MrStabby

I just replaced the o-rings and cleaned it all up and have confirmed fuel is leaking out the injector body on two injectors. Can the injectors be repaired? I assume not, and i'm not interested in buying any more 20 year old injectors, so i guess that means Nismo 550s? (they're plenty big enough for my requirements). Are they straight fit? Any other options?

Please read this. You'll almost certainly learn something that will help you protect your bank balance. Just keep a few coins ready for the swear jar. Nazis? Ken oath. http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/noise/vehiclenoise.htm

Stock turbos blowing up on GTRs happens all the time, they are a known weak point once they get old. So if that's what happened you cant blame the mechanic, and he certainly isnt liable. Even if he was giving it some stick so what? Same thing happens every day when people get dyno tunes, and that doesnt make the tuner liable. BTW - what boost were you running them at? Best bet to get it back together is probably the garret 2860-7s @ 2600 for the pair. Nissan gasket kit is ~$180. Since you'll be getting someone else to do it let them sort out all the parts, with the possible exception of the turbos. Plus plenty of labour because its a bitch of a job. Since you're in there its worth doing the o2 sensors at the same time. HKS 2530 are bigger turbos. Not much point in putting them on unless you add all the other bits required to make them useful.

If money really doesn't matter Redline oils appear to have better HTHS than the Motul 300V, but they seem to be a fair bit more expensive, so i cant see that its really worth it. Much more important than worrying about which oil is worrying about oil starvation and temperature. Before track days i fill the oil up to to bottom of the bendy bit on the dipstick, which is a fair bit above the H mark. I also have an oil cooler and keep a close eye on the temperature, and stop if it gets to 110 degrees.

Who's had theirs done? Who did you get and how much?

The standard connections are all hard pipes, except for the oil drains. So braid is wank unless you want eye candy.

It cant be a broken turbo - you dont make any boost when that happens BTDT.

No they're not considered semi-slicks aka R spec tyres. They're like Falken RT-615s and Federal 595RSs. I run somewhere in the 30-32 psi for road and same (cold) for track (RT-615s). At the track you want them a bit doughy when you first get on, and they will harden up as they get temperature into them. If you start too high they just get skatey as the temperature goes up. Just play with the pressures at the track as YMMV. Mind you, with that much power you'll probably wish you were on real semis...

280 is a good figure as you should be able to get away with stock injectors and MAFs. Many guys do the fuel pump as insurance since they're getting long in the tooth. You'll probably need a better clutch depending on what you have now. Make sure you replace the dumps with something better and the o2 sensors while you're in there doing the turbos. Stock 32 dumps are crap, and in theory the o2 sensors are scheduled for replacement at 40,000kms. The originals may still be working but probably wont for much longer. Try 280 first and see how you like it. You cant sensibly use that much on the street anyhow.

The way i read what he said the twin system was making the 300, not a single. Extra capacity will make the thing spool faster no doubt, but since you dont know how they spool now this doesnt tell you much. If it were me and my money; - I sort of like the idea of being a bit different but i'd only try this setup IF 1. you can verify that the turbos are a sensible size 2. you use the manifold you have. I dont see that buying this setup is worth it if you just going to throw the manifold away - the 26 manifold/throttles probably arent worth the extra cost for only 300kw - single vs twin is largely a wank - as long as you get something that's sized correctly for your power goal you'll be happy. That guys style of discussion sets off alarms for me.

Some guys find that even two sets of adjustable bushes in the upper arm arent enough (depends on height and how much camber you want), so they've used replacement arms. re; stub axle, IIRC there's a ball joint at the bottom and a kingpin in the middle. If the kingpin's loose you might be able to get away with just tightening it up again.

Bumpy. Anyone?

Looks correct to me (how else would it go)?

Price seems about right to me for a quality shop selling at retail.

So what do you see when you jack it? I assume the top part of the mount just lifts up, but could you damage a good mount by doing this?

The oil is merely tailored for its purpose, which seems like common sense and therefore not that interesting. Bike oil - cant use FMs because of wet clutch, so its left out and economy is worse because of that Car oil - can use FMs because no wet clutch, so economy is better

http://www.laserfocusworld.com/display_art...search-with-For

+1 for same thing all round on GTRs. If the current rims are all 17x9, i'd just keep them and get the tyres sorted. Run the 255 R1Rs on 9in rims both ends, get your ride height set to 355 front and 345 rear, car aligned and corner weighted. Of course fix anything that's not up to scratch already, and that will probably include adjustable bushes or arms to get the alignment right. If you've got understeer make the rear sway bar stiffer.

I assume that an EBC that requires a training run will be able to better control boost as it will be able to pre-calculate what deltas it needs to add the base system rather than having to respond in realtime, and therefore be reactive. Is this true or are all contemporary EBCs just reactive because its good enough?

The boost seems to fall away a bit from 22psi down to about 18.5, so it would be nice to stop that. I'd guess its due to the restrictive stock dumps, which may also make the boost build a bit lazier than it could with a better setup. A bit of a shame you didnt change them when you did the turbos, but its only money right? If your AFMs are maxing out its safer to get nismos rather than tune past it. IIRC they usually hit about 300 or just a bit less before they read the max 5.1volts.

FWIW i had 10 front 8.5 rear and they sucked. Driving instructor told me the rear in particular was too stiff. (full weight street GTR, Falken RT-615 tyres). With fat semi slicks and a super smooth track you might just get away with 10 front 8 rear, but if I were you i'd ask what rates they use in the motorsport forum. I now have 8.2 front and 6.4 rear and they work FAR better on the track and street - still very firm tho. These came off a lightened, full slicked, 400+kw car and were his oran park setup.

Did you get the UAS air deflectors? Exy for the GTR ones, needs some hacking to get the right clearance, but useful.

You're being naive. Just because that is what they are telling you doesnt mean that its true. They cant avoid the protections available under the law just because they said you have a 1 month warrantee. Contact your state department of Fair Trading if you want these shitheads to be held accountable. The Fair Trading laws are quite strict.

Good find, and its supported by Nistune software. Any good places locally to get the bosch sensor from?

I tried DS2500 and DS3000 on the sumitomos, and the pedal felt about the same (and the lines are braided). I've used the "street" G4 pads and EBC yellows with the G4s and they both felt about the same and a lot better. I bleed regularly, so i dont think there would have been much difference there, tho it is possible. Same fluid both times. The caliper just seems more rigid in the G4, but that could be my imagination. When i say pedal feel i'm not talking about how much pressure it takes to cause braking (which will be dependent on pad mu) but how the far the pedal falls when under force, so maybe i'm using the wrong term? Not true, the pad is almost identical to AP pads, just need a little bit of grinding of the backing plate to make it sit well. Mine were the fronts and i thought from memory that the fronts were the issue. A read of the thread will confirm/deny. The fact that they all failed in the same manner along a slot that uses an orientation that's unique to DBA is a fairly strong indication that the design is flawed.