TurboTapin

I have some downtime due to winter, and just wrapped up converting the car over to flex fuel. We don't get E85 at the pump over here in Canada, but I will be running Ignite E90 Race gas. I'll be mixing it with 99-100 RON pump gas and shoot for 50% ethanol content, up to possibly 85% content if there's any noticeable gains. Here's the question. Most I'll ever want to hit is ~600rwkW. I've currently running 1200cc injectors and want to keep them under 90% duty cycle. As per some online injector calculators, I should be good with 1200's well past 600rwkw on E85. As per other calculators, I'll need 1600-2000cc's. The variety is rather amusing. With you Australians having E85 at the pump, what realistic duty cycles are you seeing in those kW ranges on E50 & E85 on your injectors? Thanks,

No issues here with my PRP gears in an OEM pump housing. I did confirm all housing clearances were to spec prior though. Cheers.

That's my local track! A lot of fast/record holders come out of it presumably due to our cold air in spring and fall.

That's the most absurd thing I've ever heard. I would go cut bellhousing over that monstrosity of a flywheel all day, every day. It puts a lot more mass further from the last main bearing. I've had nothing but problems with Collins in the past and refuse to ever buy their products again. I would not trust anything they tell you. He's playing his salesman card. I'm currently at 640whp on a mustang dyno (~770bhp) with the intentions of running E85 and a lot more power this upcoming spring. Cheers,

I have a radium fuel rail on my Greddy manifold and used the supplied radium fuel injector to manifold adapters (The round green things pictured). I did always wonder if you could just go ahead and use the second lower hole like you're doing... Wouldn't thicker o-rings solve your issue?

This is a simple swap when you reuse the RB20 loom and auxiliaries. I run a standalone, but if I remember right, using the RB25 ecu you only have 2 injectors to inverse. There are many DIY's on this subject online, including this forum.

I agree their STREET is limited in features, but both their RACE and PRO models have everything you could possibly need (I.E Knock, Built in EGT, Built in Wideband, Dual DBW, etc.) It's also cheaper in comparison with anything Haltech has to offer and more importantly from what I hear it actually works well. I'm a little bias these days as Haltech has really turned into a pile of poop lately.. I don't know what's happening with their firmware team but I'm thinking it's outsourced and their cutting costs. There's always massive bugs, they're not doing any testing, there's no revision control (I.E They acknowledged a few months back that they accidently released an unfinished firmware). It feels like they're being run by bean counters vs actual software & electrical engineers. They seem to be to busy releasing new products as opposed to fixing software issues. As of 2-3 weeks ago they started a beta program to presumably op the rest of the end users out of unwillingly testing firmware's. I'm happy they're starting to listen to all the complaints. Hopefully it gets better fast.

I've personally heard nothing but good things about them. With Haltech using the end user as beta testers and the sheer amount of firmware bugs that have been coming out the last year; If I could do it all over again, Maxx would of been an option.

Send your oil out for analysis for peace of mind.

These are marketed for shops over here in North America. They're called "Bag in a box" oil. It's not very popular as most shops just stick to barrels and metered oil guns. I've never seen these used or sold for at home use, although the one in the video does seem a tad smaller.

That's generally how I handle it. I was surprised in NGK's response though. They stated on the low end, people replace them every pass and on the higher end, once a season. I'm confident I can keep them much longer than that as it's not a dedicated race car.

Sounds good, thanks for the explanation. I'm not on stock height coils, so I doubt 34's would be an option but I'll measure to confirm. Reason I ask is the 36's have been discontinued since the beginning of 2023. NGK has no direct replacement. I just ordered another spare set. Thanks!

I've been running R7436's with R35 coil packs on my RB28. I was wondering what made you jump over to R7434's with the R35's coil packs? Thanks,

Like @Dose Pipe Sutututu mentioned, 10W30 on a built motor would not be a great idea. As for the steel wool, we think alike as I went ahead and put SS wool into my catch can as per my above posts.

Compression test is good. Leak down is same across the board but could be lower. It's a loose engine, I specifically asked my builder to build it on the loose side as I was planning on running 35+psi. I'm also growing more convinced it's blowby. My engine builder wanted me to do the good old oil in cylinder then compression test to see if it goes up so I'll go ahead and do a cold, hot and hot with oil compression test to see. I also went ahead and filled my catch can with stainless steel wool to see if it accumulates anything now. I'll report back in 200-300km's.