MrStabby

If it were just a regas then he probably would have done it - likely he's bullshitting or he has no idea whats wrong.... Assume the compressor is stuffed and make the offer based on that assumption. I've been told all the R32 compressor rebuild kits are gone and the only option is a new one from Nissan (somewhere around $1500 for part only IIRC, but ring nissan to check). You may also need new hoses, and of course to get it fitted and gassed. So if it were me i'd be dropping $2000 off the price for broken air con. If the seller doesnt agree with you covering your ass that way, get him to do the belts/regas and therefore prove that is the only problem. After a regas is cheap (of course you should do the dryer at the same time).

You didnt mention what plug gap you're running. Many people close it down from the factory 1.1mm to 0.8mm to help with missfire.

The bottom o-rings dont provide a fuel seal so no point in changing them. The top o-rings which provide the injector to fuel rail seal are the important ones and are not visible until you pull the injector out of the rail. Dont confuse them with the rubber spacers. The injector bodies can leak, that may well be your problem. I've heard you can get them repaired (but not confirmed it), but its an ideal time to upgrade if you power plans require more capacity, but you'll need programmable engine management to run different sized injectors.

Voltmeter in the dash - 10v or less, followed eventually by a stalled motor :-)

FWIW my 120,000km old turbos let go at 13.5 psi on a very conservative tune. Factory turbo replacement interval is 100,000km and that's standard setup. Get the turbos changed now, the other stuff can wait until whenever you like. New garrets will cost around $2600 for the pair - no need to go second hand. I'd guess installation would be at least $500, maybe a bit more. Do o2s at the same time, and if you're ever going to do the dumps do it at the same time.

Looks right to me.

They should face down into the hollow of the channel. IIRC all i see on the top of mine are dome shaped bolt heads. I got a shop to do it, memory could be wrong

Has the outer ring separated from the inner ring (wobble will be radial only)? I'm no expert but you'd probably be able to see this if you looked at the balancer end on and see any cracks/rips in the rubber. Try a small mirror. If thats the problem then you just need to replace the balancer.

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sintering "Sintered bronze in particular is frequently used as a material for bearings, since its porosity allows lubricants to flow through it or remain captured within it." So yeah add lubricant. My first guess is a grease would be ideal, but i havent checked the workshop manual maybe it says oil.

An apprentice that used to work for a place that sold roller ones told me they'd had some of them fall apart....If it were me i'd use a bronze stocker.

I modded my dumps so the o2 sensor was placed similarly to stock, so i didnt have to worry about if it would work or not. I assume the dumps are still on the car, so maybe just try 33/34 o2s instead to make life easier. If the guy has tuned the light load/cruise parts of the map to be 14.7 AFR then the o2 wont make much difference to economy.

You're not talking about the old ones that may come in the dumps are you? o2s are a maintenance item, every 40,000ks or so. Just take the dumps and the sensor to an exhaust shop. I had xforce dumps and they come with a hopeless adapter that if used wouldnt have put the sensor in the exhaust flow at all. Castle hill exhaust cut off the 33/34 mount and welded in the adapter in its place so that the 32 o2 sensor would be in the exhaust flow. $70. Or if your current o2s arent new just get new ones 33/34 ones like ali says. They're a different type (zirconia vs titania on the 32) but reportedly work fine.

If the flanges are true, just get another stud from Coventrys etc. Remember R32 o2s wont fit, but you can get that fixed.

On the GTR the seals at the bottom are not o-rings (but they might call them o rings), its almost a square cross section. They're not that critical. On the top of the injector is a rubber spacer and an o ring. Again the spacer is not that critical, but the o-ring is essential as it makes the seal. I probably have the part number at home... Also injectors can leak (mine did). I replaced the seals first as i couldnt tell where the leak was from. Didnt fix it so I replaced the injectors.

Yeah, try swapping it, and the other 5 while your at it of course. Its pretty easy. My DIY might help (for GTR but i think the 20s are similar) HERE. I got the seals from Nissan but any injection place should have them.

I bought seimens injectors from that trader, similar deal ~$500 for 550cc. The top seals werent right and collapsed, so i replaced them with the factory o rings and all is good. Two of my GTR injectors were leaking (which is not unheard of), so beware of condition if you're buying second hand. Also, if you buy new you wont need to have them cleaned/flow tested.

I was quoted $280 to $380 for full rebuild (bearings (which are noisy on mine), rewind, regulator, brushes). They said the regulator part was $120 on its own.... I know with some of the bosch alterators the regulator is mounted externally and contains the diode pack and brushes - no idea if the nissan ones are integrated like that since they're internal, but for you guys getting $110-150 quotes i'd like to know what that covers. WRT to air con rebuild, there's no rebuild kits left for R32 GTR so the only choice is new from Nissan. I dont know if 33 GTST is in the same boat but there was a group buy for re-gas a while ago - Frosty Auto Air, Bass Hill, 0418 608 680 - he rebuilds and he was the one that told me the 32 rebuild kits are all gone. He does good work.

Can you hear the air con clutch click on when you turn it on? If not check the fuse...

I know that place (I used to work on Canal road). Thanks.

Any recommendations? Does anyone know a Bosch/whatever model number or if the same alternator came in any locally sold cars?

Checked tyre pressures recently? Also, how's your alternator? Mines stuffed at the moment and ATTESSA gets emo on low volts...

Sweet - Thanks for that

This thread for GTS-T says "But I know for the GTR's you'll need to remove the plenum." Please tell me that's wrong.

I was told by an exhaust shop not to wrap my stainless dumps as it would make them become more brittle and prone to cracking

Stoptech agree with you README