MrStabby

Umm, you says its in perfect nick but it crunches? Call me stupid but wouldn't that imply its clearly NOT in perfect nick? Or are brand new boxes known for crunching gears?

Interesting - was this a newly rebuilt box? IIRC there was post ages ago from someone who had problems with a rebuilt box and light shock.

i think there was a implied in nismoids post. You failed at the interwebs.

Big call to say the theory is bullshit if you havent studied fluid dynamics....(my guess is you havent :-) Consider the flow path from the turbine - its actually better in a split dump, especially when the wastegate is closed, so theoretically will present higher pressure difference across the turbine, and therefore it will spool better. The fact that the bellmouth is "big" is not beneficial, it causes more turbulence, which is more restrictive than a less turbulent path. When the wastegage opens the difference is less pronounced. Of course everything i'm saying is a massive oversimplification as well. Back to back dyno (or CFD) is the only way to KNOW.

I thought lightweight shockproof was only recommended as a stop gap to keep worn boxes going a bit longer. Wouldnt you have been better of with MT90? Since you've got a shiny new gearset it might be worth ringing up Redline and speaking to them directly to get the info straight from the source...

The MOST important thing when choosing a size is to get the circumference of the tyre the same as the stockers, so its legal and your speedo will be accurate.

Theoretically split dumps should work better, but that hasnt been confirmed in the real world and there doesnt even seem to be anecdotal evidence to support it either. Also you need to take more care with split dumps to verify everything fits well, in particular that the wastegate flapper doesnt catch.

Didnt he say "bore it out to 2.8 with rods and pistons" not "get 2.8 with rods, pistons and stroker crank" and since you cant get to 2.8 with a bore alone i'm guessing he's not getting 2.8 unless he's already running the 2.8 crank. Jez is that the case?

Looks like its 58252. Its 280L, so i guess thats 280l/h. Made in Japan - not sure if that helps in determining if its rebadged (not bosch i guess) Uses all the standard bits, including the pick up sock.

I havent heard them referred to as camber arms, but if you get an adjustable control arms (or replace the bushes in the standard arm with adjustable ones) you will get more adjustability. No shit eh? This is important if you're lowering the car, but you'll probably be able to get the alignment right without them at stock ride height. If you get adjustable bushes or adjustable arms with neoprene/nolathane/whatever bushes, the only downside is that they need to be greased around once a year or they get squeaky. If you were to get rose jointed arms then they will increase harshness and wear out much more quickly (probably not legal for the street anyway). If the nismo ones are rubber they shouldnt squeak so that sounds like a good option, tho 8 x 48 is 384 so maybe get a price for whiteline adjustables to see how it compares. The arms themselves dont wear out at all so no need to replace the whole arm.

Sard also fits straight in. No louder than standard.

This was posted in one of my threads - should be useful for you. (thanks moodles!) So use the standard fuel rail. No need to doubt anything URAS says - he knows stuff.

Whiteline (and i assume other) pineapples come with 6 rings, and you use 4 of the 6 to achieve the setup possibilities - drift, neutral and traction (which promotes squat). I *think* i remember SK saying that 32s are better with the neutral than traction setting, but you could always try both to see what you find. Also what's you're rear camber? Pulling a bit out might help as well (in a straight line at least). If you dont want to change the suspension, you could also go back to 16s and put something sticky on. It works for Twoogle...

If its the bearing test i'm thinking of, it has been largely discredited and shouldnt be used as a basis for making an oil choice. From the data i've seen the Redline is damn good, so unless you have a credible source showing its better than the Redline, i'd say stay with what you have. Especially seeing as how the Redline is already super expensive. How much does a fill cost you?

Exactly - the fact that disconnecting the actuator boost signal brought the boost on earlier means the EBC is clearly not doing its job. If the primary problem was with the actuator spring tension this wouldnt have happened. That valve is just making up for a crappy EBC AFAICT Of course if you increase the wastegate size you may need to increase the actuator spring stiffness to compensate, as force = pressure x area. Forces opening wastegate: exhaust against wastegate flapper and boost against actuator diaphragm Forces closing wastegate: actuator spring (or if you have one of those dual port actuators that you posted up, the other side of the actuator diaphragm)

But you have a 33 - dont they have a bit more space than 32s? Also, you really want to check the tread width. The 265 number only gives you an approximate idea of the tread width, some 265s are fatter than others and often street/track crossover tyres like the KU36 are on the wide side. Also, offset, ride height and alignment will affect what you can fit.... so its complicated. FWIW i'm running 255 RT-615s with 350/340mm fr/rr height and 2/1.25 degrees neg camber and have no problems with clearance at the front, and just a tiny bit at the back which was addressed with guard rolling. Sorry not sure what the offset is.

Aftermarket plenum with stock ECU?? WTF? If the TB makes a difference to the flowrate (ie if its less or more restrictive than what you have now) you might get into different cells in the fuel maps, but being a stock ECU everything will be very conservative so i doubt you'll notice any difference. Changing injector size or MAF is what doesnt work with stock ECU.

Yeah one of the ports is a vent to atmosphere - check the installation instructions if you have them. - one port to high pressure side (anywhere between turbo compressor outlet and throttle) - one port to wastegate actuator - one port venting to atmosphere on the valve i have the side entry is the high pressure side, and the bottom port is to the actuator (IIRC...). You'll have to work out which of your side ports is what.

Follow the line back from the turbo's actuator - it will be connected to the solenoid. Or post a pic or two of your engine bay.

Rear turbo on 32 GTR. Tune was 240kw @13psi, 11.5 AFR, turbos probably 115,000kms old. Failed the same as the pictures above with the shaft broken off at the housing. Turbine pieces caught by the cat. Was at Wakefield (for about the 6th time), no noise when it went just lost boost. Engine appears to be fine. My guess is that these are the factors that contribute to death; - Age (rebuild interval on 32 GTR turbos is 100,000kms) - Rotational speed (more boost = more rotational speed = more stress) - Exhaust temp (leaner AFR = higher temperature = more stress) So it might be more interesting if ppl can include age, boost and tune AFR (or if stock computer its probably very rich)

The turbine wheels are ceramic and yeah they go pop. Mine did at 13psi with a very conservative 11.5 AFR tune, at Wakefield. Fortunately i could drive home - i hear to tow back to sydney is ~$800. Anyways, the more boost the more risk, and if you're unlucky the motor can be destroyed when they go. So yeah, just run them at stock boost, and try and get some steel wheeled replacements as soon as you can. FWIW the stockers are supposed to be rebuilt every 100,000kms.

The seimens are: HERE on EBAY It says; Fitment: * ALL Nissan Skyline with RB26DETT * RB20DET (Requier Resistor Box. High resistant injectors and resistor box available if needed.) * R33 * GT-R * R32 They look about right and the vendor has 100% positive feedback.

Sards at $730 seems pretty good. How about Seimens? Looks like i can get straight fit 550cc for around $520, and being German i'd assume they'd be ok.

Actually Mad082 is correct. You said "A bigger spark plug gap will create a better spark because it requires more voltage to jump across the electrodes" which is true. So if you suspect high tension problems, that means less voltage is available at the gap and therefore less ability to spark over a large gap. To compensate, you reduce the gap to make it easier for spark to occur. Its just Ohms law, where resistance is a function of distance.

Castle Hill Exhaust told me that wrapping stainless will cause it to become brittle over time, and they strongly encouraged me to avoid it.