smok74

I have listed this package on www.ebay.com.au (item #250417831687) & it's currently sitting on $1500. Check it out and grab yourself a bargain.

OKAY OKAY Ive had a few fellas being disappointed about the 'NO SHIPPING' part.... IF YOU ORGANISE AND PAY FOR THE COURIER / SHIPPING, I WILL BE MORE THAN HAPPY TO DROP IT OFF AT THE DEPOT - PROVIDING EVERYTHING IS PAID FOR OF COURSE......

This is an inlet plenum that was custom built by Mr Enforcer Engineering for a Nissan RB25DET engine. It is designed for running high boost levels in a big horsepower RB25 engine with it's enlarged high volume chamber capable of 700+ horsepower. I used it to replace my Plazmaman plenum (which I found very responsive BUT lacking top-end oomph...). The manifold is designed to work with all existing factory accessories such as fuel injectors, fuel rail and all hoses so it's a direct drop-in affair. The body is constructed from sheet-aluminium and has a polished finish to it. It currently has a flange to suit a XF throttlebody but can be replaced for whatever unit you desire. The XF throttlebody has been fully stripped, all unnecessary pipes and nipples removed and welsh-plugged, fully rebuilt and modified from a pull-forward to a pull back action to suit this plenum AND fully polished to a mirror finish - all Ford logo and markings/stamps has been removed as well. This work was all carried out professionally and cost about $180 to do. This unit has not been used since this work was carried out, so its pretty much 'new'. This unit can also be used with all RB-engine conversions amongst many others. NOTE: The throttlebody in photo is not the polished version & the fuel rail is not included in sale. ITEM(S) TO BE PICKED UP IN WESTERN SYDNEY OR I CAN DELIVER FOR A SMALL FEE. PRICE : $700ono

Hi, I have a genuine factory adjustable spolier off a R33 V-SPEC for sale. Its got the brake light (with harness + plug) built-in so no defects - a problem with a lot of those fake fibreglass versions that hasnt got the brake light. Perfect for a GTS25T - GET RID OF THAT UGLY FACTORY 'LOOP' SPOILER Its metallic red / maroom in color. This is strictly pickup from Western Sydney or I can drop it off for a small fee - TOO BIG TO POST !! PRICE : $400

SEAT RAILS : Fits one Skyline, fits all Skylines....

Just so that people know, hitting the wheel arches with a grinder is in fact defactable - cutting into the main body. I mean, if the cop was stupid an un-observant, then it's all good, but these cops are becoming smarter and more clued-on within the modifying circles - lots of cops, especially highway patrols, are rev-heads themselves and if they really want to defect a wheel arch that been angle-grinded, then you're f*cked... If I was a cop, Id do exactly THAT to be a pr*ck just because that kid drives a Skyline ..... and dont say it wont happen....grinding the lip off weakens the entire wheel arch etc etc...you can return a pod filter to 'factory' with the stock airbox, but what are you gonna do about the hacked up wheel arch ? find some new guards and replace them I suppose....pretty easy huh ? especially those rear ones.....

Hi fellow Skyliners, I have for sale : * APEXI POWER FC ecu for a R33 RB25DET series 1 & 2 * FC COMMANDER hand controller * FC BOOST CONTROLLER add-on kit This package was purchased brand new and given to me as a gift in Dec 2008 but I did not get a chance to install it until March because the rest of my aftermarket parts did not arrive until late Feb. It was all installed and did a total of 4 hours on the dyno before I removed it and went to a HALTECH setup - I simply wanted run a MAP sensor and get rid of the AFM. Everything is in their own (3) boxes as the way they came new. The POWER FC is becoming harder to get your hands on and the ones that are available are going for $2000+ on Ebay. The add-on BOOST CONTROLLER kit sells for about $500 on it own so that's a total of $2500+ I'm asking for $1700ono. Give me a yell and we can work something out. Cheers.

What did u pay ? I was quoted $200 a corner at a place near Gilford

See what happens next time when someone accidently leans or bumps on your wheel arch a little hard, especially the front guards. The factory lips are folded back at 90 degrees like that for a reason, to maintain the integrety, strength and the general shape of the wheelarch. Grind it off and you've weakened it.

Well isnt it fortunate I work at Valspar (the makers of HOUSE OF KOLOR in the USA) here in Australia and we also own 'FMS' - Fibreglass Materials Services - that supply 70% of the resins/epoxys/gelcoat market here in Oz...... lol What do you need ?

Well, how about having the surge tank in the boot, then the Bosch 044 in the engine bay ? That way, the pump wouldnt have to work extra hard to pressurise the entire length from the boot to the engine bay but rather just a short distance from the pump to the rail both of which are located close together. There wouldnt be any air in the line as the surge tank would make sure of that and everything would still work the same.

You guys are thinking of the 'dry' technique which is a lot more expensive also the carbon material is also prepared and handled slightly differently. My friend's brother in fact works for Benneton F1 team in the UK and he works in the Carbon fibre section that develops all the aerodynamics components for their cars, some of the stuff he gets into you do indeed need an aeronautical engineering degree to understand..... The technique Im referring to is the 'wet' technique which is more for the cosmetic purposes..... a much cheaper alternative. Even the carbon fibre bonnets that a lot of us buy are in fact done using the wet technique ..... how do you tell ? Fibreglass shell with just one layer of carbon fabric on top for appearance..... The real stuff used in the 'dry' carbon is many layers of carbon fibre....NO FIBREGLASS !! For the simple interior panels, the 'wet carbon' technique is sufficient. Just coat the dash panel using black gelcoat or clear epoxy as a 'glue' and lay the fabric on using a small paint roller to press the entire sheet down evenly, wait until it's cured, then carry on using the technique I mentioned above using 2-pac clear or epoxy resin. Youre not doing it for strength but rather for appearance !

