine a few years ago from http://www.onetemp.com.au/

Well I don't have any experience, but this is the interwebz so that wont stop me from shooting my mouth off. Bearings chew out quickly and turbo dies Sample size of one is statistically meaningless. The balancing process can merely involve verification and no actual modification.

Are you sure both actuators are good and moving in unison? If they're not you could be spinning one turbo a lot harder. Even if they appear to be ok, swap the front and rear so if it goes again it will be interesting if the failure moves with the actuator or not.

Justjap.com http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=285 Need 17s for the 330 kit (or the brembos for that matter), and 18s for the 356 kit (usually, some exceptions). Just as easy to install as brembos and comes with street pads and braided lines, new chunkier rotors etc. only downside its they dont look standard....

Here's what the bits look like