MrStabby

Aftermarket plenum with stock ECU?? WTF? If the TB makes a difference to the flowrate (ie if its less or more restrictive than what you have now) you might get into different cells in the fuel maps, but being a stock ECU everything will be very conservative so i doubt you'll notice any difference. Changing injector size or MAF is what doesnt work with stock ECU.

Yeah one of the ports is a vent to atmosphere - check the installation instructions if you have them. - one port to high pressure side (anywhere between turbo compressor outlet and throttle) - one port to wastegate actuator - one port venting to atmosphere on the valve i have the side entry is the high pressure side, and the bottom port is to the actuator (IIRC...). You'll have to work out which of your side ports is what.

Follow the line back from the turbo's actuator - it will be connected to the solenoid. Or post a pic or two of your engine bay.

Rear turbo on 32 GTR. Tune was 240kw @13psi, 11.5 AFR, turbos probably 115,000kms old. Failed the same as the pictures above with the shaft broken off at the housing. Turbine pieces caught by the cat. Was at Wakefield (for about the 6th time), no noise when it went just lost boost. Engine appears to be fine. My guess is that these are the factors that contribute to death; - Age (rebuild interval on 32 GTR turbos is 100,000kms) - Rotational speed (more boost = more rotational speed = more stress) - Exhaust temp (leaner AFR = higher temperature = more stress) So it might be more interesting if ppl can include age, boost and tune AFR (or if stock computer its probably very rich)

The turbine wheels are ceramic and yeah they go pop. Mine did at 13psi with a very conservative 11.5 AFR tune, at Wakefield. Fortunately i could drive home - i hear to tow back to sydney is ~$800. Anyways, the more boost the more risk, and if you're unlucky the motor can be destroyed when they go. So yeah, just run them at stock boost, and try and get some steel wheeled replacements as soon as you can. FWIW the stockers are supposed to be rebuilt every 100,000kms.

The seimens are: HERE on EBAY It says; Fitment: * ALL Nissan Skyline with RB26DETT * RB20DET (Requier Resistor Box. High resistant injectors and resistor box available if needed.) * R33 * GT-R * R32 They look about right and the vendor has 100% positive feedback.

Sards at $730 seems pretty good. How about Seimens? Looks like i can get straight fit 550cc for around $520, and being German i'd assume they'd be ok.

Actually Mad082 is correct. You said "A bigger spark plug gap will create a better spark because it requires more voltage to jump across the electrodes" which is true. So if you suspect high tension problems, that means less voltage is available at the gap and therefore less ability to spark over a large gap. To compensate, you reduce the gap to make it easier for spark to occur. Its just Ohms law, where resistance is a function of distance.

Castle Hill Exhaust told me that wrapping stainless will cause it to become brittle over time, and they strongly encouraged me to avoid it.

I just replaced the o-rings and cleaned it all up and have confirmed fuel is leaking out the injector body on two injectors. Can the injectors be repaired? I assume not, and i'm not interested in buying any more 20 year old injectors, so i guess that means Nismo 550s? (they're plenty big enough for my requirements). Are they straight fit? Any other options?

Please read this. You'll almost certainly learn something that will help you protect your bank balance. Just keep a few coins ready for the swear jar. Nazis? Ken oath. http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/noise/vehiclenoise.htm

Stock turbos blowing up on GTRs happens all the time, they are a known weak point once they get old. So if that's what happened you cant blame the mechanic, and he certainly isnt liable. Even if he was giving it some stick so what? Same thing happens every day when people get dyno tunes, and that doesnt make the tuner liable. BTW - what boost were you running them at? Best bet to get it back together is probably the garret 2860-7s @ 2600 for the pair. Nissan gasket kit is ~$180. Since you'll be getting someone else to do it let them sort out all the parts, with the possible exception of the turbos. Plus plenty of labour because its a bitch of a job. Since you're in there its worth doing the o2 sensors at the same time. HKS 2530 are bigger turbos. Not much point in putting them on unless you add all the other bits required to make them useful.

If money really doesn't matter Redline oils appear to have better HTHS than the Motul 300V, but they seem to be a fair bit more expensive, so i cant see that its really worth it. Much more important than worrying about which oil is worrying about oil starvation and temperature. Before track days i fill the oil up to to bottom of the bendy bit on the dipstick, which is a fair bit above the H mark. I also have an oil cooler and keep a close eye on the temperature, and stop if it gets to 110 degrees.

Who's had theirs done? Who did you get and how much?

The standard connections are all hard pipes, except for the oil drains. So braid is wank unless you want eye candy.

It cant be a broken turbo - you dont make any boost when that happens BTDT.

No they're not considered semi-slicks aka R spec tyres. They're like Falken RT-615s and Federal 595RSs. I run somewhere in the 30-32 psi for road and same (cold) for track (RT-615s). At the track you want them a bit doughy when you first get on, and they will harden up as they get temperature into them. If you start too high they just get skatey as the temperature goes up. Just play with the pressures at the track as YMMV. Mind you, with that much power you'll probably wish you were on real semis...

280 is a good figure as you should be able to get away with stock injectors and MAFs. Many guys do the fuel pump as insurance since they're getting long in the tooth. You'll probably need a better clutch depending on what you have now. Make sure you replace the dumps with something better and the o2 sensors while you're in there doing the turbos. Stock 32 dumps are crap, and in theory the o2 sensors are scheduled for replacement at 40,000kms. The originals may still be working but probably wont for much longer. Try 280 first and see how you like it. You cant sensibly use that much on the street anyhow.

The way i read what he said the twin system was making the 300, not a single. Extra capacity will make the thing spool faster no doubt, but since you dont know how they spool now this doesnt tell you much. If it were me and my money; - I sort of like the idea of being a bit different but i'd only try this setup IF 1. you can verify that the turbos are a sensible size 2. you use the manifold you have. I dont see that buying this setup is worth it if you just going to throw the manifold away - the 26 manifold/throttles probably arent worth the extra cost for only 300kw - single vs twin is largely a wank - as long as you get something that's sized correctly for your power goal you'll be happy. That guys style of discussion sets off alarms for me.

Some guys find that even two sets of adjustable bushes in the upper arm arent enough (depends on height and how much camber you want), so they've used replacement arms. re; stub axle, IIRC there's a ball joint at the bottom and a kingpin in the middle. If the kingpin's loose you might be able to get away with just tightening it up again.

Bumpy. Anyone?

Looks correct to me (how else would it go)?

Price seems about right to me for a quality shop selling at retail.

So what do you see when you jack it? I assume the top part of the mount just lifts up, but could you damage a good mount by doing this?

The oil is merely tailored for its purpose, which seems like common sense and therefore not that interesting. Bike oil - cant use FMs because of wet clutch, so its left out and economy is worse because of that Car oil - can use FMs because no wet clutch, so economy is better