TurboTapin

I just wrapped up buzzing each pin and wow I see what you mean. I was rather surprised by a few oddities found. I'll toss it all into an excel and post it here at some point this week.

Nissan R32-R34 ecu pinout's don't show all pin connections with the elite 2500. One example of this is Pin 113 which is usually a "N/C" but is connected to Pin B17 on Elite 2500. Pin B17 is surprisingly not even mentioned in the Haltech adaptor manual. That makes for a spare DPO or ignition driver that I can use pinning directly into the stock ecu connector. It also doesn't show which grounds are jumped within the adaptor, etc. Cheers.

Thanks a lot! That's a lot more complete then what I found. Cheers.

Need a hand. I was about to start redoing my stock wiring harness for my elite 2500/P&P adaptor and can't seem to find a wiring diagram that shows what pin on the elite is connected to what pin on the stock ecu harness with the adaptor. The Haltech adaptor wiring diagram only shows from the elite connector to connector going into ecu adaptor and not on stock ecu connector which in my opinion is useless. I know I can just presume what pin it is on based on the descriptions or test them one by one but this wiring diagram must surely already exist? Thanks

Good evening Gents, In 2022, which RB/CD009 shifter relocation kit comes most recommended? Do any of the shifter relocations actually manage to get the shifter back within the shifter tunnel without cutting? GK seems to require cutting, how about the new Serialnine CD999? Thanks.

Pulled out my good old trusty RB20/HY35 setup. My garage is a mess but luckily I have a few people coming to buy most of it tomorrow. Stupid what people are willing to spend on these now... A complete RB20 & trans went for 1500$ on a good day 3-4 years ago.

Happy we're all on the same page! He's a great and very well known builder in the area but I believe he's overly conservative to try and cover his ass. Thanks.

Question for everyone. I'm wrapping up an RB28 build (Stroked RB25) and went with .250" gudgeon pins along with CP Pistons. I figured the extra wall thickness would come in handy down the road if ever I decide to push it further with nitrous. I'm running a complete Ferrea valvetrain and new hydraulic lifters. I had presumed at the time my hydraulic lifters would limit my RPM well before the extra gudgeon pin weight would. My machinist who has done countless RB's seems to think otherwise. I have no reason to doubt what he says, but he does tend to err on the side of caution and I just wanted a second opinion. I was planning on pushing it to a somewhat conservative 8000RPM. He said he would not be comfortable past 7400RPM due to the added rotational weight. Thoughts?

Parts started coming in this week, I was able to get most of it done today. Just waiting on my cams and a couple other things. Need to go to my local dealer and order a CD009/A so I can start on that in-between other things.

Aww yes I have the stage 1.5 crackle tune but unfortunately couldn't afford the pop part. I'm going to pop chip my ecu soon though.

Still waiting on parts, they should start arriving this week. Mocked up my PRP crank trigger while I wait. Have a question for everyone, I've been hearing different opinions then what I had originally presumed. Is anyone running/building RB's with .250" thick wrist pins? If so, what are you revving them up too? Have you limited the RPM due to the added rotational weight? Thanks

Took awhile but I finally got my block back from my machinist/assembler. I can finally continue with the build. Realized my ARP RB25 balancer bolt doesn't fit. It's a spool RB25-RB28 stroker kit but it must be identical to their RB26 stroker kit and have the crank sized for an M18 RB26 bolt and not an M16 RB25 bolt. Never thought of this when I ordered it but it makes sense. I just wish they would have listed it in the description. I'm off to order another one of those and a few last remaining parts.

I could repair this for you in 30 minutes but the head would have to come off. Call your local machinists/fabricators who could Tig this back together and retap. Don't worry about it, this is a rather simple repair. Cheers.

You can actually charge 12V batteries. They do 2-24V. Now would I actually use one on any of my batteries? Not a chance.

Kudos Motorsports: Japanese Performance & Servicing Parts Specialist

Those are 30+ year old battery chargers. I doubt it would be worth much if anything today. Cheers.

I've used the one from Kudo with no issues. Cheap and can't go wrong with NTK. Cheers.

I searched and could not seem to find much. Is anyone running a GKTech's R32 weld in anti squat reduction kit? I was curios to know what people thought of the placement and steel gauge? Thanks. S13 240sx/R32 Skyline subframe anti-squat reduction weld in kit (gktech.com)

That is the thermoswitch connector that controls the ac(overheat) fan, not the fan motor itself. The jumper is there so the fan runs constantly. Do not put it back. What's the condition of your rad, shroud and rad fan? This may have been done to test your ac fan or alleviate overheating issues but that's a seperate issue.

Have not seen many electrical tools mentioned so here are two I like. I'll see what else I can come up with. 1. Connecter depinning tools. I often see people stabbing away with a flat screwdriver only to crack and destroy their old connectors. 2. Cable tie gun. This will tighten and cut cable ties in one shot. Very practical and quick when you have 100's to do.

There's a few things on that fuse with the highest load being the AC condenser fan. Take a look at the electrical drawings.

Was back in the garage today. Started off with the installation of my Nitto head drain. Installation is pretty straight forward. Knocked the welch plug out. Drilled 13/64 and tapped M6x1. Cleaned it out thoroughly afterwards. As per the instructions, I put oil resistant gasket maker on the drain and thread sealant on the bolts and tightened it up. Lastly my driveway is on a slant so I cannot push cars up into the garage. I installed a winch in the garage to pull in any cars that can't move under their own power (engineless, etc.) or that are equipped with summer tires in the winter. Skyline got stuck in the driveway last winter when I pulled it out to do an oil change on my daily driver... When it came time to drive it back in, tires would just spin on the ice/snow. Had to wait 2 days, and get two of my neighbors to help push it in. I don't want this happening again... I had to weld up a bracket and punch in 4x studs into the cement but came out great. I'll be using my lawn tractor battery as it serves no purpose in the winter.

Agreed. With so many options of what it could be (Washer fluid, blinker fluid, tinniest meth injection kit, etc.) it would have been great to be able to trace it one foot further to its destination but unfortunately OP's trunk must not open.

As already mentioned, rear washer hose.

Little update, finished my external fuel pump harness. I'll label it tomorrow.