TurboTapin

It's snake oil.

Just to add to this, the RB25 S1/S2 power steering pulley is 3 rib where as the RB20, RB26 & Neo have a 4 rib. This link mentions it and and the offset GTSBoy mentionned. https://www.facebook.com/RossPerformanceParts/photos/a.1384131785198180/2713886952222650/?type=3

I'm confirming this. If my memory is correct, I believe it was somewhere around 240ftlb's.

Today I tried to install my Greddy intake manifold but the R32 clutch master was in the way which I somewhat expected. Purchased the shorter R33 master which should arrive tomorrow. Meanwhile I finished up the hard tubing for my VCT and rear oil drain. Here's the pictures of the CD009/Serial Nine shifter placement I forgot to post. With new sheet metal plate that is bolted in using 4 original bolts. With Insulation mat With original boot.

I ran an RB20 with stock head gasket and bolts at 20PSI/273rwkw for two years. Was still running great when I pulled it out at the beginning of this summer.

Finally wrapped up the CD009 install. What a bitch it was getting that in, they are rather large and heavy. In hindsight, it's a somewhat easy job once you you've done it before. Spent more time measuring and confirming things then actually installing it as I was nervous getting it to work with my twin disc as Collins said it couldn't be done. I'll probably create a DIY with more details on here once I have time as I could not find much if anything about the installation process, correct release bearing, etc. when milling down the bell housing as apposed to using the longer flywheel. All I can say is an air hammer is your friend when it comes to making room. I made a mount bracket and used my GK Tech RB trans mount. To my surprise, the holes line up perfectly. The CD999 shifter sits in the original location but I did need to cut out some of the tunnel to have it fit due to its design. I'll post photos of that tomorrow. I had to drop my engine a bit to get the correct driveshaft angle (-2Deg at trans, +2deg at differential. It's great shifting a modern transmission though and that extra gear will be great.

I noticed the Nismo engine mounts had the OEM part number in the rubber but I presumed this was due to Nissan using the same mold for both but with a harder rubber for the Nismo. I didn't see the need in creating two identical molds. You gents think they are in fact identical parts ? It did cross my mind as a possibility...

Lol always the exhaust side. I wrapped mine with gold reflective tape to see if it gives it a few extra years.

I'm just wrapping up a CD009 install on an R32 and wanted to drop the front of my engine a tad to get a better driveshaft angle. I thought I'd chime in on this post with conclusive info as I have both new OEM and Nismo R32 mounts. 11220-02U03 vs 11220-RS585. I'm confirming without a doubt that they are both the exact same height and both have the same "Squish" when installed. I ended up notching my engine mounts like the RB30 guys do. The height difference people see must just be the difference between settled old mounts and new fresh mounts. Cheers.

Do not spray anything at the two points marked. You'll more then likely have a bearing under the black cap in your photo and at the other end of that shaft. Also take a look at your brushes, they may need cleaning/replacement. The brushes will be at each end of those two wires you see in your top picture.

Simple trick to finding a water ingress location...get in and have someone hose it down while you follow any streams back to their source.

Sadly I have yet to receive my 32mm release bearing carrier and my trans installation has been stalled due to it. Waiting for parts has been increasingly annoying but it's the world we live in now... I've been seeing 40+ week lead times for parts at work for things I use to pick up same day off the shelf. I figured to speed things up I'd get my 42mm Collins carrier machined down... it ended on a bad yet funny note. Brought my carrier to my local machinist. 30 minutes later he calls stating "Things have gone terribly wrong and to come by" I laughed as this is a simple 10min lathe job. I arrive and my carrier has transformed into three pieces. It seems Collins uses a 24mm carrier and press fits on another 18mm spacer onto it. The way it's done, neither my machinist or I caught onto it. We both presumed it was one piece. He basically blew through the pressed on part turning it into 2 pieces and third being the original 24mm carrier. He felt bad, I just laughed and told him it's fine... He offered to make another press on adapter but by that point I figured I should just wait for my 32mm carrier to arrive and called it a day. I did install my serial nine shifter and was very pleased. At the price these things cost I was expecting perfection and they delivered. Easy installation and shifts fantastically for such a short linkage. I went with the serial nine as it's the only one I believe that will fit in the original shifter hole without any cutting.

