Slirlian

Yeah! Might aswell sell it and go for a PPG straigh away instead of risiking damaging the box since the 6spd sell value almost covers half the PPG box.

Is there any options? Im about to crank up the power a bit more in my GTR, Running 707awhp today in the car and the gearbox does feel really good in general. However i feel its dumb to push the gearbox further and risking it would there be any Upgrade options to a R34 gtr or is it just to go straight to a PPG/samsonas/Quaiffe gearbox? The car is mostly used as a Road car so i would prefer not to hear the whines from a Sequential

No bits falls out of the oil pan at all just the "flake thing" in the oil. even if let the oil stay in a 10 liters bucket over night the "shimmer" doesent end upp falling to the bottom so there is no bigger particles in the oilpan. However when i cut open the Oil filters i can see some particles stuck in the filters, but i looks like "dirt" or more cylinde block material wich my engine builder think is normal since the car has just been running for so little time. Im going to continue to Drive the car now and let it go with the same oil for a little bit longer this time and see how it ends up lookin in the oil filter.

Yes i might aswell do it, i have actually saved 1 liters of oil from each change

Hey folks! I am going to try to make it as short as possible. Issue is that my oil looks like a metallic paint even after 5 oil changes.My R34 GTR ended up with a bad bearing earlier this year, so i decided to buy a brand new engine, Fresh 2nd hand Rb26 block, brand new head, Brand new cams springs etc, Brand new Nissan OEM RB26 crank, brand new nitto oil pump, New pistons and rods etc, Not a single part from my old engine was reused. I replaced all hoses and coolers etc etc. The engine is assembled by a reputable shop in my country that i trust fully, They do forged engines on a daily basis so all clearances etc and machine work is done by someone who is doing it all time. I did start up the Engine with my tuner, we took it for a spin to drive it warm and he was checking all values while i was driving (had to retune it a bit since i got other cams and Injectors)Engine did run about 1 hour then i replaced oil and filter to Motul Chrono 10-w40 (oil pressure is on idle 900rpm is at around 4bar) Warm oil 85 degrees. RUNNING E85 For some reason i did collect the oil and noticed that it looked All like a metallic paint. you cant feel the "flakes" but if u have a really strong Led light you can clearly see "shimmer" in the oil, At first i was like oh this is a normal thing running a garage 101 oil pan so its around 9liters of oil in the car + oil cooler. After this oil change we did some roadtuning (this time we drove the car 2 hours approx) and gave the Engine some boost (base pressure from gates) and it all was working perfect. Once we have tried everything out we decided to take it on the dyno next session. Since i couldent really relax from the metallic look of the oil so i went with another Oil change and it did still look like metallic. Maybie not AS much as first but still if u were having a strong LED light you could still see the flakes but not feel them. Since the car was already on the lfit then i Started it and ran it until oil temps was 85 degrees again and did 2 more Oil changes and i could see that the "shimmering" was reduced a bit. Also i have a Magnetic oil plug and there is barely ANY debrises on it We did then Hit the dyno and made 707 AWHP on a safe tune (E85) GTx3584 gen2, And the car runs like a dream but i still get the "shimmer" in the oil. the Car has now been running around 400kms Since it was built and i did my 5th oil change and could still see all the metallic "flakes" Oil pressure is unchanged on idle and while driving, Engine sounds really good and healthy. Have you inspected the oil of ur new engines with a really strong led? if so how did it look? Some people have told me that it should be ZERO shimmer, Some people say its the normal wear you can see, Some say its normal run in stuff but it doesent feel magnetic at all. Some say that the ARP lube + LOCTITE assembly lubes can make the oil look like metallic paint. I would accept all of those things at first 1-2 changes but now i have done 5 oil changes in a really short period and run time tho but it makes me worried, should i pull out the engine again and check the bearings before i ruin my new Crank? Here is some pics of the oil

Thanks for tips! will try swapping them around, also do a wheel alignment while im at it. If It would be TPS sensor wouldent my Car run bad also then? my Link Dash tells me that TPS is allright, (freshly calibrated also) Gonna try to swap around the tires a bit I have tried to Disconnect the wheel speed sensors but when i do the ABS lights turns on, when i plug them back ABS light turns off also

Currently Running 275-45-17" MT Et streets on my r33 gt-r Have checked tire pressure (same all around) Yesterday when i was rolling highway speed my 4wd Light started to flash, and my Torque split gauge constantly was showing 5-10% front torque when driving under normal conditions. Restarted the Car and the 4wd light stoped to flash and no fault codes on the attessa codes. When i start the car torquesplit gauge reads 0 as it should but ASAP i start to roll it goes to 5-10% even when rolling downhil with 0% Throttle. Anyone else have any experiances around this? Tires are the same around, fronts might be a little bit more worn out but its not like they are done while rears are fresh (could be like 2-3 mm Diff at max. Cheers!

Hey guys! I have a fresh built Rb30 /26 thats pushing some power, Around 850awhp with a GTX3584Gen2 at 34 PSI I do fill my catchtanks pretty fast with oil (alot faster when running on E85) , Right now i just run 1 AN12 hoose from each valvecover to one 0,5 liters catchcan each with a Filter on. I do have TOMEI baffles in the valve covers but yeah i guess its not enough (when on E85) Would you connect the catchcans to the Sump again? or just make another vent on the sump that goes into another tank? I run a NITTO oilpump and 0,9mm Restrictors on the feed to the head. Add a drain of the back of the head? does it help alot?