MrStabby

I havent used either (so this post wont have a lot of value) but have been researching these two for a while. I figure with 400hp you want all the grip you can get. The RSRs are still S spec like KU36s (not R spec aka proper semi), but are stickier so wont last quite as long (treadwear 140 vs 180). I've been tossing up between these two, and am going to go with RSRs. The $200 is what, 3 tanks of fuel? :-) There are other threads on this....

What did you tell them the power goal is? And if you didnt, did they ask? If you're asking for big power that sounds cheap.

WRT the D2/G4 stuff, on a shock dyno the performance is poor and the dampening adjuster does almost nothing, unless they have improved them over the last two years. These days most places offer them with spring rate of your choice, so that problem has gone away.

I had 10kg front 8.5kg rear and hated it. Driving instructor said the rear was too hard for track work even. Running 8.4kg and 6.4kg now (which was someone's oran park setup) and its way better. So, if you like very hard suspension something around 8f 6r would be as high as i'd recommend. AFAIK many consider 6f 4r a good street track compromise. From the ones listed i'd go 7f 5r, but it depends on what you like. If you're in AU don't forget about exchange rate and delivery. D2 are known as being cheapies.

Ages ago i got some done at Chalmers Tyre Brake & Steering in Alexandria. Young bloke did it - made me a bit nervous at the time but he eventually got it mounted properly before he cut so no problems. Just glad i watched. IIRC $5 per rotor. 32 GTR are 32 new 30 worn on front, 33GTR are 30 new 28 warn. 32GTR rears are 18new 16 worn.

I would say the design is clever. The split design is there to reduce the turbulence that occurs after the gate and turbine, however the effect will only be considerable when the gate is shut. So when compared to an open dump, you would expect spool to be better. The dyno sheets posted show improved spool, but as stated the change of front pipe ID means the test is unreliable. The problem with splits is that they are much more sensitive to sizing, whereas with opens pretty much anything will be fine.

Each car will be different (tyres/wheels, alignment settings) so just try the middle setting first for a bit and see how you like it. Trackday would be safest to try out different settings.

Dude there's been threads on this before - McSearchy time.

Yeah, or more correctly shift the bias of the car from oversteer to understeer. If you stiffen up one end, the tyres at that end will work harder and therefore loose grip earlier relative to the other end. There's more to it than the diameter of the bar - the length of the arms also determines how the bar flexes - think of what happens with a longer bar when you're undoing a nut. That's why the outer connections on an adjustable bar make it less stiff. WRT weight - the heavier end will work the tyres harder, so you can compensate for that by putting more bar on the other end. IMO its best to replace both front and rear at the same time and get at least one adjustable so you can play with understeer/oversteer balance. If you're going to track it adjustables both ends.

How much risk are you willing to accept? Basically, more power = more risk of the engine blowing up. Nismoid's suggestion of ~280kw is very safe provided you're changed the turbos, and probably means you can still use the standard injectors and AFMs. IMO 300kw is still very safe on a motor that's running well, and that's where i've stopped. 280-300 is whole new ball game compared to a 175kw stocker.

The treadwear ratings of S spec (like KU36) and R spec (like RE55s) are completely different (about 180 vs about 60). All things being equal the KU36s will last far longer on the street. RT-615s which i imagine are similar to KU36s, dont get chopped up like street tyres when used at the track.

What colour was the smoke? FWIW Black = rich mixture, blue/white = oil burning.

Tein superstreet will have a sensible spring rate at least. They others may not, and if they dont they'll be horrible regardless of condition. Make sure you find out what the rate is before you buy.

+1 some of the names on Moonus list are suspect. You couldnt go wrong with Unigroup or Croydon Racing.

300kw is piss easy in a gtr, as you say light mods. I spend about $8K a year on mine all up (incl rego, insurance, fuel and everything else), but i'm always doing extra stuff to it. This year will be more like $12k due to turbo replacement... My recipe for 300kw is; Less than $2.6K for turbos (2860-7s) $500 for seimens injectors $400 for Nistune $340 for modified xforce dumps (car already had dump back) $850 for CRD tune (other places would be less) Around $1K for labour I'd do the turbos (and dumps if ever going to do them) straight away after getting the car. All the other stuff can wait.

Black smoke = air leaking after being measured by the AFM Whistle = air leaking under boost AFAIK there's nothing to indicate a problem with the turbo. Connect a hose to the actuator and suck on it - it should be airtight. No need to take them off. If you cant find a leak maybe try replacing any hose that's not in perfect condition. FWIW on my GTR a loose bolt on a vacuum connection under the plenum caused a leak.

R33 brembos bolt on so......as long as the wheels can clear them you should be ok. Usually wheel clearance is the problem not suspension.

Nah that thing is inside the rear door trim on the drivers side (on R32 GTR at least).

Wakefield licenses are still available (I got one on Friday). Duncan - can you confirm that they are ok for this day? EDIT: Doh - wrong thread

IIRC; Motul RBF600 boils at 310degC and costs around $25-30 per 500ml Nulon Extreme performance boils at 280degC and is around $9 per 500ml YMMV but for a street car the Nulon should be fine.

Surely that would cause underboosting not overboosting?

I'd check the turbo hasnt seized. Pull the inlet to the compressor off and see if it will spin freely.

Yeah i mean the vac (or boost) lines. Maybe re-route your boost gauge to tee it off just before the actuator to check that the actuator is seeing full boost. Otherwise try another actuator. I have no good ideas.... Agree that ecu wouldn't be related to boost creep, but I cant explain what Pal saw on his car.

I can only think it will be the wastegate actuator malfunctioning or a leak in the boost signal to the wastegate actuator. I'd replace all the signal tubing first, and if that doesnt work try a new wastegate actuator.

When a belt starts to slip after working for a long time, i reckon it should be replaced. Also, belts need to grip - screeching is them slipping, so putting on a lubricant like WD40 will just make the slipping problem worse. I wouldnt expect it to be bearing, as that noise will be consistent not coming and going as you're seeing. Overtighening usually just makes bearings wear faster - AFAIK it cant cause screeching. Have you checked the PS fluid level? (not that I would expect that to make the noise you described, but i dont have any good ideas).