TurboTapin

Yes, it's the same 12VDC circuit that feeds the O2 sensor, AAC valve, Boost control solenoid, etc.

You should have the wiring diagram handy and not just the ecu pinout. VCT on an R33 is one wire to 12VDC (Originally from fuse #17 but any 12VDC will do) and other wire to pin 113 on ecu. VCT solenoid is not polarity sensitive.

Thanks for the heads up! I'll take a Gleeson cut over a Chinesium Cut that Speedtek uses all day everyday. Jokes aside, for transparency, Speedktek did finally respond and seems ok with a refund. I'll confirm once it's done.

In Quebec we call them "sac bananes". Banana bag in english lol

My assembler called today and it's confirmed the 2nd Speedtek pinion is in fact toast. He assembled it quickly with the 4.08 final drive to confirm. Worst news is Speedtek isn't answering my emails. I'll give it another few days and then start harassing them by phone. Good news, my diff should be ready this week. He just had to finalize a few things as he put it to the side for another urgent project (He seems to prioritize funny car/top fuel work). I'm also still waiting on the delivery of another 4.08 S13 LSD diff to take apart this winter to presumably toss in another 3.3-3.6 final drive by myself as to learn. I will not be repeating this experience again. Aww Speedtek, how I'm unimpressed...

Just to add to what Murrey said, you still need to measure your cylinder bores before purchasing pistons. Unless it was rebuilt recently, if you have 86mm bores, purchase 86.5mm pistons. If you have 86.5mm bores, purchase 87mm pistons. If you have 87mm bores, have your machinist inspect your block first before purchasing pistons. It's not advisable to bore past 87mm. Cheers,

Welcome to the forum! Feel free to share pictures of your car.

Was the speed taken on the dyno or your cluster? As I also have to deal with seasonal tire changes, I'm presuming you have smaller winter tires like most? If so, it causes a difference between cluster and actual road speed. Cluster was at 180kmh limit but you were reading 163kmh on the dyno.

What happens exactly when you hit 4500rpm? What are your VCT rpm setpoints?

Bon took me a little while to figure out how to get a link from a Facebook post. Just to clarify the comments are on the original post about them partnering up with Speedtek. Not much love it seems. ‼ NEW BRAND RELEASE ‼ We're thrilled... - Platinum Racing Products | Facebook

If ever you want a good laugh, go read the comments on PRP's Facebook post about the partnership with Speedtek.

Yes, that's the one! Thanks. I remember going Speedtek over Neat due to the price but clearly it didn't pay off. Fun fact, PRP started distributing Speedtek parts back in August. Now there's no mention of them anywhere on their site. I don't want to speculate but all I can say is it didn't take long for that partnership to go awry.

That's unfortunate to hear, yet I'm not surprised :/. As for the S14 final drive, I don't want to lose out on another summer. My assembler wants the diff out and so do I. If the 4.08 ends up being a pain, i'll deal with it next winter. There's also another Australian company that makes R32 billet final drives. I can't remember the name though.

Unlike the US, we've had skylines here for decades. Parts are somewhat easily found. I also have a new Nismo 1.5way LSD which wouldn't fit in a 350z diff. It would end up costing me a lot more with no little benefit. If it ends up confirmed that the Speedtek parts are the issue, I might be making a flight over to Australia for the pleasure of tossing the parts through their window. Reading up on them more and more, I see I should have avoided them from the beginning.

My assembler called me yesterday to state he's taking the week off. (He's on the verge of retirement). He also unfortunately told me that the next time he works on my diff will be the last as it's becoming a waist of time for him. With this in mind, I purchased a 4.08 Nissan ring and pinion and another new pinion bearing. So whether it's the pinion or bearing, next time he touches the diff he should have all the replacement parts needed. My Speedtek was a 3.3, so 4.08 isn't the final drive I was really aiming for with my CD009 but I should have a bit more gear then the original 4.3. I also bought a complete used low km S13 VLSD 4.08 diff as a backup... Just in case. Winter tire laws are over here in 3 weeks and I'll be damned if I'm not driving my car by then.

My assembler finally got around to my diff on Friday and wouldn't you know, there's still issues with the new parts sent by Speedtek... It seems the pinion gear has bad runout with the shaft itself. He's going to pull it apart again today and confirm with the shaft on a V block in the small chance it's actually a pinion bearing manufacturing defect but I'm not holding my breath. If this is the case, I'll push for a refund and look elsewhere. As I'm sure this process will take months yet again, I'm going to go pickup another stock r32 vlsd locally and run that this summer so I can at least get the car on a dyno and enjoy it this summer.

New wheels as in season (Winter/Summer)? If so, no. Moving them that often will destroy them. TPMS valve stems are surprisingly fragile. If this is from an old set to a new set of wheels that will remain on the car all year round, then yes you can move them. Depending on the vehicle and year, you may have to reteach them if they change position. This can be done without any special tools on older Nissans (Jumper under dash that you ground out 5x) and does not apply to newer Nissans (They self-learn as you drive).

I also originally had my CD009 paired up with a 4.36, but the constant shifting from 1-4 gear within the first 60km's got old fast. I switched it out for a 3.3. I've actually only put 50km's on that diff as it had issues and is back at my diff assembler but it feels much nicer.

If you run a 6spd CD009 or an R34 box you should. Only good time to do so though.

I run one of your R32 350Z Pedal/Bosch 82mm kits. I'm very happy with the kit and more so now with the revised pedal adapter plate. I'd definitely recommend it.

Check your timing and do a boost leak test.

That's not entirely true.... I've owned three Atoto head units and one of them has worked well 😆

Although they do seem to work, I personally would never trust epoxies on a block. I would constantly be concerned every drive is my last. Although cast iron is a pain in the rear to weld, it's very doable and this small part looks like a perfect candidate. I would also put more faith in brazing it vs a 2 part epoxy as well which will still require a lot of pre heat and post slow cool but would be easier to do.

I hate to disappoint, but my 272 9.30 lift Kelford cams idle butter smooth. I doubt your 260 Poncams will lump, unless idle control gets funny. I also watched the street syndicate video a few days ago that was posted here and he does a decent job of explaining how to set up rotational idle. You should be set.

Does Motive have a cap for R32's? I ask as my motive bleeder has been in a cabinet collecting dust for the last 5-6 years as I couldn't find one back then.