MrStabby

Fully synthetic in a gearbox should be good for 300,000+kms. So no need to ever change it again!

Dude are you aware of all the bad stuff that happens when you lower alot? - smashed up shocks (check out SKs thread) - you wont be able to align it usefully anymore so your tyre life is down the toilet (unless you shell out on adjustable bushes/arms) - handling stuffed The above statements are oversimplified - just do your homework

Yeah i got mine done by Pirtek - one of them is attached to a hard pipe that nicely wraps around the crossmember so its an absolute bitch to get out...Pirtek guy briased a threaded fitting on the end of the hardpipe to make it into two pieces so it was easier to get back in.

That way to interpret the results are, - if its not 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) its definitely a fake, or stuffed - if it is 0.5v with ignition on (NOT idle) it may or may not be a fake So you can only confirm the negative with that test.

Post some photos so we can see what you've got. That way you will get better feedback.

Poking around an air con problem yesterday, i noticed 24U near the passenger side engine mount so its an N1 block, but is it an N1 motor? Other signs are; motor had an N1 water pump, CRD speculated it had aftermarket cams and the jap EEPROM had a 8500rpm redline. It did have stock ceramic turbos tho. So is this likely to be an N1 motor? Can i tell from the engine number? (where is it?) Wikipedia reckons the difference are; - stronger block - different top ring - balanced crank - bigger cams - different oil and water pumps - bigger, steel turbined turbos But did early N1s have the wider oil pump drive?

I'm always surprised that people have different ideas about oil change intervals, when a simple oil analysis should give you all the answers you need AND give you useful feedback on how long your motor is likely to last. If these guys havent verified the need to change the oil by having it analysed they're probably throwing money away. Analysis is a lot cheaper than sump full of 300V....not to mention a motor rebuild.

Yeah he needs to work on his spider sense.... Often the temp gauge gives you no indication of a problem, because there's no hot coolant on it....

Which tectaloy? They make more than one coolant.

If its running rich at cruise then somethings not working properly (so check it, could be a wiring problem). On boost over richness will be fixed by the tune.

Use the nistune software to read the output of your o2 sensor - it if doesnt flick back and forth when warmed up at cruise, replace it.

I agree its difficult to see how/why it would happen but there are many confirmed cases of turbine bits trashing motors, so i've just accepted that evidence and put aside my skepticism. I guess only a small proportion of turbine explosions cause engine damage, but it would be bloody minded to say it doesnt ever happen. Also, if your turbines do let go, it costs your tuner nothing. So remember its you that wears the risk of potential turbo (or engine) damage, so make your own mind up. My old 110,000kms R32 rear let go at 13.5psi. With newer turbos the risk is less, with lower boost the risk is less, and i imagine with a richer tune (so less exhaust temp) the risk is lower.

Agreed. Brand means nothing as they all make more than one model of tyre. You need to compare models within the same category.... AFAIK its reasonable to compare: Federal 595RS, Kumho KU36, Falken RT-615, Toyo R1R as they are all street/track crossover types.

Dont forget if you get the Brembos you'll also need a set of rotors, and you'll probably want some braided lines. For most the G4/D2 are cheaper and perform better.

+1. You wont have much fun with semi's at only one end. Get them all round or just replace the dead ones with something similar to whats on the other end if you cant afford a full set. Pretty sure the Fed 595RS offers more grip than the KU36, but IIRC 595RS = 140 treadwear, and the KU36 = 180 treadwear so in theory the Kumhos should last longer.

The G4 uses a banjo at the caliper, so they're different to the flare nut on the standard calipers.

Easy - dont let them know where you live. If its a mobile service, use a mates place....

To clarify, i'm interested in what the difference is between a manual boost controller (spring + ball type, not dumb bleed valve) vs EBC. Ballpark. 100rpm??

Blue smoke = burning oil, black smoke = rich mixture. As well as rings, oil can escape past valve stem seals and turbo seals AFAIK.

Roughly how many rpm is "much"?

That correlates with the "a good harmonic balancer will save your oil pump" theory i've heard stated on here.

Does doing bogan skidz as per youtube video get you Georgian babes?

I dont know anything about engine building but that makes a lot of sense to me. A loose fit will mean the crank is hammering the pump on the leading and trailing sides of the flat when on the limiter. The worse the fit, the smaller the area over which the force is delivered (think about the angles). If the area is small enough the stress becomes enough to plastically deform the gear, it work hardens and is made thinner until a crack develops and it dies. From a previous photo, you can see the force is only being transferred over a small area indicating a loose fit. So yeah, getting the clearance right is critical to ensure the stress doesnt get up to the gear materials plastic limit. And IIRC fatigue can occur below the plastic limit.

So you want to turn a lead/acid battery into a lead/water not battery??!! WTF? Can you confirm that Blitz ECUs also run the Consult protocol?

My guess: Coils are just coils of wire inside so the DC resistance should be pretty similar on all of them. If you find one with a lower resistance, it probably means that the insulation on the wire has broken down and electricity is flowing between some of the loops rather than through them all. If you find higher resistance on one, there's probably a contact problem. The former problem is probably not fixable, the second may be.