TurboTapin

Test your IACV as per your service manual. If it's a dud, I've found a few used/new for sale online...

Pop your sparkplugs out and confirm you're not getting fuel while cranking please.

1 - What fuse was that exactly? Missing details here. Might not even be related... 2 - If you're changing injectors, what ecu are you running? My train of thought here is for whatever reason you decided to change to 550's and you're still running a stock ecu/tune. If so, 30$ says you're issue is not no fuel, it's too much fuel... and you're engine is flooded. Just pop your sparkplugs out and see if they're wet and check if you have fuel sitting in your cylinders after cranking. This would also explain why it wouldn't start when you went back to the stock 380cc's.

Pin 1 to Pin 2 is your coil. Pin 3 to Pin 5 is a N/O contact. With no 12 VDC present on Pin 1 & 2, PIN 3-5 contact will be open. With 12VDC, contact will be closed.

Not a problem, I'll post them here when I get around to doing it. I'm using a radium fuel pump hanger though so results might vary a tad. Cheers!

Hey, no need to pull the hanger out. You can see the voltage on the ic7. I'll empty tank, note voltage. Fill tank, note voltage and then scale accordingly. Cheers!

Small addition to my post above. This morning I noticed my door ajar light was turning on occasionally when it shouldn't. I had a stray 8vdc being fed back from ground side with key out. After taking a closer look at the original cluster, I noticed nissan was actually aware of this as they added a diode. I tossed in a 1N4007 and it's resolved.

Been busy with yardwork. Just finished another 12'x14' paving stone deck for the fire place... 120lb stones are not pleasant to put down. The weight never crossed my mind when I told the salesman I want the big ones. I'm a fool. A fool who now has three decks for some reason. The wife is also in her third trimester so that's also been keeping me busy. Been doing odd ends on the car as well, finally wrapped up the IC7 dash and LED indicators today. Everything works great, will just have to scale my fuel level at a later date. Looks much better then I expected.

A recent realization of mine is that depending on whether you mill 15mm off the bellhousing or go with a thicker flywheel to adapt for the CD trans, the latter probably is the cause of having to notch out the trans tunnel hole. No idea why I never made the connection before but here we are.

They don't put them there for nothing. The three bolts cost all of 5$. Use them.

If you're in Canada just go to your local Nissan dealer for parts. We're one of the few country's that seems to still be able to order JDM parts through dealer. Cheaper as well as there's no middle man. I get small things that are cheap to ship from Amayama when I'm too lazy to drive over to the dealers. Cheers.

I order a fair amount of parts from Japan(Amayama) and it takes roughly 2-3 days to arrive in Quebec snail mail. 1 day if you pay extra. If you're in Australia which is much closer, should take half that.

This is one of the reasons I decided to go Haltech IC-7/GPS Speed. Unfortunately it's expensive work around.

Finally recieved the last parts I needed to wrap up the engine and pop it back into its hole. I'll try and wrap up the IC7 dash install tomorrow.

Thanks! I purchased the mount from outsider garage. Was the cheapest one I could find and I noticed every company that sells them uses the same photo's so I'm presuming they are all coming from the same place. I copied the idea of putting the lights to the right/left of the IC7 from Mako Motorsports. I finally received my PRP cam gear yesterday so I should be able to wrap up the motor and pop it in this weekend.

I agree 100% with you. OEM R32 projectors were not originally designed for LED bulbs, nor should you expect it to be anywhere close to perfect or comparable to 2022 LED projectors. But with that being said, I still saw a very drastic improvement. I can actually see further then 5 feet in front of me. I would recommend it to anyone and everyone who owns an R32 and one of the cheapest/greatest things I did to my car. It's an improvement that may not be perfect, but it's an improvement nonetheless.

Haha we're on the same page!

Was this verified and signed off by an independent lab? If not, you're a mad man. As already mentioned, you might think you see better but in reality you don't. Your eyes are probably lying to you. The Tom Cruise movie "Eyes wide shut" was actually based on this exact situation.

Setup my IC-7 dash today. I saw a company that does roughly the same setup and I liked it enough to copy it. IC7 in a recessed cluster mount. I put 5x 12mm LED's. Battery light (With resistor in parallel), seat belt light, open door light, fuel low light and HICAS light. Yes I still rock HICAS, replaced most of it with new parts years ago and always worked well. Also bought another fancy tool Friday. Decided to upgrade my older chinese AC/DC Tig welder with an ESAB 205IC AC/DC Multi-Process welder. I've Tigged aluminum and mild steel with it so far and it's been great. My other machine was by no means bad but I'll never look back.

The little Mitsubishi sign in the middle of the CAS should not spin at all. It probably got loose somehow(!?) and spins here and there due to vibration. Even stranger is touching your CAS should not cause your engine to sound different, that's why Duncan is probably asking if it's loose. It's normal timing fluctuates a few degree's at idle. That's what controls your idle speed. You need to lock your timing prior to verifying. If your idle is swinging drastically, you most probably have a vacuum leak. Pressure test or smoke test your system.

I don't think anything short of an exorcist will resolve the CAS issues you just described but I am anxious to see it. I second the request for a video.

Looking good! Love cover colour choice.

Unfortunately with the Type K connectors at the bottom and the canbus connector on top, you need a fair amount of space. I tried both locations you mentioned with no luck. I'm either going to make a bracket to space it out near your yellow circle or near the right headlight. Cheers.

It can actually flow up into it. Capillary action up the cable into the bag. I appreciate the ideas though. Sorry to come off strong, bagging things is just a very hot topic in my field. A lot of old timers did it and it's one of those things we scream inside when we see because we know when we remove it to do it properly, you'll get covered in rusty water and whatever surprise it hides will be corroded. Cheers!

Throughout my career as an electrician and then an electrical engineering technologist, I have yet to see a plastic bag wrapped in electrical tape waterproof anything. It has the opposite effect, water gets in and stays in. I agree, It should be rather well protected with liners, but I like to err on the side of caution.