MrStabby

Do you have the dimensions? In particular the seat width outside to outside and shoulder width inside to inside? Or can i come by and take a look?

Perhaps they are DOT approved (so legal on the road in the US) but not legal on Australian roads?

The only diff with the engine on is that the booster is helping put force on the master cylinder. So nothing will change in the hydraulics. Are you saying its worse than before you bled them?

DOT 3, 4 or 5.1 are all good as they have similar chemistry. Its 5.0 you have to avoid as its silicon based, not polyethylene glycol like the others.

Lighter = more suited to drag or circuit, spins up and down more quickly Stock weight = easier to operate clutch, recommend for street That said, i have a 5.5kg in mine as i needed something when i tossed the giken twin plate, and dont have a problem with it with an organic clutch plate. Stock flywheel is 10kg.

+1. I disconnect the CAS plug and crank the motor until the oil warning light goes off. I do this when i change oil as well to make sure its all the way through.

rattle gun or hold the crank still with the harmonic balancer bolt. If you still have problems give the bolt heads a whack with a hammer then try again.

Hi, could i change mine to MrStabby Cheers

Dont forget the engine should be warmed up.

My guess is; there's no good reason to take it off, so why not leave it on? If oil temp > coolant temp it will be useful. Might also help getting oil up to temp more quickly, which is important.

I'd go Jap oil cooler over JJ..... The chinese kit I had was rubbish and a line failed - scared the crap out of me (wasnt JJ, but they looked similar at the time). It was binned for an HKS kit which is far superior. I think of it as engine insurance, cost $800 from nengun at the time. Replace ALL the rubber coolant hoses if you havent already. Check engine mounts.

You *might* get away with safc - i'd check with your tuner. Usually if you change injectors or MAF you want a proper tuneable ECU rather than a signal bender like a safc, since the tuneable ECU will work a lot better. But, if you're happy with running an non-standard MAF with the safc and are tight on cash, you might be happy with slightly larger injectors as well. To an extent they can offset each other, so you'll require less signal bending with both in place. AFAIK, i could be wrong...

+1. Best post in this thread. Someone has a B.E.

BOVs are used for the following reasons (if my googling can be trusted); - prevent compressor surge - reduce turbo and engine wear - maintain turbo speed during gear change (to reduce lag)

Do you KNOW they're not firing at idle or just SUSPECT it? If the car is extra rich at idle/low load but ok otherwise, then the injector latency setting may be too big. However if the latency is too low you'll get extra lean at idle/low load when its ok at load... If the system is working in closed loop control (ie the o2 sensor is being used) then its supposed to bounce from lean to rich and back again constantly - thats how it works. BTW black smoke = rich, white/blue smoke is oil burning.... nasty.

Are you sure it hasnt got adjustable suspension now? (Look for a threaded section on the outside of the shock under the spring). Springs determine height on stock suspension, you could have a sagged spring, but sagging happens over tens of years, not a single long drive. The teins will come with springs so if it is a sagged spring it will fix it.

If you have a boost leak it will run very rich - what were the AFRs like? Also, the boost seems to be holding very well, so my ignorant guess would be tune not boost leak.

Email John ([email protected]) and ask him direct.

So what are 8100 and 300v going for? FWIW 5L of Mobil 1 5w-50 is $65 at Autobarn and $72 at Supercheap.

For R32 GTR whiteline adjustables, the fronts can be used with the standard links, and the rears come with links. Have you confirmed that you need to get the links separately? Should be more like $500 for the pair.

Are you going to be using them mainly for street or track? If mainly street then S spec is probably best: Falk RT-615 though they're a bit old hat, so i'm going to try Kumho KU36s or Fed RSRs as they seem to be the preferred options these days. KU36s are cheap, RSRs grip better. If mainly track then R spec is probably best: R888s, RE55S and D03G etc But it also comes down to personal taste. AFAIK S spec = longer life, better wet grip, more comfortable R spec = better dry grip

I *think* the type 4 Nistunes are an option, and if so would be way better than SAFC.

They max out of resolution at around 280kw or so, but they can flow much more. If you tune past that point it can be risky, so you'd want to be much more conservative in the tune. Since -5s go way past 280 you should upgrade AFMs (after the exhaust is sorted).

Stoked - 305awkw at just 16.5psi, with a clutch that was only sold as good for 240kw. 24U block, probably N1 engine (so bigger cams, more finely balanced) Nistune by Croydon Racing R34 N1 turbos (2860-7s) Xforce split dumps, modified to put the R32 o2 bung in a sensible location and smoothed a little Aftermarket front pipe, 200 cell Metal Cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back (very quiet compared to most) Greddy Profec EBC Seimens 550cc injectors Trust Intercooler, about the same size at stock Sard high volume fuel pump with direct earth Adjustable cam wheels (but set to 0) Otherwise stock, eg airbox, AFMs, coilpacks etc Jim said it was very easy to tune up and make good power.