Sell your GT2860's and HKS turbos. Purchase two stock turbos and stock ecu and call it a day then.

So far I've been eyeing the speedtek 3.33 final drive that seems to be perfect for my application (High HP, R200 & CD009) but have not looked into it in detail yet. I'm planning on working on the rear end (Anti squat, diff, axles, etc.) once the engine bay and all rewiring is wrapped up.

I'm in Canada as well and have RB25 S1 cams I can let go for 120$ if you need. PM me if ever you need them. Cheers.

Just waiting on my serial nine shifter to arrive but I mock installed the CD009 and it seems to fit great. I'll write a DIY once I'm done. With my XClutch twin disk, I required a 32mm bearing carrier as opposed to the 42mm one Collins supplies. Fun facts, I'll give the transmission a shake test once it's back in but so far I see no need to massage the trans tunnel... it fits. Tight but fits. If you use the adapter flywheel as apposed to milling the bellhousing I have a feeling it wouldn't fit as easily though. The Collins adapter plate worked better then I thought it would but their after sales support is absolute garbage and I refuse to ever purchase another one of their products.

I'm using the slave cylinder originally meant for the CD009. Can't remember the part#, was like 90$. Nissan bearings are all the same from what I can tell, so you can use an RB or Z33. What changes is the bearing carrier aka sleeve. If you have a milled bellhousing as opposed to using the adapter flywheel, you'll need a longer carrier. Bearing and carrier sit further in the CD009 thus requiring a longer one. If you remove exactly 14mm from your bell housing, and plan on using a single plate, Collins sells a 42mm carrier that should work. I have one if ever you need it. With a twin plate due to it being thicker I required a 32mm. Nissan part# 30501-U8584. I plan on making a DIY on here once I'm done as I couldn't find a single one for RB's. I'm just waiting on my serial nine shifter to arrive to toss everything back in. For now, go see my build thread; I've posted some info there. Cheers.

I'm only using their adapter plate with a milled down bellhousing as apposed to also using their adapter flywheel. There's a lot of advantages and no disadvantages of going this route in my opinion. No idea if it's been revised over the years. So far the adapter plate itself has been decent. I've already mock fitted the transmission and everything works. With that being said, Collins Instructions and after sales support are hands down the worst I've ever seen and just for that alone I would not buy from them again. I had more questions then answers after reading their instructions. Their technical writer should be fired. I sent multiple emails, only one was answered by someone who I believe was drunk as I could not understand a lick of it. Phone calls went unanswered. Who ever manages their after sales support should also be fired.

XClutch/Australian clutch services got back to me. Their support is top notch and quick. They confirmed that air gap should be >= to 5mm and travel should be >= to 10mm. With that info, I'll replace my 42mm carrier with a 32mm bumping up my air gap to 12mm and call it a day.

I was wondering if the general consensus is still that cracked blocks are a 4WD issue only or has that opinion changed over the years?

Just wrapping up a CD009 install with an x clutch twin plate. The 42mm release bearing carrier that Collins supplies is made for a single plate clutch and gives me roughly 2mm of air gap. I'm concerned this is too little and that once I install the slave cylinder it will ride on the pressure plate fingers. Nissan's next size down is 32mm which would give me 12mm air gap. I could also have my Collins carrier machined to whatever I like. What airgap do Nissans generally run? I cannot find it listed anywhere. I've never had to pay much attention to this in the past. I'm also waiting on a response from X Clutch. So options are 2mm, 12mm or machine carrier for custom value. Thanks.

That's the one. Cheers.

It's in the trunk between both tail lights behind cover. It's green.

Which FPCM wire is not getting 12VDC? Your fuel pump 12V does not go through FPCM. Both are separately powered by your fuel pump relay which is powered by #8 15A fuse.

Out of sheer curiosity, what power levels are you guys chasing with billet blocks?