MrStabby

Does the hose only get compressed after the engine cools or while it still hot? So you must have a leak to have to keep topping it up, right?

The AAC is bolted to the side and it controls idle. (its the bit just above the braided line in the picture, with the electrical connection). There's also boost/vacuum lines through the main section, so i dont really know what it is, but i'd be leaving it in.

IIRC Guilt-Toy has recommended Hunter All Wheel Dyno in the past - maybe shoot him a PM to double check.

I thought shudder = tight diff, not loose one. I was told that shockproof will give you more shudder, but that's because it increases the friction between the plates like a tighter diff would have. Makes sense in that many use it to compensate for loose synchos as well.

That's the best explanation i've read. I used to wonder why there wouldnt be a direct correlation between airflow and boost pressure, as i had thought that the engine would provided a fixed amount of resistance against a given flowrate. The difference is that we're talking about mass flowrate not volume flowrate. The bigger turbo = less temperature at the same pressure so more mass for the same volume. Is that it?

Due to potential danger of this IMO its a bit reckless to suggest it without mentioning how to avoid the risk, so you should add to that "back off a soon as you hit you hit 15psi, or you could potentially damage the motor". And maybe also what this will achieve - "if the boost comes on earlier then you have a boost control issue. ". Perhaps the OP knows these things, perhaps not. I disagree. A PROPERLY SETUP EBC will work at least as well as a t piece, and should work better.

Variable timing and adjusted base timing are not the same thing, and produce different outcomes so the question is a fair one. However the answer appears to be that 0 is generally best, but its not inconceivable that something other than zero could be better for a particular setup.

Certainly sounds like the replacement alternator is no good as it should be about 14v when the engines running - is it new/rebuild or second hand?

You havent got it quite right either - the lines are connected to the actuators not the wastegates :-) Fair call.

Just remember to back off when you've hit a bar or so, you dont want to risk blowing the motor. Also depending on how the tune is, bringing the boost on earlier may get you into dangerous territory. It would be worth checking on the dyno. Might be easier to just disconnect the signal to the actuators first. If that fixes it then your boost control is stuffed. You know you'd have much less lag with -9s right?

Around $500 - but IIRC there was some talk that they've stopped making them and UAS was thinking of doing a batch of similar to take up the slack....

Heh yeah, its meant to make noise to let you know its time to replace the pads...

I paid $500 for a single AFM rebuild for my v8 porka - but that included a new hotwire as well. AFAIK it was as good as new because the hotwire and the PCB is pretty much all there is to an AFM. The ebay guy is probably just soldering in a new PCB.

Pads maybe $200-400 for set of 4, rotors maybe $600-1000. So depending on what you're getting the price could be ok. Are the rotors truly warn, or is that just what they said to you? Pad squealing is often an installation issue - there has been plenty of threads on the topic.....

Doing it with a stopwatch is stupid, they should use timestamped video. If they watch you for a long time, then a few seconds off with the stopwatch will make bugger all difference. Re the angle (parallax error) at that distance/speed it would be negligible (and you would work it out with high school maths if you had to). Of course you're far more likely to get caught by a police car, as there's lots more of them....

Dunno - have a look - similar to a brake booster but smaller diameter and further down the firewall.

Are you sure the clutch booster is working? The clutch should be easier to press when the engine is on (as the booster is using engine vacuum to assist the pedal - just like a brake booster does)

If you start using ethanol blend, plan on changing your fuel filter after a few tanks as it does tend to clean up crap from your fuel system.

If it were just a regas then he probably would have done it - likely he's bullshitting or he has no idea whats wrong.... Assume the compressor is stuffed and make the offer based on that assumption. I've been told all the R32 compressor rebuild kits are gone and the only option is a new one from Nissan (somewhere around $1500 for part only IIRC, but ring nissan to check). You may also need new hoses, and of course to get it fitted and gassed. So if it were me i'd be dropping $2000 off the price for broken air con. If the seller doesnt agree with you covering your ass that way, get him to do the belts/regas and therefore prove that is the only problem. After a regas is cheap (of course you should do the dryer at the same time).

You didnt mention what plug gap you're running. Many people close it down from the factory 1.1mm to 0.8mm to help with missfire.

The bottom o-rings dont provide a fuel seal so no point in changing them. The top o-rings which provide the injector to fuel rail seal are the important ones and are not visible until you pull the injector out of the rail. Dont confuse them with the rubber spacers. The injector bodies can leak, that may well be your problem. I've heard you can get them repaired (but not confirmed it), but its an ideal time to upgrade if you power plans require more capacity, but you'll need programmable engine management to run different sized injectors.

Voltmeter in the dash - 10v or less, followed eventually by a stalled motor :-)

FWIW my 120,000km old turbos let go at 13.5 psi on a very conservative tune. Factory turbo replacement interval is 100,000km and that's standard setup. Get the turbos changed now, the other stuff can wait until whenever you like. New garrets will cost around $2600 for the pair - no need to go second hand. I'd guess installation would be at least $500, maybe a bit more. Do o2s at the same time, and if you're ever going to do the dumps do it at the same time.

Looks right to me.

They should face down into the hollow of the channel. IIRC all i see on the top of mine are dome shaped bolt heads. I got a shop to do it, memory could be wrong