MrStabby

It should be consistent, ie always black when you're on boost at normal temperature, or never. Is the power always the same? If its intermittent there may be a intermittently faulty sensor - might be worth plugging consult in for diagnostic check. Do you know what AFR the tuner targeted? Got a dyno graph with AFR?

Is the smoke black or blue/white? (FWIW black = rich tune, blue/white = burning oil)

On pump I doubt it, more like 440 max. Check out the 26 turbo upgrade sticky.

Nah, you do dumps when you replace turbos, not whey you're changing front pipe. Good question!

Noob question - what is wrong with that?

Yeah shroud is a problem with a wider radiator. I slotted the bolt holes in the top metal brackets so i could pull the radiator further away from the fan, and that was enough.

Fed SS and Falken 452s are normal street tyres. I used Fed SS and they were good for street but not much chop for track. The S spec KU36 and RSRs will have a much higher grip level, but compromise wear noise comfort etc over a full street tyre. Personally i dont notice the difference in noise/comfort with Falken RT-615s or Fed RSRs tho.

Disco would have been talking about the -7s with that comment. The wheels on the -9 are the same as GT-SS.

Bastards! I'll keep a eye out for it. I'm not that far from that area. Did you have any security on it? Immobiliser/alarm?

+1. KU36s are cheaper and well regarded, but less grippy than the RSRs. I figure with 320kw you want all the grip you can get. Might be a touch over $300 per tyre, but excellent value. EDIT: Oh i have NFI about drag specifically, comments apply to street and track.

+1 for Don Data and NIGTR. Also remember the -9s don't come with actuators, and you really don't want to be using 20yo actuators on your new turbos. So, you could put HKS actuators on the then you're 100% equivalent to GT-SS. IMO You should decide between -9s or -5s based on your power goal, and go for the smallest turbo that meets that goal.

-9s will make 320kw easy. I think some have pushed them over 350kw, but that's not necessarily a good idea. I'm making 305 on -7s at just 16.5 psi. Go -5s if you want extra lag.

Here's my guesses on what stuff should cost - others will have a better idea tho Organic Clutch - $600 + $500 to fit 100K service (so timing belt, water pump, idler/tensioner bearings i guess) - maybe $1K all up Alternator reco - $400 Radiator hoses (SFA unless they did all the coolant hoses, ie plenum off etc, which would be at least $500) Splitfires $600 Compression check (this is very useful to know - your motor is in excellent condition) $?? So thats about: $3100 already, + comp test + some labour for the fitting of alternator/splitfires, so its seems in the right ballpark to me. Re: AFMs , they wont both go at once, so just replace the stuffed one. No point it bitching to a workshop about your AFMs dying - stuff breaking is what happens on older cars. I probably spend around $8K all up a year on keeping my car running and adding improvements. I think of it as an investment to keep the car running sweetly and making it go faster...

Drop the front of the cat and see if its looks like this; that's bits of ceramic turbine. What's your power goal? -7s or -9s are probably a better choice than -5s unless you're going to rebuild the motor and go for something like 400kws...

Ok, I used S 34deg 50.409 E 149deg 41.109 and it seemed to trigger ok. I'll have a look at the export thing.

I've used Harry's Lap Timer with the tom tom cradle and it works ok. You need to jailbreak if you want to use a bluetooth GPS. I have the wakefield start/stop line co-ordinates - you just put it in as a point of interest IIRC.

I did it on the GTR. IIRC the seal kit was $80 from race brakes. I didnt bother splitting the caliper and it was pretty easy.

Ok, I put the deposit in. I guess you'll see it in SAU's account tomorrow. Name: Adam Car Type: R32 GTR Newb or not: Not Most recent lap: 1.13.9 # of Drivers: 1 # of Passengers & Name: 0

I had 10kg/8.5kg and hated it. I now have 8/6 and its much better (though they may also be related to adding some ride height), though i think a little softer would suit me best (and i like stiff suspension).

Does anyone know if the ADM R32 GTRs had the same exhaust as JDM? Or did Nissan get some sort of low sales volume concession on the noise level issue? Otherwise I cant see how they could have sold them here legally....

Bearings will make noise all the time if they're stuffed. More likely to be belts - have you checked the tension? You can probably tighten them up again if they're loose, but if it were me i'd just replace them if they dont look perfect.

Gas injection is old skool. I've heard the XR6T boys are having great results with liquid LPG injection. Thanks to boyle's law it makes more power than 98, and the effect to especially beneficial on forced induction engines due to the heat added by the compressor. The biggest problem for them is limited supply of the kit making it difficult to source. I havent looked into it myself - all this info is second hand.

Re: king pin, try tightening it first. He might be assuming because its loose its stuffed.

The boxes were improved over the years, more synchros on third gear and other stuff IIRC....If you have a choice of any box get a series 3 R33 one. Some of the older gearbox parts are no longer available and when you rebuild you may need to buy extra parts to work with the series 3 R33 spares. Stock flywheels are 10kgs. I've seen aftermarket ones at 5.5 and 4.5kgs.

This has been discussed before - have you searched?