TurboTapin

Which FPCM wire is not getting 12VDC? Your fuel pump 12V does not go through FPCM. Both are separately powered by your fuel pump relay which is powered by #8 15A fuse.

Out of sheer curiosity, what power levels are you guys chasing with billet blocks?

I'm presuming by ICM you mean igniter? And by fuel control module, the FPCM in the boot? There's not many links between all three that would not cause a bunch of other things not to work. Check your 30A fuses in the engine bay fuse box.

Agreed. Forums > Facepalm. Welcome to the forum!

I picked up my milled bellhousing yesterday. Just finished notching it out for my starter. I'm going to use the bellhousing to massage my trans tunnel tomorrow before reassembling the trans. Hopefully my X Clutch twin arrives soon. This is my last big step before I can wrap everything up engine wise.

You can only use the JWT adapter with their flywheel. As I'm running a twin disc, I'm avoiding this by milling my bell housing down. Cheers.

I've never had to disassemble a new transmission before... It felt wrong. I'll get the bell housing milled down this week.

I received my adapter plate and picked up my transmission from the dealer today. Still waiting on the x clutch twin plate to arrive. I'll be removing the bellhousing tomorrow to get it milled down 14mm next week. While it's off I'll also do some test fitment and adjust my trans tunnel if needed. New large boxes from the dealer are always fun.

How is that 3.7 treating you?

Keep this up and I'll end up doing my doctoral dissertation on oil caps... "Oil cap variations and its adaptive consequences on society"

Since I really take this oil cap science seriously I decided to take this even further... I confirmed with Nissan EPC that both older and newer style nissan oil caps (15255-1P103 & 15255-1P110) fit all RB25's. I then realized I have three Nissan's with both of these caps in the driveway so I did what any grown man would do... I ran out and interchanged them. They all fit. Btw while on the topic, the newer caps (1P110) that I have on my Sentra and Rogue are garbage and can never be undone by hand. Cheers.

As a sanity check, I verified a few popular brands like HKS, Nismo, Top Secret, Tomei, etc. and all have the same part# for S1, S2 or Neo. Are we sure they're not the same? Because I'm pretty sure they're the same...

My understanding is all Nissan oil caps are M32 x P3.5, including S1, S2 and Neo RB25's. What makes you think they are different?

No clutch leave you stranded? It's definitely a pity to drive but any manual car can be started and shifted through all gears without a clutch. In my youth, I had a buddy run an 88 civic without a clutch pedal for 6 months before he could afford a new clutch cable lol. Why buy a clutch cable when you could buy smokes and beer... priorities when young and stupid lol.

Test your IACV as per your service manual. If it's a dud, I've found a few used/new for sale online...

Pop your sparkplugs out and confirm you're not getting fuel while cranking please.

1 - What fuse was that exactly? Missing details here. Might not even be related... 2 - If you're changing injectors, what ecu are you running? My train of thought here is for whatever reason you decided to change to 550's and you're still running a stock ecu/tune. If so, 30$ says you're issue is not no fuel, it's too much fuel... and you're engine is flooded. Just pop your sparkplugs out and see if they're wet and check if you have fuel sitting in your cylinders after cranking. This would also explain why it wouldn't start when you went back to the stock 380cc's.

Pin 1 to Pin 2 is your coil. Pin 3 to Pin 5 is a N/O contact. With no 12 VDC present on Pin 1 & 2, PIN 3-5 contact will be open. With 12VDC, contact will be closed.

Not a problem, I'll post them here when I get around to doing it. I'm using a radium fuel pump hanger though so results might vary a tad. Cheers!

Hey, no need to pull the hanger out. You can see the voltage on the ic7. I'll empty tank, note voltage. Fill tank, note voltage and then scale accordingly. Cheers!

Small addition to my post above. This morning I noticed my door ajar light was turning on occasionally when it shouldn't. I had a stray 8vdc being fed back from ground side with key out. After taking a closer look at the original cluster, I noticed nissan was actually aware of this as they added a diode. I tossed in a 1N4007 and it's resolved.

Been busy with yardwork. Just finished another 12'x14' paving stone deck for the fire place... 120lb stones are not pleasant to put down. The weight never crossed my mind when I told the salesman I want the big ones. I'm a fool. A fool who now has three decks for some reason. The wife is also in her third trimester so that's also been keeping me busy. Been doing odd ends on the car as well, finally wrapped up the IC7 dash and LED indicators today. Everything works great, will just have to scale my fuel level at a later date. Looks much better then I expected.

A recent realization of mine is that depending on whether you mill 15mm off the bellhousing or go with a thicker flywheel to adapt for the CD trans, the latter probably is the cause of having to notch out the trans tunnel hole. No idea why I never made the connection before but here we are.

They don't put them there for nothing. The three bolts cost all of 5$. Use them.

If you're in Canada just go to your local Nissan dealer for parts. We're one of the few country's that seems to still be able to order JDM parts through dealer. Cheaper as well as there's no middle man. I get small things that are cheap to ship from Amayama when I'm too lazy to drive over to the dealers. Cheers.