TurboTapin

I agree their STREET is limited in features, but both their RACE and PRO models have everything you could possibly need (I.E Knock, Built in EGT, Built in Wideband, Dual DBW, etc.) It's also cheaper in comparison with anything Haltech has to offer and more importantly from what I hear it actually works well. I'm a little bias these days as Haltech has really turned into a pile of poop lately.. I don't know what's happening with their firmware team but I'm thinking it's outsourced and their cutting costs. There's always massive bugs, they're not doing any testing, there's no revision control (I.E They acknowledged a few months back that they accidently released an unfinished firmware). It feels like they're being run by bean counters vs actual software & electrical engineers. They seem to be to busy releasing new products as opposed to fixing software issues. As of 2-3 weeks ago they started a beta program to presumably op the rest of the end users out of unwillingly testing firmware's. I'm happy they're starting to listen to all the complaints. Hopefully it gets better fast.

I've personally heard nothing but good things about them. With Haltech using the end user as beta testers and the sheer amount of firmware bugs that have been coming out the last year; If I could do it all over again, Maxx would of been an option.

Send your oil out for analysis for peace of mind.

These are marketed for shops over here in North America. They're called "Bag in a box" oil. It's not very popular as most shops just stick to barrels and metered oil guns. I've never seen these used or sold for at home use, although the one in the video does seem a tad smaller.

That's generally how I handle it. I was surprised in NGK's response though. They stated on the low end, people replace them every pass and on the higher end, once a season. I'm confident I can keep them much longer than that as it's not a dedicated race car.

Sounds good, thanks for the explanation. I'm not on stock height coils, so I doubt 34's would be an option but I'll measure to confirm. Reason I ask is the 36's have been discontinued since the beginning of 2023. NGK has no direct replacement. I just ordered another spare set. Thanks!

I've been running R7436's with R35 coil packs on my RB28. I was wondering what made you jump over to R7434's with the R35's coil packs? Thanks,

Like @Dose Pipe Sutututu mentioned, 10W30 on a built motor would not be a great idea. As for the steel wool, we think alike as I went ahead and put SS wool into my catch can as per my above posts.

Compression test is good. Leak down is same across the board but could be lower. It's a loose engine, I specifically asked my builder to build it on the loose side as I was planning on running 35+psi. I'm also growing more convinced it's blowby. My engine builder wanted me to do the good old oil in cylinder then compression test to see if it goes up so I'll go ahead and do a cold, hot and hot with oil compression test to see. I also went ahead and filled my catch can with stainless steel wool to see if it accumulates anything now. I'll report back in 200-300km's.

Thanks. I agree, looking at those plugs in conjunction with good compression/leak down tests I'm not too certain its ring related anymore. I have a Swagelok ball valve on the drain and tubed it lower down to the left side of car to easily dump it into a container. I do not drain back into the sump. I've never had to drain it though as there's never been any oil in it.

The older revisions did have Synchro issues. It was resolved by Nissan, but I do agree with you on the weighing in the costs and gearset point. Like anything, people will always find a way to break things!

Aww, thanks for the explanation! I'll sleep smarter tonight.

Continuing with my search, I started wondering why my catch can never has a drop of oil in it... I've never had a motor, especially a looser built engine have zero oil in a catch can. I find it even more odd as there's clearly oil vapour coming out of the catch can ventilation filter when the engine is idling, let alone running hard (My car smells like an old oily rag). I run an ATP catch can that fits nicely into the ABS spot. I decided to take the inlet filters off to see the inside baffling. Nothing, nada, completely open. Ok ok, so that's not entirely true... I shine light into the AN ports and i cannot see it coming through where I removed the filter. I'm thinking they welded in a plate in front of the AN ports to act as a baffle between the ports and the rest of the catch can. The catch can filter itself was saturated with oil and yet none in the catch can... makes me think that small baffle plate isn't doing much. Maybe my oil consumption is actually blow by and it's just venting out the catch can into the engine bay as a fine mist. Like I mentioned above, there's visible fumes coming out of the can/filter at idle so the engine is in fact breathing but catch can is well.. not catching. I always filled my other cans with stainless steel wool to trap the oil, so I'll go pick some up tomorrow and do the same. If I see the catch can does start to fill after this, I'll look into upgrading my valve cover baffles. It's a stretch, but I'll try anything at this point.

Haha yea sorry, metrification happened in Canada around the same time as Australia but I'm still stuck somewhere in the middle. I run my WMI ON/No fault condition as 4D for my ignition/fuel maps and boost levels. No dangers running without, I tuned both like you would with E85. I'm running conventional Driven HR1 15W50. I always wondered where the Kebabtech reference comes from for Haltech? So I ran without WMI for roughly 30kms today, plugs look the same. Hmm. I would expect them to be wet with that much oil consumption. The mystery continues...

What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny.

Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done. Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture... Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening. Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues. Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping. Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.

Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar. Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol.

Yes, it's similar length.

I'll add 2-3% more fuel to cyl6 and recheck the plug again afterwards. As for Cyl4, I also believe it's oil unfortunately. Valve seals are new and motor doesn't smoke on startup or ever really so I'm presuming it's ring related and only smokes slightly at WOT. I'm currently speaking to my engine builder and at his request, just sent the same spark plug photos, my target AFR tables and a few logs. We'll see what he says tomorrow. Engine still runs great, so I'm not overly concerned. At worst, I'll pull the block this winter and get rings checked and cylinders rehoned. Thanks again!

Yes. Greddy intake. I put the injectors that flowed the most in order from cyl 6-1.

I would love some other opinions on reading my plugs. For reference, these are NGK R7436-8 on 94AKI Pump gas & 50/50 WMI. Cylinder 6 starting from the right. Although EGT's are equal across cylinders, 6 seems to be running the hottest. I may add fuel to that cylinder. Cyl4 (Center) seems to be the darkest. Either too much fuel or possible oil? Cylinder 1 starting on the left. Cylinder 1 starting on the left.

I'll go ahead and replace it then just for peace of mind. I've never seen my coolant temps go over 82C, so like you said, should be fine. Cheers!

Wrapped up my catback modifications this morning. I'm loving the pie cut turn down and oval muffler.

I noticed a few cracks in my fan today, which lead me to this post. Has anyone actually seen a fan explode? Is the GKTech replacement still no bueno?

The official serialnine instructional video shows it as being installable in the car, but it's going to be a pain on an R32 as room is very tight. I run a CD999 in my R32 and I have doubts it can be done. From the looks of it, I believe it will still work fine with a cut shaft, but maybe give serialnine a call to confirm.