MrStabby

If the clutch is not 100% disengaged then it can cause crunching, and since you're friction point is close to the floor it could be happening, but you can probably tell by feel if it is or not. Check out the DIY section there's bound to be something on pedal adjustment and/or bleeding.

The factory ducts just go from the lip holes to the wheel well then end. The nismo or UAS deflectors then connect to the radius rod and deflect the air towards the caliper and rotor. Its not going be as effective as running large tubing from the end of the duct, but there's not much space left for tubing after you take the movement of the wheel into consideration. I copied the factory ducts with some sheet aluminium. They're a bit nasty, but its only air...

Its been done plenty of times - did you search? R33's are bolt ons, R34 have a different mounting bolt size IIRC. Some of us have gone for the D2/G4 330mm kit instead, and have liked it (with std master).

IMO you should probably replace all the studs now - if one has been over tightened (and therefore stretched and weaker) chances are that the others have as well. And they're kind of important so don't skimp! From my experience all tyre shop monkeys overtighten a LOT because they think tighter=better. Oh, and you might be able to use a tie rod separator or something like that to the the old stud out. Also, it might be difficult to get the tyre shop that broke the stud to replace it - they may say (and might be right) that it was damaged before they got to it. Of course if you've seen some idiot on the end of a 600mm breaker bar putting is all into doing up the nut, different story.

Even 3M say that teflon is a wank in such applications, and they obviously have a vested interest is promoting it.... To the OP - you're worrying too much.

IIRC there was a thread a while back about an R34 making 350 or 360 odd with GT-SS's

+11ty. Read the spring rate sticky and work out what rate you have now, its probably way too stiff.

If no-one answers read the spring rate sticky (assuming you have some stockers to measure)

GSL - i've had that before, and it was clearly visible as differently coloured areas on the rotor. Is it always visible?

I hit 15 psi at about 3900rpm with the same turbos. Have you got a boost vs RPM graph? AFAIK there's only one size of R34 N1. What does the 402 refer to?

"[brake squeal] is caused when the pad “bounces” in a calliper and the squeal noise is resonance between the back plate and the piston" according to EBC Which is why the shimming and grease/paste is important, but as you say the contact area can trigger the pad to piston vibration.

Re: AWD controller, i'd put that near the top of the list, powerdown out of corners is hopeless in R32s....as you must already know. I just got the austalian ebay one for $160 which helps massively, but all the serious guys say get the Ruzic... Re: Brakes, dont worry about changing the rears, and for the fronts many have had success with the G4/D2 chinese stuff, which accept AP pads. Used to be around $2K for the kit which includes rotors, calipers, adapters, braided lines and street pads. I got EBC yellows for my G4s for just over $300. There's been a couple of good threads in Suspension/Braking/Tyres about them, so search there.

If the solenoids are stuffed you should be able to tell by reading resistance with a multimeter right?

I though they were all like that (mine is)

Have you got the anti-squeal hardware and grease installed? Changing rotors to get rid of squeal will be a waste of money IMO. Search here first - there's been a number of threads about this.

Boiling fluid doesnt cause shuddering. The other suggestions in this thread are on the money.

I have RDAs like jenkies but just on the back. No problems with them. Noise is more about the pads and the way they're fitted than the rotor.

They help stop the pads squealing. Wreckers or the for sale part of this forum....

Check what the alternator is putting out - IIRC is should be 13.8 to 14.4. If its much over that, its broken and will be killing the batteries.

You want "lightweight shockproof" and get it from http://www.performancelub.com/ (excellent customer service)

That's just means its a little less convenient, but it can still be done ok. Check the details of what's required in the thread.

PM replied to

If you can measure the spring dimensions you can calculate the spring rate. See SKs sticky, or there are some online calculators.

I have double booked that weekend :-( I'm selling my spot for $90 - Who wants it?. (If you're not a member, you'll probably have to send sau:nsw another $20 to make up the difference.).

^ what he said