TurboTapin

I was under the impression that Haltech does not allow the use of their GPS speed for traction control. It must be wheel speed sensors.

If you're unaccustomed to engine internals and noises, you should cease driving it and seek a local mechanic. You only seem to be assuming it's lifters based on very little information. "Marbles" does not sound good.

Aftermarket cams are sometimes marked with make or model. OEM's also have paint marks on them which I don't believe aftermarket companies do.

For the 10 seconds it takes, pop the valve cover off and take a look. If they're stock, plug it back in. If they're aftermarket and not VCT friendly. Replace them and then plug it back in. May have been unplugged for other reasons as well (Noisy VCT cam gear!?)

Oh, I misunderstood your original post. Why not just replace your original cluster with the Microtech? It will look heaps better than a Frankenstein cluster or a digital dash sitting in front of your original cluster (Hate seeing this, huge pet peeve of mine) and will be much easier to do.

If you're removing your original cluster to replace it with the microtech dash, also keep in mind that you will need to add a resister for alternator excitation and fuel low lamp. You will also need a diode for doors ajar lamp. Everything else is pretty straight forward.

I just bought green day dookie on cassette tape. Been listening to that on my Walkman plugged into aux.

I love your posts more and more. I'm actually also starting to think you're not a real person.

Most if not all manufacturers also have time intervals for oil changes. They seem to always be 6 or 12 months. I would never let oil sit 2-3 years in an engine.

Thanks! Here's the parts I used. Prices in CDN which is very close to AUD. Cheers! CD00A Transmission - 2600$ RB/CD009 Adapter - 600$ RB/CD009 Driveshaft - $600 Nissan 32mm Release bearing - 40$ Speedtek 3.33 Final Drive - 750$ CD009 Slave cylinder - 50$ Serial nine CD999 Shifter - 600$

Haha, summer all year round you say? Count me in!

Thanks, happy to help!

I had some time so I figured I'd document this, as information out there is very piecemeal and scattered. There's 2 methods of doing this conversion. First method is using an adapter flywheel with original bell housing and second is using regular RB flywheel with milled down bell housing. This will document the second method. I find there's a lot more pro's then con's with the milled bellhousing method for the following reasons. 1. You're not stuck with a specific flywheel made by only one company. You can use any regular RB flywheel. 2. You cannot purchase an off the shelf twin plate clutch due to flywheel limitations. 3. Adapter flywheels are a fair bit longer. I dislike the idea of adding weight further from the crank and main bearing. 4. Shifter sits a lot closer to original location. 5. You can avoid having to deal with dumpster fire companies like Collins Adapters. Lets start. First step, purchase a CD00A transmission from your local dealer. If memory serves me right, I paid 2600$CDN in July 2022. Remove the bits you wont need as you'll need a different shifter kit. Next we'll need to remove the bell housing to have to milled down. Remove the front cover bolts and front cover. Remove the circlip and bearing (Not pictured). Lastly, remove the hidden bolt under the shift linkage cover. This process is well documented in many Youtube videos so I won't delve more into it. Bell housing will come off with some love from a rubber mallet afterwards. Once removed, drop it off at your local machine shop to have them mill it down 15mm. Before and after picture below. The starter on an RB does not sit in the same location on the CD009 transmission so the bellhousing needs to be massaged a tad to fit. Some just notch it out completely, but I find it a hack job. I removed just enough meat for it to fit. I also recut a drain path for oil/water in the original location. Next was to reinstall the bell housing and my shifter kit. I went with the SerialNine CD999 Technical shifter. From my findings, it's the closest to sit in the factory location. Lastly for the transmission, you'll need to measure which release bearing will fit. X-Clutch (Australian Clutch Services) has a nice TSB documenting how to measure it. TSB-203.pdf I required a 32mm release bearing with an X-Clutch twin disk. Expect much longer with a single plate clutch. Here's a list of Nissan release bearing lengths and part numbers. If you require more, Collins does sell a 42mm release bearing. Part number-------------Size 30501-A3800------------12 mm 30501-N1600------------14 mm 30501-U200-------------16 mm 30501-S0200------------18 mm 30501 -B6000-----------20 mm 30501-S0160------------22 mm 30501-K0401------------24 mm 30501-K0510------------26 mm 30501-N1600------------28 mm 30501-N8400------------30 mm 30501-U8500------------32 mm With the transmission ready, I got to work on the car. Install your adapter plate of choice on the engine. I went with a Collins adapter, but knowing what I know why; I would avoid them like the plague. As the CD009 transmission is a lot bulkier, you will also need to enlarge two areas in the transmission tunnel for it to fit. First, the area where the bellhousing and adapter plate meet (Not pictured) and second, where the tunnel narrows down for the transmission mount. This took a fair bit of work with an air hammer and back and forth with the transmission in place. It's very tight but it fits. Next up, is to finally get the transmission installed. It was a must for me to have to drop my motor a tad lower by loosening the 4x subframe nuts. Be careful with this as you don't want your motor and subframe to drop to the ground. Just before fabbing a mount, you'll need to measure and adjust your transmission angle in comparison with your differential. You're looking for equal and opposite. As my diff flange sat 2 degree's up, I adjusted the motor/transmission angle to be 2 degree's down. I fabbed up a mount bracket with 2" flat bar and a GKTech RB trans rubber mount. The RB and CD009 mount holes are identical and it bolts right up. Lastly I had to trim the shifter hole a tad. The shifter sits in the original location, but still required trimming for the base. I made another plate to cover it and then covered it with sound deadening. And that should wrap it up. Now, sit back and enjoy your 6 speed that should in theory support 1000hp! One last thing I wanted to add is that the CD009 is not a great match for the 4.1-4.3 final drives you find on most skylines. I went ahead and popped in a speedtek 3.3 final drive, but I did drive it with a 4.3 for a short period of time. 1st-4th gears were useless and I'd cruise around 50kmh in 5th gear.

