TurboTapin

I use large labelled stackable storage bins (70l and 102L from same company). I have a wall in my shed lined with them of parts I don't need everyday(Spare parts, fabrication material, piping, tubing, etc.). The rest of the stuff I use more often is in smaller wall mountable bins in the garage (Plumbing, electrical, etc.).

So I've been working on the car a fair bit, doing a lot of little things. Preparing some projects for this winter, as I'm taking 13 weeks off very soon for parental leave. Have my second kid on the way and he's due any week now. I'll need something to do while he's sleeping. I also usually take the car off the road in about a month and a half, until sometime around the end of March. Still making slight adjustments to my tune, as the cold weather settles in. I've also had to start dropping boost and tire pressure as the weather gets cooler. It's getting very swirly at highway speeds. I drop to 20psi at 20C and 18psi spring pressure at 10C IAT's. I'm currently on 255 Falcon RT660's, but may look into running 275's next summer. They will fit, but barely. Might have to raise the rear a tad. I'll start redoing my exhaust Monday, as I have the week off. I currently have an oval center muffler and cannon rear muffler. I've been told more then once from people behind me that my rear bumper is going to catch on fire one day. Seems I blow 5-10 second flames after doing a pull. No clue if that's the WMI, as I've never been able to do that before with other cars. I wanted to angle my tip down a tad so flames are pointed down and away from bumper. I also wanted to take the opportunity to reconfigure my exhaust line. I'm going to move my oval muffler to the rear with a pie cut angled tip and put in a new smaller round muffler in the center. I've rocked cannon mufflers on this car for the last few years and want to transition back the oval muffler look. I've also been looking for a stainless project to try out the new solar flux I bought. I'll post pictures on Monday, should be able to wrap that up in a day. I'm also picking up another rear subframe this week. I wanted a second so that I could modify one with a gk tech anti squat reduction kit during the winter, and still be able to keep the car a roller so I can back it out of the garage if needed. I will also be caging it this winter. More on that later. Lastly, Speedtek still hasn't given me diddly squat. Every week for the last 4 weeks, they have been saying next week. They told me Friday to expect a shipping label that day to ship my two bad sets of ring and pinions back and nothing. There's definitely been more contact since I started destroying their company any chance I get on Facebook, but it's still just words without action.

Have you done a pressure test on your intake/piping? Cleaned your IACV and Cold start valve?

We've had RB's in the US and Canada literally for decades. They were always a popular S chassis swap. We could also legally import R32's into Canada back in 1999.

Don't ask questions, if you don't want to listen to the answers. It's not a good trait. As for tuning RB's and proper software and experience, it's been a thing in the US for decades.

I run a CD009. See my DIY for info on what I spent. 6800$ isn't cheap, but it's not terrible either. Keep in mind, you'll still need the following parts. - Shifter relocation kit - Trans Mount - Driveshaft - Slave Cylinder - Rear final drive (This doesn't have to be done right away.) - Some new way to detect speed.

Agreed. Thing has to be running absolutely pig rich as well. I would worry a lot less about your idle and start going through all your electrical before the car burns down.

What in the absolute mind f**k. Generally speaking, you cannot diesel a petrol engine without sparkplugs which you don't have since you're disconnecting battery.... Something is very fishy here.

Yes that will work.

There's a few other differences between S1/S2 that you will have to deal with, including either using an S2 coil pack harness or modifying your S1 coil harness to bypass the igniter. So short answer to your question, just buy an S1 ecu. They're probably giving the things away now. Long answer to your question, yes it can probably be done, but refer back to short answer for best option. I would never use an RB25 ECU to run an RB20. Cheers,

Your engine won't shut off with ignition if your MAF is unplugged? I want to confirm I'm reading that right.

The coil packs have built in igniters.

Anytime I still have a small amount of new oil left after an oil change on one of our cars, I dump it into a container. It's a concoction of different weights that I like to believe evens out to a 10W-30. I do an oil change every year on both my tractor and mower using that oil. Mower is at least 12 years old, and my tractor is about 5 and sat 2 weeks under 10 feet of water. Both still run great!

Ring & pinions are not interchangeable between long and short nose. Pinion is longer in a long nose diff. Cheers.

My comment was aimed at the mention of possibly using hydraulic lifter based cams with solid lifters. I make a lot more then 600hp. It has nothing to do with power. Cam/Lobe profiles differ between hydraulic and solid lifters. Kelford stated their hydro lifter cams cannot be used with solid lifters. Kelford will probably recommend their 244-A2 cams for your goals. Cheers.

I also intend to go solid lifter at some point with my S1 RB25. I asked Kelford if I could use my S1 VCT 264/272 (246-A2) cams and they said no. They recommended that I use their 244 NEO cams.

It can be replaced with off the shelf hose from any automotive parts store. Keep in mind there's an orifice in that hose.

That ecu will work. Just swap around the IO you need in the ecu. Look up Rb25/R32 conversion DIY's and they document which pins or I/O need swapped in the ecu.

I'm not entirely certain what your end goal is but if it's just to pop in an RB25 into an R32 using stock components, R32 and R33 loom both use the same ecu connector. Use the R32 loom and R33 ECU. You will have some minor changes to make to the ecu pinout though.

Would that not be a good candidate for a reweld/line bore?

LTFT is a useful tool, but always ask yourself why it's correcting first (I.E is it being too aggressive? is it fighting with decel?). Also more importantly, manually smooth out your fuel map afterwards as it will make it ugly and lumpy after applying.

Set your decel fuel cut to disable 1000rpm before your idle and you'll be fine with it on.

If you send me your tune, I'll take a look and let you know if anything funky stands out.

Was the car previously in a country with mandatory DRL's? Might have been a poor attempt at having them.

I've also been going back and forth on these... but seeing them on an actual car now, I think I'll get them. They look much better then I expected. What LED bulbs do these use? Easily replacable for both low/high beam? RHDJapan has them much cheaper then other sites.