TurboTapin

If you disconnect the line going to your wastegate, you'll run spring pressure.

Get a friend to get into the trunk with a flashlight, close it and hose her down.

If you need the OEM RB20 knock sensors and knock sensor loom, let me know. I have them both laying around somewhere.

I was in the garage when I first heard of this.... then I looked at my BBS LM's and my Recaro SR3's and chuckled. My car comprises mostly of parts from defunct companies.

PM sent.

Car wont idle without the resistor in place. You can also bypass it. If you need one meanwhile, message me. Cheers.

If it has two wires, it's your fuel pump resistor and not an injector resistor pack. I have one laying around I can sell you cheap.

I've been busy doing a lot of little things on the car. I had purchased one of every ball joint, tie rod, etc. for the front to replace everything when I first purchased the car 6 or so years ago. Whatever I hadn't replaced at the time, I decided to do now even if some of the parts still looked fairly good. That came out to the right side kingpin bearings, both tie rod ends and left side lower control arm ball joint. Did another oil change and sent off a sample as well. I've been working on setting up another VSS. The Haltech GPS has been sucking away my soul. The delay is unbearable. I ended up popping off the rear stub ABS rings off some GTR stubs I had laying around and installing those on my stubs. I had to grind every other tooth off so that it met sensor specs (10mm gap between teeth). I made a small bracket that attached it to a diff bolt. I just have to wire it in this week. It was also the first time I've ever pulled off a shrink fit with only a propane torch. Slipped right on with gravity. It's thin enough to get rather toasty. As for why I haven't wired it in yet, I've been waiting for the IC7 firmware update that allows it to be used as I/O. I'm going to toss my I/O Expander and wire it into the IC7... I wanted to get it all done at the same time. Update came out, unfortunately it's rather buggy. I had to turn off I/O Expansion as I kept losing my Canbus connection on the IC7 with it on. I've never really been impressed with Haltechs firmware support as every version always breaks something, but it seems to have gotten worst over the last few months. Oh yea and still nothing from Speedtek...

There's advantages and disadvantages to both. Sourced DI's are used in automotive for reliability (You can't short signal wires) and ease of use (You have chassis GND available to you anywhere).

On PLC inputs, yes 95% of the time you're sourcing. In automotive, including Nissan's, 95% of DI's are actually sinking. OP is correct. You sink inputs to GND, thus you will have 0VDC with the switch closed.

Like myself, you know you work in industry when your car is littered with Swagelok and Wika lol.

Nice car, you'll enjoy it! I take it from that plate, you're in New Brunswick?

It's an 80$ part on Amayama. Just replace it and be done with it.

What do you mean by "Signal and power from battery to the single post" ? You should only have one 12VDC power cable from battery to stud on the starter and your start signal to the spade for a total of two wires to your starter. Your block also needs to be properly grounded.

I've used the same style crimps on 600VAC, well above 25A. When I'm writing a bill of material for a design, I base it on what it's rated for and nothing more. If I measured every neck of every terminal I used, I'd get fired and presumably sent to an insane asylum. You're over thinking it. Now this only applies if he's using a name brand terminal and not a ching chong meow ali express special. My Radium hanger uses much smaller bulk heads and ring terminals and they're cold to the touch. As for my question concerning the nylon lock nut, crimps and if the ring is properly landing on the bulkhead, what I was getting at is if the bulkhead landing area is small and the ring terminal is oversized for the stud and not making a good contact, it could cause the heat with a nylock. As for the heat, if that's in fact a nylon lock nut and the nylon liquified which is what it looks like in that picture, it took some serious heat! Something was poorly done here, perhaps loose nuts or the crimps themselves. Looking at those crimps, it looks like he didn't use "Insulated terminal" crimpers as there's no indent anywhere to be seen.

Those yellow ring terminals are usually UL rated to 48-50A, and the blue ones to 30A. 105C. I doubt that's your issue. What's oozing out of the top of that nut? Is that a nylon lock nut? Does your bulkhead fitting have enough landing for your ring terminal to make good contact on both sides? Bad contact = Heat. Also check your crimps. Once crimped, confirm it's done properly by trying to pull the wire and ring apart. It should not budge.

It was cheaper at Trust Kikaku then it was at the dealer with my 15% off. No clue how, but I won't argue. Here's the link if ever you need one. Cheers. Nissan A/C Climate Control Unit - BNR32 #663111124 – Trust Kikaku (trust-kikaku.myshopify.com)

Yes, I mentioned it in my first that I did everything that is mentioned online (Redo dry solders, clean connector between PCB's, etc.) and unfortunately it didn't solve it. It crapped out again earlier today, so I replaced it. I'll keep the old one around to repair it at some point.

I also run a CD009. I'm currently on a 4.08 and it's not great. I originally intended to run a 3.3 but had issues, more on that later. I'd stick to anywhere between a 3.3-3.7 as found in the 350z. As for brands of ring and pinions, absolutely stay away from Speedtek. They are absolute garbage. See my build thread for more information on that. I went through two of there 3.3's and both had bad runout. They were paperweights and they have still yet to refund me. I ended up putting in a Nissan 4.08, which was better then the original 4.36 but is far from ideal. I'm going to pop a 3.5 in this winter. I'd stick Nissan. I've also heard of a company "Neat Gearboxes" that makes them. Haven't tried them, but they can't be worst then Speedtek...

Just for a good chuckle. I received the new climate control yesterday and just before starting to remove my old one, I decided to try it again... it worked and has worked since haha. I'm keeping the new one on the shelf as I know it will repeat itself again at some point.

It's just a regular Nissan part you can get from your dealer or online. Part# 28525-05U12. I just went and ordered one as I don't see any other option. Cheers.

Already done, along with confirming all the wiring to the unit checks out. It's more of a wild goose chase in hopes that someone else found a failed solder, bad component, etc. within the unit itself. I have a feeling I'll have to just order a new one.

It was pouring rain Friday night, and my windshield started fogging up. Went to turn on the defogger and to my surprise, my climate control doesn't turn on. The recirc and defogger light strangely stay lit though. I'm presuming it's dead, but has anyone had this before and resolved it? Looking this up online, I found a few mentions of bad solders on the connector between the two PCB's or the connector itself being dirty. I resoldered the connector on both ends and cleaned it but it's still not powering up. No other dry solders that I could see or any components that were toast. I found a few used ones at ridiculous prices (600-800$ CAD). A new one is 790$ shipped to my door. So as mentioned, before I order a new one, has anyone seen this and fixed it?

After a quick revisit, I'm now at 478rwkws @ 27psi on a mustang roller dyno.

That's unfortunately not an option due to the short length I need (~50mm). I've always ran submersible rubber hose without any issues. It is also what is in there from factory. Thanks for the tip though! I was back on the dyno again today to play with VCT rpm and knock thresholds. In the end, the best gains were with keeping VCT on until redline. I gained 15rwkw at the top end. I'm now sitting at 478rwkw @27psi on a mustang dyno. For science and not for bragging rights (I'm full of shit), next time I'm bored, I'll visit one of the many mainline hub dynos around me to do a pull. I'm confident it would be 500+rwkw on a hub dyno. Tuner once again mentioned I'm leaving a lot of power on the table due to my rev limit/hydro lifters. I may or may not entertain going solids at some point in the not so distant future. I also don't really need any more power for the street... it's already more then enough to kill myself. VID_20240627_151737.mp4