MrStabby

Typically you make more power at higher rpm and thats not the only force - think about torque, and hence Elites mention of slicks.

Is it ever better to go just past the limit of adhesion and get a little tail out, assuming it can be done smoothly? If so, when? Or will this be slower since static friction is higher than kinetic friction? (32 GTR, pretty sure the rear LSD is good)

The RT-615s are also fine on the dyno. The RSRs are fair bit more sticky however (treadwear 140 compared to ~200) and had turned to mush in the post i saw, so appeared to be unusable for dyno tune IIRC - Here's a similar link, cant find the one i remember which had pix.

Has it always been that way? What changed since it started happening? IIRC the z32 Nistune into R33 needs some magic (different TPSes?)

To summarise/translate: better oils handle hotter temperatures better. If you paid $180 for an oil change it should be top stuff. At speed the fans/shrouding does nothing because you've got plenty of air being pushed through the radiator. You'd only look at them if you were getting hot at low speed (ie in traffic). Check if the radiator is blocked and if the thermostat is opening all the way. You could also try Redline water wetter if you aren't using it already, it can be worth 10 degrees or so.

Question for hrd-hr30 and NYTSKY - have you used both types on the same car? More info please I had sort of ruled out the RSRs as there was one post showing they were a bit too sticky to use on a dyno. Anyone used them for a dyno tune?

My best guess is that HTHS is the oil property you should be interested in (its measured at 150 deg C IIRC), and the max temp you can safely run an oil at is at least partly related to that and therefore not the same for all oils. HERE'S some figures i've pulled off the Internet - so usual caveat about accuracy. PM me if you look up the Royal Purple spec and i'll add it. Some time back Porsche issued a tech bulletin that recommended using oils with HTHS above 3.8 (or was it 4.0?) in their engines.

My mate has a Gates Racing put on his 33 GTST and it was noisy.

Any dont forget you'll have to re-tune.

Put another fuse in - if it blows again soonish, then yeah check the windings. It took mine a few hours of air con operation before it blew again.

My experience was similar to BlackR32. Plenum off, and of course replace ALL the coolant hoses while you're there so you dont have to take the plenum off again, which is a bitch of a job. Here's the part numbers of the stuff i replaced, and IIRC I missed the two elbows going to the assembly that holds the AAC. 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00

Did you use one of these? Is it mounted low down on the pillar?

Do the poncams have a different lift to stockers? If so you could measure the lift and see if it matches the poncam spec.

That's odd. If you open the bleeder on that caliper, it will loosen the brake if its a hydraulic problem. If it stays on, then the new caliper is suspect. Rebuilding calipers is pretty easy BTW.

How does that work? I would have thought the effect of static CR would be negligible on cylinder filling as the piston wont be anywhere near TDC when the inlet valve is open - right?

You ARE allowed to defend your personal safety using reasonable force, so there's no need for the F the law - instead, understand it and use it. See post above, but if it actually happened it would be prudent to say nothing to the police until you have a lawyer present.

Ok, so AFAIK; 1. it must not obstruct vision 2. it must not be able to come into contact with body/head in an accident (unless there was ADR compliant cushioning) So where can they go and be legal? I assume A pillar mounts are illegal for reason 2, and i dont want to put it in the RHS air vent.

Lets be clear on this when giving the statement to the rozzers; 1. The breaker bar is there for doing up wheel nuts if you get a flat and is NOT a weapon. 2. You were "in fear of your life" and just defending yourself - ie not protecting the car. When i get road raged at, I just think to myself that the person in question is an even bigger f-wit than myself, and for that merely deserves pity. However, next time it happens i'm going to pull out the phone camera and start snapping to see if that alters the situation.

Can you read this; I got the sticker from ebay - worth having. IIRC its the top row fourth from that right that blows when the mag clutch dies. IIRC the winding is supposed to be 3.5 ohms - mine was half that and blowing fuses before i replaced it. If you dont hear the clutch throw with a click when you turn the AC on, its a good place to start looking.

Take it to an auto-electrician. It might be easy to fix - ie maybe it just needs a set of brushes.

Adjusting the fuel pressure away from the standard level means you'll have to retune, as you are effectively changing the flowrate of the injectors (a little). You don't mention you have a programmable ECU so set it to the stock level. But as Nismoid stated you dont need it so why not put the stocker back on and sell the adjustable. One less problem plus money

Clarification - i'm only interested if i can pick up in Sydney.

I'll pickup and pay $250 for a good one.

The cap in the center appers to be pressed in, so i cant budge it with pliers....