MrStabby

If you have a boost leak it will run very rich - what were the AFRs like? Also, the boost seems to be holding very well, so my ignorant guess would be tune not boost leak.

Email John ([email protected]) and ask him direct.

So what are 8100 and 300v going for? FWIW 5L of Mobil 1 5w-50 is $65 at Autobarn and $72 at Supercheap.

For R32 GTR whiteline adjustables, the fronts can be used with the standard links, and the rears come with links. Have you confirmed that you need to get the links separately? Should be more like $500 for the pair.

Are you going to be using them mainly for street or track? If mainly street then S spec is probably best: Falk RT-615 though they're a bit old hat, so i'm going to try Kumho KU36s or Fed RSRs as they seem to be the preferred options these days. KU36s are cheap, RSRs grip better. If mainly track then R spec is probably best: R888s, RE55S and D03G etc But it also comes down to personal taste. AFAIK S spec = longer life, better wet grip, more comfortable R spec = better dry grip

I *think* the type 4 Nistunes are an option, and if so would be way better than SAFC.

They max out of resolution at around 280kw or so, but they can flow much more. If you tune past that point it can be risky, so you'd want to be much more conservative in the tune. Since -5s go way past 280 you should upgrade AFMs (after the exhaust is sorted).

Stoked - 305awkw at just 16.5psi, with a clutch that was only sold as good for 240kw. 24U block, probably N1 engine (so bigger cams, more finely balanced) Nistune by Croydon Racing R34 N1 turbos (2860-7s) Xforce split dumps, modified to put the R32 o2 bung in a sensible location and smoothed a little Aftermarket front pipe, 200 cell Metal Cat, 3.5 in Trust Cat back (very quiet compared to most) Greddy Profec EBC Seimens 550cc injectors Trust Intercooler, about the same size at stock Sard high volume fuel pump with direct earth Adjustable cam wheels (but set to 0) Otherwise stock, eg airbox, AFMs, coilpacks etc Jim said it was very easy to tune up and make good power.

Status - i thought conventional wisdom was that any sort of fan does SFA at speed, as the air pressure generated at the front of the car pushes much more air through the radiator than the fan, and therefore you might as well just turn the fan off at high speed. Sounds like that is not the case from your experience. Could the thermo shrouding have been restricting airflow?

Check out the Suspension/handling articles sticky - tons of great info in there.

Probably a stuffed capacitor, if i remember how rectifiers work. NFI on why the pulsing slows as revs rise. The rectifier is probably built into the regulator unit....but i got my rebuilt ($380 including everything) so they must be available.

The -7's quoted up at $400 cheaper per pair when I priced them, and the difference between them and the -9s is not big and probably not noticeable at <300kw. Avoid is probably a bit strong until the price matches or gets very close.

edit: double post

IIRC the diff ratios are different in R34s, so you might want to change the diffs as well if you're doing the gearbox. I guess if you're changing the gearset ratios you could choose one that will work with non-R34 diffs. Justjap used to sell new boxes for $3200. Maybe they still do.

I don't know what torque I'm producing....Mine's currently holding 252kw, but I'd like to up the boost before the tune in finished. Any chance it will hold much more? Not sure of the brand.

Yeah i think they're all pretty much the same....agree with getting the best one you can find. Maybe the very last ones got a pull clutch and the crank oil pump drive fix??

Or you could interpret what he said as "Dont ask questions and learn stuff". The OP asked "Is it normal?" not "How do i fix it?".

Its not too hard. Gaskets can be re-used if they're in good nick, but YMMV. You just need some long extensions to get to the dump bolts on the front turbo. IIRC i used a 500mm one.

Yep sounds like clutch. Dont be surprised if it starts to slip when you hit boost. Not sure what you mean but that, you engage the clutch to drive the rear wheels. Your problem will be that its slipping when engaged.

Agreed, the original point was mainly about wear and film strength, which is very much oil dependent. Getting as much backlash out of the system through tight build tolerances is also crucial. Out of interest - was the triple plate solid or spring center? Solid centers must be be murder on drivelines.

True, and think about what would happen if the shock loading broke the oil film - no more gear against gear sliding and the forces of the now gripping gears would rip the teeth off, as the force would be radial instead of tangential (just my guess).

I'd say gear wear means the oil cant cope. I use Redline MT-90, but in your special case you should probably give them a call and explain what's happened with the gear wear and ask what they recommend, maybe one of the shockproofs.

Skylinekid - what oil are you using in the box?

Some of us had problems with DBA4000s cracking when used at the track. Do a search if you want the details.