MrStabby

The more you lower the car the more adjustables you'll need to be able to get the alignment to something sensible. Strongly suggest you dont go lower than 350mm front and 340mm rear as the handling turns to poo if you do. Front should be rear hight +10mm. Measure from wheel centerline up to the guard lip. Agree with NZM on the bushes, but what you need depends on hight. Avoid rose jointed arms on a street car. Other than that sway bars and an attessa tweaker.

Or try Nistune instead. Cheaper, looks stock and its an Australian product. However since the car appears to be blowing more smoke without any changes you may have an issue with an AFM or other sensor. If you have any mates with Consult cable+software check the ECU fault codes. Dont worry about the oil going black - that's normal and not related. If there's good oil in there already change it at 5000kms, if you don't know what it is then yeah change it now.

If you've got a multimeter check if you can see 11 or so volts at the pump when the ignition is on. Also, some models have 'fuel pump control module' that dies, and a direct earth will bypass the module and get you running again. AFAICT the module reduces the voltage to the pump by switching in a soft earth when high fuel flow is not required.

Since GTRs understeer a lot you want to have a stiffer rear bar to dial some of that out - so that's why those guys are changing that end first. Having adjustables means you can change the understeer/oversteer balance by changing the stiffness. I did both ends in adjustable whitelines. They're pretty cheap so i did both at once.

I bought one of the local ebay ones before this thread was created.. so how effective are they? The comments in this thread are making me query whether its even worth installing.

+1. I had 10fr 8.5rr and it was too stiff.

Good to hear it appears to be only a cosmetic problem, but how would you stop a cop from defecting you? An official statement from Federal would probably do the job - does one exist that owners could print out and keep in the glove box? If Federal are not willing to issue such a statement then I'd still be demanding replacements - you don't want to be relying on hearsay if something bad happens.

I haven't used them, so def get another opinion before you buy.

You've tried heating it first right? Didnt work for me, but def. give it a shot before you cut.

My statement is a guess based on what I would consider a low risk of attracting a defect, which is not the same things as what you actually asked, but what I have assumed you're actually interested in. My rationale is, clear cover = cosmetic, aftermarket cam gears = engine modification. Lowest risk is keep that standard cover of course, but you know that already.

It sounds like you're talking about coolant lines, not oil. Photos please. If its that really big one in the center near the cam cover, then yes its a bitch because its hard to hold still, and if you dont you bend the tubes either side. I would use a large socket rather than a tube spanner. I cant recall if you have to undo that big one, but you do need to undo the two flare nuts along the same tubes to right to remove the lot. I had flare nut spanners and still couldnt undo them - they just rounded off, so i cut the tubes close to the flare nut so i could get a socket on them, and therefore had to buy new tubes to replace them. Good luck.

The cover wont be be defectable, but any non-standard cam gears visible through it will be....

I was told by an air con guy that is it for the aircon (there's only one fan right?), and will comes on when the refrigerant gets too hot (ie when you're in traffic). So there must be a temperature switch in the refrigerant piping somewhere. Mine comes on, but a bit too late (ie after i'm getting ambient termperature air from the vents). You could try carefully blocking all airflow through the heat exchanger then putting the aircon on max and it should come on eventually - might take five mins or so of idling.

IMO those tyres are unroadworthy, and therefore you qualify for full replacement. The Fair Trading laws are strong and clear. Force them to replace the tyres, as you say its a safety issue.

If are ever going to change the dumps then you want to do it while you're changing the turbos, so yes do it now. There's a thread on the difference the dumps make, up to you to interpret what's in that thread..... I'm using the xforce splits (with modified o2 sensor mounting) cost me $280 from NZ(ebay) + $60 for the mod, and they seem to work fine. If the R34's are cheaper than that then they're a good option as they will be higher quality. EDIT: Oh you'll have to either modify the o2 mount (as the 33/34 use different o2 sensors to the 32s), or get 33/34 o2 sensors. o2 sensors are a maintenance item at 40,000kms so you might as well put new ones in either way. The 32 and 33/34 sensors are a electrically different, but some have used them interchangeably with success. I stayed with the 32 sensors as i though it would be lower risk.

Perhaps you could tee in a one way valve, so vacuum is allowed but as soon as you hit boost it closes. NFI if such a thing could be make to work with next to no flowrate tho...

Do you have a boost control problem? If it aint broke dont fix it.

Take a look at this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...html&hl=AAC

At 300kw you should be fine, at 400kw you'll probably strip third gear (just guessing the power figures, but you get the idea)

Look likes you just need to lift and turn the wheel hub up to the arm. Expect to have to manhandle it all to get it together.

Whistling/stalling was probably an air leak, and you would expect black smoke in that case. White smoke is burning oil, which could mean the turbos bearing seal is stuffed, which probably means the bearing is stuffed. Does the wheel turn smoothly? Is it still burning oil (because changing the wastegate actuator shouldnt have any impact). If its stopped burning oil i have NFI

They rear wheels bearings are not generic so you wont be able to do that (the outer housing is a custom shape and AFAICT you cant remove the insides)

You probably want to get your springs reset, which I guess is what people mean when they say "compressing". http://autospeed.com.au/cms/title_Resettin...82/article.html Changing the front height may well affect handling in a negative way if you go too far.

If you're not on the books you wont be covered by workers comp, so what happens if you get injured on the job?

My 2c; apexi intake (pod boxed) - swap with stock airbox rb25 turbo - leave it, unlikely they will notice greddy spec b/c - will have to be completely hidden, probably best to just put the stock stuff back on turbo timer - ?? catch can - will be fine as long as its plumbed in properly (no venting to atmosphere) split dump - probably ok pwr radiator - will be fine upgraded injectors fuel pump and nistune will they? - should be fine 20% tint i think - IIRC 20% is legal... boost gauge on pillar - if its right down the bottom of the A pillar, it should be alright. If you can touch it with your head (imagine being in an accident) then it will have to go coilovers - probably ok non standard gear knob - will be ok if the gate pattern is shown on it or nearby bodykit? - probably ok as long as there are no sharp edges (think of what happens to a pedestrian in an accident) and it must be more than 10cm from the ground 18inch rims? - could be a problem, there was the +1/+1 rule at one stage, ie you can go one inch wider and one inch larger in diameter (as long as the tyre rolling diameter is the same). But i'm not sure about +1/+1 any more. Probably best to borrow some stock rims with tyres with plenty of tread. gtr bonnet? - should be fine Also, make sure there is 10cm ground clearance under the car (exhaust is usually a problem if you've set the coilovers low) and replace the stock bov and SMIC as you already said. If you've cut the bodywork for the FMIC that can be a problem. Then it depends on how nasty they want to be, if they're not too bad you'll get through with the above.