TurboTapin

Have you gotten under the car to look for anything that can rattle? I bet you it's a heat shield.

If you're really into oil, here's a youtube channel I watch a fair bit. It's literally just about motor oil haha The Motor Oil Geek - YouTube

On a cold engine, those numbers look more then fine to me.

I've also heard good things about the Mazworks. Does it center the shifter properly like milling the bell housing does? The serial 9 shifter takes some time to get use to. It's hard to blame the shifter though, by design 5 and 6 on a CD009 are very close to 3rd and forth. It's very easy to shift into 3rd instead of 5th.

I had the same issue come up on the weekend. It was a pain to push the new stopper back in!

Haha luckily we don't have emissions, inspections, or any laws against power adders here. They only thing they somewhat keep an eye out for are ridiculously loud exhausts.

I finally got around to completing my WMI SS direct port tubing. I ordered a snow performance 6 port manifold but it seems they are now owned by Nitrous Express. It has the NX logo on both sides. I'm expecting this to lead to a lot of unwanted nitrous questions 😅

Your local Nissan dealership should always be your first go to. Get your parts from the source, without the middle man. I also recommend you start an account at your dealership, I get 15% off with mine. You would be appalled with some of the mark ups I see from third party distributors (200%+)

If ever you have any other questions, reply to one of my messages so I get the notification. I only saw your message now. Cheers!

Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it. I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then. On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.

I welcome any basic question that can help haha. Yes it has 2 unis but the driveshaft is a one piece and the unis are welded without a slip yoke at each end. What's funny is anytime I've ever had wheel vibrations it's always been in the front so I automatically assume it will lead to steering wheel shake and not chassis vibration. With that being said, I never considered looking at my rear wheel balance... I have doubts though as this wasn't an issue before I pulled the motor and trans but is still very much worth a look. I'll do that tonight after work. Thanks.

Thanks! I have my driveshaft currently off, but length will vary greatly due to how you adapt the CD to your engine. If by front of yoke to rear flange you mean overall length then it's 56 3/4" long.

Yea my thought was tighter engine when hot is more load a poor ground connection can't take. On that note, I had time to check my driveshaft verical alignment tonight, it's +2 and -2 at either end, so thats perfect and how I had set it up last year. What would be the easiest way to check horizontal alignment between my diff and transmission? I can think of a few ways but they're all complicated and I feel like I'm overthinking it. I'm hoping it's that as I can't see any other reason why I have developed driveline vibration since I put the motor back in.

Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.

Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep. I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups.