TurboTapin

With my block out to get honed, I'm just prepping all my auxiliary components in my mean time. I took my oil pump apart to inspect and repack it with assembly lube and either haven't noticed this in the past or found my answer and can't remember. What exactly is the regulator washer that the manual mentions replacing? I don't have one and from the manual it seems to seal the regulator plug to the housing but I can't see it on any pictures of new pumps either. Can anyone fill me in? I'm presuming this was phased out as I also can't find a replacement part in epc. Image of a new pump. Can't see a washer there either.

If I tossed my money in a fire and filled my transmission with sand, it would end with the same result as buying from Speedtek. Actually, that's not true... My way, I wouldn't have to deal with Speedtek's dick head of a CEO for years on end and all his lies.

Speedtek and manufacturing/QC issues go hand in hand.

These are small points I should actually add to my original post. GKtech makes an extended slave line for this conversion. It's what I use, and it works well. You'll also need a CD009 slave cylinder. S/R Chassis Z33/Z34 Conversion braided clutch line As for transmission sensors, you'll need to both extend the wiring and replace the connectors. I can't recall which is which, but one is your neutral switch and the other the reverse switch. As they are just switches, just test for continuity with your transmission in neutral or reverse to figure out which is which. Connectors: VQ35 neutral Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties VQ35 Reverse Switch Connector | Wiring Specialties

Read this article in its entirety. https://kelfordcams.com/sole-purpose-of-degreeing-your-cams?srsltid=AfmBOook1TDTA-n6_7S3mRSXD6-NROlytY3aV25ETGP7ns636p3rPJNw

Looking at his other posts, I think you're onto something.

As per Kelford and other cam manufacturers, hydraulic lifters must never be used for degreeing cams. You will get false readings due to bleed down. You either need an aftermarket solid lifter or to modify an old hydraulic lifter for this task.

Why specifically a 93? Either way, look in either Vancouver or Montreal as that is where they arrive by ship and we have a fair bit of them on the road and for sale here.

Hey, like MBS206 mentioned; I dropped off my short block and rotating assembly Monday. With a quick verification, he believes he can clear it up with just a hone and new rings but he will confirm once the rotating assembly is out. If I were you, I would either go stroker or just replace the block if it does need to be bored over to next size. Block is cheaper then forged pistons.

Got the motor out and torn down. I'll be dropping off the block Monday. Luckily the scoring on Cyl6 is much less pronounced then the pictures made it out to seem. It can barely be felt. If you pass your finger over it 10x you'll barely notice it. Hopefully by some chance it will only require a honing. I'm not in the mood to buy one size larger pistons or another block. Oddly enough my 6th cylinder with the scoring has extremely clean intake valves compared to my other 5 cylinders. I'm worried the scoring was caused by too much fuel or Water/Methanol washing the cylinder. I'll review some old logs to confirm. This was also the first time I pull an engine with the transmission still attached. It went much better then expected. I was worried my CD009 wouldn't make it easy due to its sheer size but it was much easier this way.

I purchased this one. Very well priced and works great. I was rough with it to see if it will last and had no issues. Teslong Two-Way Articulating Borescope with Light, Industrial Endoscope Inspection Camera with Articulated Probe, Flexible Mechanic Fiber Optic Snake Scope Cam for Wall Automotive Engine Inspect-5FT : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific

I've done about 4000km's on it. I'm thinking of maybe "Working" from home aka my garage this week and getting it out so I can drop it off early next week. He said bring it over right away and didn't make any excuses, so it seems like he's going to work with me on getting it resolved asap. I'll let you know what I find when I take it apart later this week.

Yes it works for both. Happy to help.

A universal ball joint removal c press kit is better money spent and will work for the Hicas ball joints. Here's a 45$ CAD Example. ATPEAM Heavy Duty Ball Joint Press Kit with 4WD Adapters | Professional 4 in 1 Ball Joint Press Removal and Installation Tool for Cars and Trucks | Universal Ball Joint Tool with Storage Case, Ball Joint & Tie Rod Tools - Amazon Canada

Just to close off this post with the cause of my oil consumption issues. Vertical scoring and glazing at the bottom of cylinder 6. I'm not happy, but at least I finally found something. I'll pull it and get it apart asap. Hopefully I don't need to go one size up in piston.

I finally got around to purchasing an actual articulating borescope. Great tool to have, I've been very impressed vs my old regular inspection camera. With that being said, sadly I finally found the cause for my oil consumption. I always had the feeling something wasn't right but compression and leak down tests were always perfect and I had already inspected the cylinders. This time i dropped each cylinder to its absolute lowest point and with the better quality camera I found this... Bottom of cylinder 6. Scoring looks deep and I'm presuming oil getting by caused the glazing. I already spoke with my assembler, and will be dropping it off as soon as I can pull the motor and get it apart. I'm just hoping it's not deep enough to require boring out from 86.5 ->87mm. Pistons aren't cheap.

Thanks for the explanation, I'll sleep a little smarter tonight! Cheers.

Hey Duncan, I've always set them up from 6 -> 1. Due to slightly higher EGT's, I also add a small amount of fuel to cylinder 6 & 5. I understand why you start at 6 but curious as to why you then continue somewhat based on firing order? Thanks

Each province differs a bit but we only do mandatory vehicle inspections here for heavy vehicles (Think Ford F350 and up). Those inspections are done by mechanics that are approved by the government. Besides that, it's a free for all as long as the car looks stock. I asked because I love seeing how engineering differs from country to country. Here in Canada, all designs must be stamped and signed before they can be brought to fruition. (I.E Bridges, structures, Electrical panels, machines, literally everything shy of a wooden table) This can only be done by a professional engineer or professional engineering technologist. Both are protected titles, but the latter having more of a limited scope in what they can stamp. To become a professional engineer, you must complete a 4-5 year bachelors degree in your field of engineering, be part of an engineering order and undergo 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and mandatory continues education. Same story for engineering technologists, but a 3 year associates degree in some form of engineering technology will suffice. If you do not comply, or pretend you're an engineer or technologist, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails, off to jail you go. If you stamp a design that fails and kills someone (I.E Bridge collapse) Off to jail you go for a very long time, your family will be ridiculed on the news, neighbours will surround your home with pitch forks and your dog will disown you. Same for specialised trades... Example Electricians must undergo 1.5 years of post high school education, 4 years of apprenticeship, testing and hold proper licences. It's for the best, but then we also wonder why we're so short on engineers and tradesmen haha. We also have professional engineers who were only school smart but have no idea how a drill works. They generally go straight into management roles out of school which is also for the best.

Out of curiosity, I believe the title of "Engineer" is not protected in Australia like it is over here. I'm curious, does Australia actually have professional engineers do vehicle inspections? If so, Jesus Christ what in the f**k.

And have one of the kids hand them over to the front while on road trips haha

Actually it's the other way around, winter is when we do the most work on our cars! Best time to do big jobs as they can't be driven. I have a winch in the garage as well to push it out and pull it in when the motors out. I've just been slacking due to the 2 hours of sleep a night I've been getting :p

That is correct. I'm using a modified ABS ring and a ZF speed sensor on my rear diff for speed input. I'm running a Haltech ecu.

Been busy with the newborn. We originally thought we were going to go for a third, but we're good with two lol. He's starting to actually sleep now so I've had some energy to work on the car. It's been parked away in the garage since late November due to winter. I went ahead and redid all my head oil drains. I originally had my front and rear head drain going into the same pipe but have since split them up. I also added an Ethanol content sensor to get ready to run E85 this summer. Tossed it on my return line. Sensor sits nicely under my intake manifold. I also have a lot of parts that came in for my rear end. I'll be swapping over to a 3.3 final drive and doing the GK teck anti squat mod. While the rear subframe is off, I'll also change every bushing. We're planning on buying another house soon with the condition that I get at a minimum a 2 door garage, so I'll wait to have more room for this. Now onto the strange things that recently happened... After changing the lower rad hose (It had been sitting in my cabinet for well over a year and was the last hose I had to replace), I let the car idle in the garage to bleed my coolant. After running for a few minutes, it started missing. Got much worst within a minute or two and then stalled and would not restart. My crank sensor decided to crap itself. No damage, no explanation, just died. I went ahead and replaced it with another ZF sensor but the heavier duty stainless model with a shield. Tossed that in and started right up. Has anyone else seen this? I hate when things fail without cause. Luckily this was a blessing in disguise... This lead me to recheck my timing. It seems I may have had a beer or two the last time I had set my TDC angle as I was off exactly 5 degrees... I miscounted a line haha. I was running 5 degrees less then commanded. It's a little embarrassing but helps explain why my dyno operator seemed to think I should be making more then 478rwkws.

I've had two suzukis in the past have an extremely hard time turning over and not starting after sitting for a few weeks. Ended up the alternator would seize up causing the starter to force. Same issue both times. Maybe they're sourcing their alternators from the same place...