MrStabby

When i first read your post i was thinking booster vacuum leak. Double check what you did with the vac line. They can also leak internally, so if you have a vacuum pump check that as well.

Only the vspec R32's had brembos (with 324x30mm rotors, or is it 327?) but all the R33s Rs have them. Other R32 gtrs have the Nissan/Sumitomo caliper with the 296x32mm rotors. IIRC R33 gtsts are 296x30mm (so the caliper is a little narrower).

Until the motor is stripped and the failure mode identified, you cant make that call. Remember he's tracking his car, so this anecdote is not that useful as track work is much harder on the engine that street work. You could make the same argument against having a wideband to monitor AFR and an oil pressure gauge, which for most people are a complete waste of time and will not make any difference. I like to think more about risk mitigation and cost benefit. Midrange oils like 8100 or Mobil 1 are pretty cheap, say $65 for 5 liters and have a decent HTHS. Since the OP is getting a rebuild there's more investment to protect, and IMO running a low end oil is false economy. For context, he'll spend about $1000 on petrol during the life of that $65 oil change. However, I agree 300V is a wank on a street car (I shouldnt have mentioned it), as is 3000kms oil changes. If you've spent $25K on a race motor, its a different story.

He's only running 16 psi, but it does seem odd to run 400kw turbos then only crank them up to 300. Any reason why they didn't try for more boost?

Don't use Motul 4100 - its a low end oil. Motul 8100 or Mobil 1 0W-40 as a minimum. If you want a properly tough 40 weight then its liquid gold like 300V or something from Redline.

There is a thread on here somewhere where the wastegate pipes on split dumps were cut to make screamers. But yeh, sik ulehs only need apply for that mod....and track only.

It would be worth checking they're set the same by applying pressure to the common line at the boost controller and verifying they both open at exactly the same pressure before you re-install all the bits you've taken off to get at the adjustment.

For insurance, you could install a wideband AFR, and an oil pressure gauge. That way you can keep an eye things - eg if a FPR or fuel pump are flaky you will see the full load AFRs change and can take action before the motor pops. Also - what oil were you using?

Damn - I cant make it. Can I get a refund or sell my spot?

mad's advice is good. But if it were me i'd just pull the thermostat out, and go for a drive to see if that's it. If that fixes it get a definitely fit a new one as it helps your motor get up to temperature quicker, and that's important in the long term.

I have one. Fits nicely in the factory mounting and works

More detail http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...l&hl=timing

+1, you're obviously not getting any plenum pressure to the wastegate actuator. Check out some of the boost controller install guides in the Tutorials/DIY section, then double check your install - there must be something misconnected. Post pictures of the tubes if you cant find it.

If they are for the canister then it wont effect performance, but you can get defected for emissions.

Maybe make the gtst easier to live with? You could fix the suspension so its not bouncy, get a quieter exhaust, maybe some new seats etc.

Shudder while turning tightly can just mean the LSD is tight (which is a good thing!). I didn't think that ATTESSA put any torque to the front in that situation. It *should* be smarter than that.

If the pineapples are metal, you'd expect more noise but I don't know what the noise would be. You can get urethane/neoprene/whatever its called pineapples that wont transmit noise.

Yep same with my 32 GTR.... Only notice it on the highway. The gearbox does have two breather pipes (i assume one is the transfer case). I've been thinking about extending the lines into the airbox to just burn it, or back past (ie downwind) of the shifter location to see if that stops it coming inside.

Used oil analysis is the only way I know of. Basically, every oil change you send off a sample of the oil to a lab and they send you a report. Its been discussed here before so search if you're interested.

And dont forget to bleed the system - there will be a bolt near the top of the motor, drivers side near the front. Look for a gold sticker. Take the bolt out which will let the air escape then close it when the coolant flows. Or something like that....

Yeah search in the NSW forum - been covered to death.

What problem are you trying to fix? I've always wondered if pulling in a lot more castor is what makes upper control arm bushes chew out on 32s....

You can make that power but might need a little more boost. Waste of money to change the stock intercooler tho, they're fine for 350kw. I ran my stock turbos at that boost and they lasted a couple of years before they blew up...

PM Toshi. Search against his name for more info.