TurboTapin

Over the last month I wrapped up most of my exhaust, fuel and ignition. Went with Radium fuel rail, damper, filter, FPR and 1200CC EV14's. Built my 3.5" catback out of an assortment of parts. Injectors needed tops removed and 14mm orings to fit. Also purchased a Nissan Quest alternator to keep up with the fuel pumps and R35 coil packs. I just have my 4" downpipe left to make to be able to start it up. It should start next weekend. I still have a fair bit of work left but it will be nice to hear it running again, it's been a long year.

For years now I've wondered what the purpose of the 4x center phillips screws is on an R32 GTR wing, and never got around to asking. Today is the day. What purpose do they serve? Screws on the actual wing and not the mounting bolts. Thanks.

Word of advice. If you're a younger gent, don't try to speed up the process by buying cheap ching chong meow ebay parts. Try and find the best bang for the buck and if it takes time, it takes time. RB20's have creeped up in price a fair bit but would also be a cheaper option then an RB25. They are fine for 300-400whp. Cheers.

Can't go wrong with OEM/Nismo parts. No noticable NVH.

Finally got around to filling my tank. My scaling ended up as 0.05V full, 1.10V empty.

We have roll over valves near the fuel tank above the diff. The 5/16 vent line goes to it before continuing to the engine bay. They are a normally open, and close when upside down.

I was trying to be polite but clearly you must of used your engineering degree to go into project management or something else non technical or you made that up because you have no idea what you're going on about. All fuel tanks are vented. Every single tank on every single car that has ever existed. Not including most tanks in general that hold liquids. That vent is required to equalize with outside pressure. For thermal expansion, so your fuel pump doesn't pull vacuum, so you can pump in gas at a gas station, etc. Cheers.

Your statement is incorrect. Your vent needs to well vent, so gas can come out the other end. You absolutely do not want to hinder that in anyway. Unfortunately with venting comes fuel vapours... Try and pour gas out of a jerry can with the vent closed. Same result.

I understand what you're saying, but by design whether you have a ball or flapper check valve, road dirt will never close it... Unless your check valve is normally closed in the direction vapour comes out which I would never do as that vapour should free flow out without restriction. Just remove it. It serves no purpose and might be causing more harm then good.

Check valve won't do anything to help against dirt unfortunately, you would require some sort of pressure for it to close. What is the second valve you mentioned? Evap purge valve?

I'm running an IC7 and Realdash. I had actually worked with Jani at Realdash to get it to work with some oem nissan ecu's over consult 2 years ago before his house unfortunately burnt down. We have not spoken since. I made the move over to Haltech but hopefully he incorporated the changes into a public release as it was 95% complete and working great.

Yea agreed, it's an orifice that drops the positive pressure or vacuum way down. In my case with a DBW throttle body, it's a different story as I don't have this nipple. As originally mentioned, I could tig a nipple onto my intercooler piping pre throttle with an appropriately sized orifice.

I have not seen a check valve on the "Signal VC" line anywhere on an R32/33. The positive pressure just pushes down on the diaphragm, closing the purge port. As for newer cars that use a purge solenoid, there's no need for the vc port as the ecu controls when to purge. We might be saying the same thing.

So I decided to test the canister and figure out exactly how it works. The top port marked "VC" that originally went to the throttle body does not react at all to pressure. It reacts to vacuum. When there's more vacuum on the VC port then there is on the purge port, it opens allowing a vacuum on the charcoal to regen the charcoal. Without this, the charcoal would become saturated from the fuel vapor going through it and into the bottom port that connects to the frame rail. With this being said, unless you pipe VC pre throttle and purge post throttle I believe your charcoal will saturate rendering the canister useless. I avoided this and the concern that the canister would not handle 35+PSI and decided to remove it and pipe the tank vent into the frame rail. In theory as you said with differential it would also open, but you require vacuum on the purge line to suck in fuel vapor so that rules out any situation outside of vacuum.

Nice car! Welcome to SAU.

It's funny you say that because we never had a 25-year import ban in Canada. Skylines and GTI-R's used to litter the streets... they were sold for peanuts as they were known as Japan's throw aways. We would laugh when we saw them as we presumed the owner was a poor high school student... times sure have changed. Here we are 15-20 years later and now that American's can buy them, we decided they're "Cool" now and worth 10x what we use to pay lol.

Thanks a lot! appreciate the kind words. I'm a big believer in buy once, cry once. I built enough cars with ebay parts in my youth to know the ramifications haha. Yea i'm always open to meet!

If you don't have DBW, I would also recommend you keep your AAC and cold start valve (AKA Air regulator) and plumb both to pre throttle body IC pipe. I plumbed mine before converting to DBW. Cheers,

TE Connectivity Part #'s. Cheers. Angle Connector: 1546347-2 Connector Pins (If ever you scrap one depinning): 66506-9 Depinning tool: 91285-1

I was wondering before I trace the wires back, if anyone knew what the purpose of the 100ohm 2watt resistor strapped to the r32 gtst active aero front lip control unit is? Unless I'm blind, it's not in the electrical drawings.

I'm a tad late to the party but here's where I ended up installing it. One oem hole, bracket to another oem hole I also use for PS reservoir. I used a 90Deg strain relief instead of the straight supplied on the 8pin connector. Cheers.

I'm confirming it's the charcoal canister vent.

I'd love to know where you're getting your information from. 5/16" (8mm) fuel hose is as good for "Well over 1000hp" as your single Bosch 040/044 pump is. Your car right now idles at 4.11 with an OEM FPR due to it's internal orifice size, your aftermarket pump and possibly your 5/16" return line. Just an fyi, base fuel pressure is measured with the vacuum line disconnected from FPR. Does what pump hanger require modding? OEM? The Radium I mentioned?

I agree a healthy 044 should be capable of handling more than 400whp, you may have multiple problems. Nismo FPR's are also on the prehistoric side and meant to be used with stock 5/16 fuel line. Which leads me to another question... are you still using the stock 5/16 fuel line? 600WHP is also asking a lot from such a small feed line. 3bar idle is standard for all RB's and 80% of engines out there. If you plan on running E85, that's a whole other ball game. Everything must be compatible (Fuel pump, injectors, line, etc.) I always recommend AEM 320/340's as I have yet to ever see or hear of one fail. I'm currently running two of them in a radium 3 pump hanger.

Hey, has anyone here recommended to OP that he change his small prehistoric and obsolete pump as they don't support 600WHP? Oh, right everyone has... multiple times. CHANGE YOUR DAMN PUMP.