MrStabby

R33 brembos bolt on so......as long as the wheels can clear them you should be ok. Usually wheel clearance is the problem not suspension.

Nah that thing is inside the rear door trim on the drivers side (on R32 GTR at least).

Wakefield licenses are still available (I got one on Friday). Duncan - can you confirm that they are ok for this day? EDIT: Doh - wrong thread

IIRC; Motul RBF600 boils at 310degC and costs around $25-30 per 500ml Nulon Extreme performance boils at 280degC and is around $9 per 500ml YMMV but for a street car the Nulon should be fine.

Surely that would cause underboosting not overboosting?

I'd check the turbo hasnt seized. Pull the inlet to the compressor off and see if it will spin freely.

Yeah i mean the vac (or boost) lines. Maybe re-route your boost gauge to tee it off just before the actuator to check that the actuator is seeing full boost. Otherwise try another actuator. I have no good ideas.... Agree that ecu wouldn't be related to boost creep, but I cant explain what Pal saw on his car.

I can only think it will be the wastegate actuator malfunctioning or a leak in the boost signal to the wastegate actuator. I'd replace all the signal tubing first, and if that doesnt work try a new wastegate actuator.

When a belt starts to slip after working for a long time, i reckon it should be replaced. Also, belts need to grip - screeching is them slipping, so putting on a lubricant like WD40 will just make the slipping problem worse. I wouldnt expect it to be bearing, as that noise will be consistent not coming and going as you're seeing. Overtighening usually just makes bearings wear faster - AFAIK it cant cause screeching. Have you checked the PS fluid level? (not that I would expect that to make the noise you described, but i dont have any good ideas).

Do you have the dimensions? In particular the seat width outside to outside and shoulder width inside to inside? Or can i come by and take a look?

Perhaps they are DOT approved (so legal on the road in the US) but not legal on Australian roads?

The only diff with the engine on is that the booster is helping put force on the master cylinder. So nothing will change in the hydraulics. Are you saying its worse than before you bled them?

DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 are all good as they have similar chemistry. Its 5.0 you have to avoid as its silicon based, not polyethylene glycol like the others.

Lighter = more suited to drag or circuit, spins up and down more quickly Stock weight = easier to operate clutch, recommend for street That said, i have a 5.5kg in mine as i needed something when i tossed the giken twin plate, and dont have a problem with it with an organic clutch plate. Stock flywheel is 10kg.

+1. I disconnect the CAS plug and crank the motor until the oil warning light goes off. I do this when i change oil as well to make sure its all the way through.

rattle gun or hold the crank still with the harmonic balancer bolt. If you still have problems give the bolt heads a whack with a hammer then try again.

Hi, could i change mine to MrStabby Cheers

Dont forget the engine should be warmed up.

My guess is; there's no good reason to take it off, so why not leave it on? If oil temp > coolant temp it will be useful. Might also help getting oil up to temp more quickly, which is important.

I'd go Jap oil cooler over JJ..... The chinese kit I had was rubbish and a line failed - scared the crap out of me (wasnt JJ, but they looked similar at the time). It was binned for an HKS kit which is far superior. I think of it as engine insurance, cost $800 from nengun at the time. Replace ALL the rubber coolant hoses if you havent already. Check engine mounts.

You *might* get away with safc - i'd check with your tuner. Usually if you change injectors or MAF you want a proper tuneable ECU rather than a signal bender like a safc, since the tuneable ECU will work a lot better. But, if you're happy with running an non-standard MAF with the safc and are tight on cash, you might be happy with slightly larger injectors as well. To an extent they can offset each other, so you'll require less signal bending with both in place. AFAIK, i could be wrong...

+1. Best post in this thread. Someone has a B.E.

BOVs are used for the following reasons (if my googling can be trusted); - prevent compressor surge - reduce turbo and engine wear - maintain turbo speed during gear change (to reduce lag)

Do you KNOW they're not firing at idle or just SUSPECT it? If the car is extra rich at idle/low load but ok otherwise, then the injector latency setting may be too big. However if the latency is too low you'll get extra lean at idle/low load when its ok at load... If the system is working in closed loop control (ie the o2 sensor is being used) then its supposed to bounce from lean to rich and back again constantly - thats how it works. BTW black smoke = rich, white/blue smoke is oil burning.... nasty.

Are you sure it hasnt got adjustable suspension now? (Look for a threaded section on the outside of the shock under the spring). Springs determine height on stock suspension, you could have a sagged spring, but sagging happens over tens of years, not a single long drive. The teins will come with springs so if it is a sagged spring it will fix it.