MrStabby

Nice. But what happens if your battery goes flat or you loose assistance with your steering and drive into a tree? This is a bit like taking the battery out of a fire alarm so it stops making that annoying "low battery" noise....

You keep dropping the g.... The way you notice bad pinging is the rattling, diesel motor like noise the engine makes, and then later the motor stops because its broken :-)

When i bought those John told me they dont just bolt up and i'd need to do some customization to get them on. I ended up spending a lot of time with the angle grinder to make them fit, and for that reason didnt particularly like the kit. Especially after i later fell the victim to the DBA4000 braindead slot design cracking issue. G4s FTMFW.

+1 for Nistune. ECU Looks stock, plenty good enough for 300kw, far cheaper than anything else with the same functionality, far more functional than anything at the same price. BUT - only if your tuner knows it.

So are you saying that spun bearings much more likely due to oil film breakdown than oil starvation? I would have thought the reverse was the case.

IMO No need to worry about all the suggestions on making the car go faster before your first outing. 1. Flush the brake fluid and replace it with a dot 5.1 or better. If your brake fluid boils you'll push the pedal to the floor but it wont stop the car.... 2. Brake pads; you dont know yet whether the ones you have now will be any good. They will perform differently at track temperatures, so you'll have to try them out or get something suited to track work. You might find they get chewed out quickly so keep an eye on then. 3. Oil starvation; On RB26 you fill the oil up to the bottom of the top bump in the dipstick (above the H mark). I think its the same on RB25s 4. Oil Temperature; if you havent got an oil temp gauge you're in the dark. Since you havent got an oil cooler either there is some risk. Good synthentic oil will stand up better under high temps. Maybe only do 6 back to back laps at full tilt. 5. If anything's not quite right dont push through it

Soften the front sway bar first to deal with the understeer, but if you've got rubbish tyres this might be more dangerous unless you're handy with opposite lock.......

This Bob Komtel - Street Machine article mentions it, and IIRC he wrote another column about a comparison of octane boosters and Nulon came out on top. Cant find that one tho.

There's at least four different sizes of 2860s - do you know which ones you have? The larger ones will have more power potential but produce power at higher rpm. Have a look through the RB26 turbo upgrade dyno sticky in Forced Induction find sheets to compare to. Not many people tune at 12.5 AFR when the boost is up - typically its more like 11.5 or 12, which will be safer for the motor. Maybe they're running less timing to try to compensate?? Did you ask Envy what happened at 185kms? AFAIK Jim at Croydon racing and Yuvas at Unigroup are among the most respected tuners in Sydney.

When people talk about leaking injectors they can be talking about leaking through the injector into the cylinder, which would be the only way you could have hydrolock. So yeah the o rings have nothing to do with it. BTW i wrote and injector change DIY yesterday HERE but from what you've said there is another. Do you have the URL?

Saying lower is better is an oversimplification, and not just due to the required spring stiffness and hitting bump stops. The angles that the suspension arms sit at and swing through changes, and this can only be partly offset by adding adjustable arms/bushes. You get to the point where lower is slower. I dont really understand the details... I was told by the gurus the 355 front and 345 rear was the optimum (thats guard to wheel centerline). I have that now and it works a lot better than it did when it was lower. If the front is too low you'll make the understeer worse. Of course get a corner balance and alignment after you've set the height. If you dont get more info here, include details of your suspension setup, wheel and tyre combo, power output etc and post in the motorsport forum.

If you have a boost controller it runs there. It only goes straight to the actuator if you dont have a controller. If your boost controller is already pumbed in, then you might as well leave it as is and block off the feed that comes with the kit.

Ahh ok great. Perhaps i missed it, but if not could you add a comment about the moderation to the Rules section at the top? Or even better a pop up that says the post will not appear until its be approved?

After hitting 'post new topic' it just dumps me back into Tutorials / DIY / FAQ - no error or warnings. Am i doing something wrong?

Replacing just the seals or the entire injector set is quite an easy job. This work was done on an R32, but since the RB26 didnt change much over its lifetime the 33/34s are hopefully the same. All RB26s use the same injectors. Note that if you change to a different injector size you MUST have programmable engine management. WARNING: You will spill fuel during this work. I suggest you; - Make sure there's no flames or sparks nearby, so no smoking (duh) - Work on a cold motor - Have a powder or foam fire extinguisher handy, and make sure you know how to use it (eg if there is a fire, first stop the fuel source, so dont forget to turn off the ignition to stop the fuel pump, then aim the extinguisher at the base of the fire - dont waste it by pushing the flames around). A hose can be dangerous in a fuel fire... 1. The day before you intend to do the work, thoroughly degrease and clean around the injectors. 2. Locate the fuel pump fuse, start the motor then pull the fuse. This will relieve the fuel rail pressure 3. Remove the strut brace and cam breather hose 4. Remove the three 5mm hex key bolts from the black plastic injector wiring cover (just for a bit more flexibility) 5. Disconnect TPS connector and the connector next to make some space 6. Remove the two bolts holding the fuel rail on, then gradually ease the fuel rail up and out. The injectors will probably come with the rail. You dont need to remove the fuel connections to the rail (which are tight) 7. Ease the injectors out one at a time and try to catch any fuel with a rag. If replacing seals, remove the o ring from the top of injector and the rubber mount from the bottom of the injector or the cylinder head if it didnt come out with the injector. I used a watchmakers screwdriver to remove the o ring. If replacing injectors remove the metal clip from the electrical fitting, swap the injector and replace the clip. The outside of the o rings should be smeared with a little rubber grease. 8. Once all the seals or injectors are done, mount the bottom of the injectors then line up the tops of the injectors with the rail and ease it on. Carefully press the rail onto the injectors. Install the rail mounting bolts finger tight then do them up evenly a few turns at a time each side so the rail isnt skewed as it goes on 9. Clean up any spilt fuel. Really. You'll start the motor soon and probably don't want to see it on fire. 10. Replace the wiring connectors, hex bolts and cam breather hose. 11. If you are installing injectors of a different size you need to update your ECU to cope with them. - If using Nistune; turn the ignition on, load the config from the ECU, save a copy of the config to disk. Select 'Operations -> Resize Injectors'. Enter the original injector size and the new injector size. If the current injectors are OEM you can pull the size in with the 'Factory CC' button. If the new injectors have a different latency to the old ones, use 'Injector Latency -> Change Constant' to make the correction. Apply the new config to the ECU and save the new config to disk using a different filename. - If using PFC; refer to: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#57 FWIW OEM GTR injectors have a latency of 770 micro seconds. 12. Start the motor, and watch for any fuel leaks. As the engine is cold it will be running open loop so if it doesnt idle well it probably means the injector re-sizing needs a tweak. Putting a smaller cc number or larger latency number in the resize option will make things run richer, and vice verca. For Nistune if you are changing the cc number remember to use the last figure you entered in the Current field - not the factory number. If you dont understand how cc and latency settings effects fuel delivery in different ways take it to a tuner. 13. Go for a short drive and re-check for fuel leaks 14. If you changed injectors verify AFRs are good with a wideband o2 sensor (all dynos have them). Light load driving is fine in the short term, as closed loop should compensate when the engines warm. 15. Reinstall strut brace and you're done!