FiXtUrE after reading your comment.

First time I see "Rear main seal" acronymized as RMS. I had to google it... low and behold it's a Porsche thing. Learn something new every day.

Where in that image do you see plug leads? NGK, OEM or otherwise... Please circle it, I'm curious.

I second this. He's the perfect example of the Dunning–Kruger effect.

I started life off as an electrician before continuing my education in electrical engineering. With that being said, 9/10 times an electrician will get paid more then an engineer in Canada. Why you ask? Because everyone's an engineer now... and 80% of them don't know how a drill works or how to troubleshoot diddly squat. They all end up working in non technical fields like project management.

I'm running 350Z Track edition Brembo's with 324mm discs in front on my 32 gtst. I think the calipers were 250$ a pop new. See my link below for info. R32 Skyline – Budget Brembo Brake Upgrade – GoodeZilla

@r32-25t @Dose Pipe Sutututu I would also second a 6466! Maybe go with the .84 rear if you're not shooting for the stars. I've comfortably driven street cars with a lot more lag.

Haha, I was trying my hardest not to create any boost pressure and keep it under 3000rpm as I'm still breaking it in... yet my blow off valve kept popping off 😄

First drive with it today. We have a winter tire law in affect until March 15th, but applied for an exemption this morning so I could drive it and start breaking it in. Car felt great and everything seemed good. Three things that really stuck out though... First, twin plate clutches are as terribly loud as everyone says. Second, a 1.01 6466 might have been a tad on the small side for a built RB28. It instantly spools. I would not be surprised if it made boost on idle. Good for most, but I was hoping to use the size to limit lower end torque. Lastly, I did not toss my 3.3 final drive and nismo diff in yet. A CD009 with the original 4.3 final drive is comedic to drive. 1st - 3rd gears are useless and get you to 30kmh. 4th and 5th are used to accelerate and 6th is for cruising past 70kmh. I've never shifted so many times in such a short period of time before.

Technically speaking, skids already accomplished. If you noticed I mentioned In my last post I drove it out of the garage under its own power but had to winch it back into the garage.... that's because of just skids and no traction with summer tires on snow in my driveway trying to get back into the garage 😄

Over the last few weeks, I finally wrapped up the remaining items to get the car started and drivable. Starting with my 4" downpipe. She was a tight fit. I hated having to cut up a brand new compressor housing, but it is what it is. Welded on an elbow onto my 6466 housing. After first startup, I had a decent sized oil leak from the front behind timing cover that I had one hell of a fun time locating. Ended up being my intake cam seal. Somehow it was not pushed in enough, but I was able to amend it by just removing the valve cover and cam cap. I was happy I didn't have to remove everything to get it resolved. I was also very pleased to see my CD0009 conversion with dual plate clutch seems to be working great. Collins had told me this would never work with a milled down bell housing as apposed to using their adapter flywheel. I refused to use their adapter flywheels, as I really disliked the idea of having a lot more weight hanging out further from the crank and with a milled bell housing, I could retain stock shifter location. Besides that I also rebuilt my starter as it began sticking for some reason. That's working well now as well. I heat cycled it twice, set timing offset and fuel pressure and changed the oil. I was happy to be able to drive the car out on its own after a year of pushing it out of the garage and winching it back in. Could not go further then the driveway though as it's still winter here. Should be able to drive it around the block in about 2-3 weeks. After I got it running, I installed my upgraded Nissan Quest alternator with a 5-0 Ignite adapter. Quest alternators supposedly pump out a bit more then LS alternators. Last items I have on the list is to install my Haltech IO expander that has been on backorder for the last three months. Hopefully that arrives soon. I needed more inputs for Meth injection. I also received my Greddy oil cooler and Nismo GT LSD. Should wrap up the oil cooler this weekend and hopefully pull the diff next week.

If ever you don't get around to getting these to work, part# VL4951-P24 for a jobber set of these lifters that can still be purchased. I bought a set for 200-300$ from Tog in Australia roughly a year ago. My engine machinist is the one who recommended them. Cheers.