MrStabby

Status - i thought conventional wisdom was that any sort of fan does SFA at speed, as the air pressure generated at the front of the car pushes much more air through the radiator than the fan, and therefore you might as well just turn the fan off at high speed. Sounds like that is not the case from your experience. Could the thermo shrouding have been restricting airflow?

Check out the Suspension/handling articles sticky - tons of great info in there.

Probably a stuffed capacitor, if i remember how rectifiers work. NFI on why the pulsing slows as revs rise. The rectifier is probably built into the regulator unit....but i got my rebuilt ($380 including everything) so they must be available.

The -7's quoted up at $400 cheaper per pair when I priced them, and the difference between them and the -9s is not big and probably not noticeable at <300kw. Avoid is probably a bit strong until the price matches or gets very close.

edit: double post

IIRC the diff ratios are different in R34s, so you might want to change the diffs as well if you're doing the gearbox. I guess if you're changing the gearset ratios you could choose one that will work with non-R34 diffs. Justjap used to sell new boxes for $3200. Maybe they still do.

I don't know what torque I'm producing....Mine's currently holding 252kw, but I'd like to up the boost before the tune in finished. Any chance it will hold much more? Not sure of the brand.

Yeah i think they're all pretty much the same....agree with getting the best one you can find. Maybe the very last ones got a pull clutch and the crank oil pump drive fix??

Or you could interpret what he said as "Dont ask questions and learn stuff". The OP asked "Is it normal?" not "How do i fix it?".

Its not too hard. Gaskets can be re-used if they're in good nick, but YMMV. You just need some long extensions to get to the dump bolts on the front turbo. IIRC i used a 500mm one.

Yep sounds like clutch. Dont be surprised if it starts to slip when you hit boost. Not sure what you mean but that, you engage the clutch to drive the rear wheels. Your problem will be that its slipping when engaged.

Agreed, the original point was mainly about wear and film strength, which is very much oil dependent. Getting as much backlash out of the system through tight build tolerances is also crucial. Out of interest - was the triple plate solid or spring center? Solid centers must be be murder on drivelines.

True, and think about what would happen if the shock loading broke the oil film - no more gear against gear sliding and the forces of the now gripping gears would rip the teeth off, as the force would be radial instead of tangential (just my guess).

I'd say gear wear means the oil cant cope. I use Redline MT-90, but in your special case you should probably give them a call and explain what's happened with the gear wear and ask what they recommend, maybe one of the shockproofs.

Skylinekid - what oil are you using in the box?

Some of us had problems with DBA4000s cracking when used at the track. Do a search if you want the details.

I have the seimens 550s. Mine came with a large single o-ring at the top, a couple of which leaked after a short while. When i pulled them to check they had torn. Replaced all six with the factory o rings pushed down to the bottom of the mounting area, and they have been perfect since.

It will be very stuff to move by hand, maybe too stiff. And the actuator pushes on it to open the WG, so you need to try to move it in the same direction. But yeah, its almost certainly not stuck open if you're using the stock dump, and if it was you probably wouldnt be able to move it by hand anyway......so keep looking for the leak. Are you sure your new boost nipple is airtight?

Are you saying that you suspect an intercooler pipe leak, but that an intercooler pipe leak wont stop the car building boost? Because it will - the boost will leak out! Are you getting black smoke out the back? If you have a boost leak it will run very rich and you'll get black smoke. Perhaps so rich that missfires/shudders. If its not a boost leak check that the wastegate isnt stuck open (you should be able to move the actuator rod with your hand, or just apply 10psi air pressure to it and watch it move). But i dont think your symptoms match a stuck wastegate.

Look from underneath, its just to the left of the front turbo support where it bolts onto the block.

These Getrags have non-metal synchros and use synthetic ATF instead of oil. Search here and you'll find the issues been covered a number of times.

http://gcg.com.au/Turbo/ViewProduct.aspx?PCategoryID=2 FYI GCG are now showing the -9s as 2860s not 2859s. Maybe common sense is making a comeback?

IIRC One hose is the vacuum signal to operate the valve, one is plumbed into the intake somewhere and the other will go to the petrol tank. You can get hit pretty hard for disconnecting emissions equipment, so if its a street car much better to just move it as suggested.

1. To present the greatest difference in pressure across the turbos' turbine (to make it work the best), you want to have zero backpressure after the turbine. Bigger is usually better, but you also want to limit changes in cross sectional area. 2. Split dumps should help when the wastegate is closed as well, due to their ability to limit turbulence just downstream of the turbo. Turbulence = backpressure. 3. Split dumps are much more sensitive to sizing than bellmouths. With Bellmouths you can pretty much bolt any dump to any turbo and it should work fine. With splits you need to take some care. ^^ that's all theory. Reality may be different.

Yeah true but I reckon fuel surge would be a fair bit worse with that sort of setup. I guess if you dont track it its not a problem.