MrStabby

The bosch is a lot cheaper but isn't a bolt in as it doesn't fit the cradle. Jap one should fit well.

Price indication; -7s which come with actuators = $2600 -9s $2740 + $280 for new actuators = $3020 20 year old actuators are not worth using as the springs are likely to have softened with all the heat cycles, and have softened differently so you'll get surging as they fight.

Say you were running 300kw, would the -9s produce that with a slightly lower temperature (due to the better compressor efficiency) than the -7s? Or are they only better when you're running them right at the peak?

Aren't the -9's the way to go now instead of -7's? (or are they more expensive?)

I have no idea where it is, so do i just spray along the whole length until i hear the idle lift? I think i have a can or aerostart somewhere which i assume is similar stuff.

EDIT: Hot side is not the right terminology - i mean post compressor Symptoms; - suddenly no boost after a track lap - stalling after throttle blip or pulling up at the lights No smoke so I assume that means its not a turbo (they're 5000km old rebuilds), so i'm looking for a leak. I've checked the four rubber pipes and they all look fine. I took off the two pipes in the engine bay to check them, they looked ok, replaced them but no change. So what now?

o2 sensor lines should be in those holders that you squeeze shut, which should keep them clear of hot bits. White/blue smoke is usually oil. Check the oil and coolant levels, then take it for a smooth run which should burn off anything spilled, then check levels again (obviously dont do the coolant until the engine is cool). If all is good keep an eagle eye on levels for a while. I did this recently and needed to nip up a banjo and drain mount which had slow leaks. IIRC old fuel looses knock resistance to an extent.

PM me if you need the manual - i have it in PDF. I also couldnt get it to train after a turbo change (but i do get P1 and P2), so i'm running the $22 special until i get another chance to look at it. Mine may have been damaged when the rear turbo went - if that's possible.

Since you will have setup the PFC to cope with the new injectors, the tune should be fine for driving between workshops (no boosting). If cold start/cold running is not ok then something is amiss (for example you didnt enter the correct latency when updating the PFC) You may even find its ok without a retune, but you need to verify that on the dyno first.

Or you could just try synthetic ATF which handles temperature better than regular fluid.

JDM 32 GTR seats are pretty small - my shoulders are wider than the seat so you can imagine how uncomfortable that is... First stop for me is a trip down to JustJap - they sell Bride copys there, but at least you can sit in them to get an idea on fit (so i've heard). http://justjap.com/store/home.php?cat=282

I'll be trying iPhone+Tomtom Cradle+Harrys Lap timer so there'll be no cheating on the timing! I can also get details corner speed etc so in theory i'll be able to tell if clean or dirty is faster, but i doubt i'm anywhere near good/consistent enough make that call...

Interestingly that's a federal government link....I didnt know we were getting national tech standards!

The o2 sensor should flick back and forth when its up to temp - that indicates it working (assuming the voltages are right, cant remember what they're supposed to be). Its the ECU is hunting for stochiometric mixture (which the factory narrowband o2 sensors cant read).

Heller how does that work with the ABS higher than the reservoir? I ended up shelling out for a hand pump to do mine after replacing the ABS.

Thanks everyone for your comments. Since there's a mixed response i'll try getting a little looser instead of staying dead clean and see how it goes next Saturday at Wakefiled.

I assume you've already changed the brake fluid and bled the calipers (which is the best place to start), but have you bled the ABS? You need a vacuum pump to do it. Second step is getting pads with higher co-efficient of friction.

^ what he said, and if you now have grippier tyres on the front it will further shift the balance to oversteer

Get the wheel alignment done first, and that will tell you if got enough adjustment with the factory suspension to get a reasonable setup or if you'll need to raise it and/or add some adjustable arms/bushes. Typically the lower you go, the more adjustability you need to be able get the alignment right.

If the rubber appears to be intact, no noise etc. is it reasonable to assume the balancer is still doing its job? Ie are there times at which you should replace other than when its obviously failed?

For mine (32 GTR) i just used some generic hose and pipe clamps. Get some calipers and measure the OD of the hard pipe out of the reservoir then go to pirtek/enzed and ask them for hose that will fit nicely over that, and is good for transmission fluid. Its just gravity feed so no particular pressure requirement.

Typically you make more power at higher rpm and thats not the only force - think about torque, and hence Elites mention of slicks.

Is it ever better to go just past the limit of adhesion and get a little tail out, assuming it can be done smoothly? If so, when? Or will this be slower since static friction is higher than kinetic friction? (32 GTR, pretty sure the rear LSD is good)

The RT-615s are also fine on the dyno. The RSRs are fair bit more sticky however (treadwear 140 compared to ~200) and had turned to mush in the post i saw, so appeared to be unusable for dyno tune IIRC - Here's a similar link, cant find the one i remember which had pix.

Has it always been that way? What changed since it started happening? IIRC the z32 Nistune into R33 needs some magic (different TPSes?)