We have all seen an external surge tank / pump setup installed in the boot of a car....we've also all heard of it being canaried..... My question is, why can't we install the surge tank in the engine bay if we can find the room ? like behind the drivers side headlight, Ive seen people mount their breather tank there, so why not a surge tank ? Heat could be a concern, but that can be controlled with insulation. I wanna heard your feedbacks on this idea.... Like the technical pros n cons. Cheers guys.

The stuff is usually not available to the general public, but I can get as much of the carbon fabric as you need from my work. I work at a company that cooks resins which also owns a sub-company that distributes fibreglass materials, carbon fibre and even Kelvar (which Ive made knife-proof vests from), who supplies all the major companies involving with body kits, swimming pools and boats etc. I assume you are intending to use the 'wet' method which is very similar to working with traditional fibreglass moulding etc. looking at the website you referred to, I have myself done this type of cosmetic upgrades and personally... THIS GUY HAS ONLY HALF BAKED IT !!!! What you are meant to do after you 'glued' the fabric to the interior panels is to coat it with clear epoxy resin OR 2-pak clear with a light coat, let it cure, rub it back a bit with fine wet/dry paper like 1200-1800 grade to get rid of any ripples and impefections, then recoat it with a thinner flowcoat !! The trick is not to have any pockets of air trapped in between the coats.....That way, the end result will be like carbon bonnets etc etc.... nice n glossy !! I can also get the epoxy as well. If youre gonna do this, might as well do it properly and make sure she doesnt bubble up and peel off after a few months. Personally, Im about to do the roof of my R33 and / or even the doors, boot, the GTR wing, side skirts.... it's endless... Im in the Blacktown area which is about 30 mins from where you are Give me a yell if you are keen and we can work something out.....be warned, the fabric is sold by the linear meter and is NOT CHEAP. FOr about $90 - $100, you'll get about 2metres wide by 1metre. [email protected]

Errr that doesnt make sense, the factory BOV is supposed to be plumbed back into the inlet by venting into a pipe with the BOV facing the passenger side of the car.... Unless your BOV isnt plumbed back....then the engine would be farting and puffing in between gears as the ECU over fuels it.

Out west in between Parramatta & Blacktown... What are you asking for it ?

Hi, Im about to stick a brand new GT3582R into my R33 (RB25DET) and because of the fact that 9 out of 10 people I know that's high mounted their aftermarket turbo has been defected (mod plated or not) for emissions, I'd rather keep it out of sight. That's why I've decided to low mount it but controlling it with an external wastegate. Im after a stock-as-a-rock factory exhaust manifold for a RB25DET to modify so I can run it in an external gate configuration. Let me know if you have one....I know they pop up on Ebay all the time, but Im just too lazy to wait for one. Im not going to pay Unique Autosports $700 for one of their modified ones because I can modify my own for peanuts in a couple of hours. Thanks guys

I see no Air con condenser in the pics.... I see a a/c fan and a a/c pump.

Its obvious this is a aftermarket turbo that you have on this car... The factory baby turbo is both WATER & OIL cooled as it also requires water as a cooling source being a ball bearing (but ceramic turbine wheeled) AND as from the photos you have supplied, the turbo that is now on there is only oil cooled (most probably a thrust bearing type that only requires oil). I can only assume that its the water/coolant line being blocked off as its not being used. The factory turbo has 4 lines attached to it, OIL IN, OIL OUT, WATER IN, WATER OUT. The current turbo has two lines : OIL IN & OIL OUT. DO THIS : let the car cool down, un-do the block-off nut at the end of that hose and see what comes out of it, if its water or coolant, then its sweet (even tho it should really be connected back up to the other water hose for a continuous flow) BUT if its oil, then it's not right !!

LOL oh, much more than that.... but most importantly, it means you're an idiot.

VG AUTOPAINT in Girraween (NSW) sells the identical tool for $160.

GOD SOME PEOPLE DONT DESERVE TO OWN SKYLINES !!! YOU CRUEL BASTARDS !!! GRINDERS ? HEAT GUNS ? F*CK ME !!! FOR F*CKS SAKE, HAVENT YOU PEOPLE EVER HEARD OF 'DO IT PROPERLY OR DONT DO IT AT ALL ??????' Dude, Ive had some workshops quote up to $200+ for each corner...... Your best bet is, get yourself a 'guard roller', Its a device, you remove your wheel, bolt it to the hub, and it contains an arm and a roller, starting at the middle, you work your way back and forth and tightening it up as you go, slowly and surely pumping it out, professionals use the same tool. Ive seen it for sale at VG AUTOPAINT at Girraween (NSW) for about $150 !!! you could even start your own business and get your money back after one job LOL http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=26928 Go to this site, its got all the pics of what Im talking about. Hope this helps.

We all know this is all a dream for the clown....... but you're a dildo for advertising the fact that you own such a car because you'll be the same dildo that's gonna cry like a baby when it gets knocked off or when you get car-jacked at the front of your house with a gun barrel stuck to your head. ........ and dont think it doesnt happen. I remember reading in the newspapers about a certain workshop that had all 5 or 6 of its show cars knocked off after an AutoSalon (2006 or 2007) show when the thieves followed the transporter back to the workshop, broke in thru the roof and cleaned them out that night. Some people just ask for it..... AND I agree with R32line..... YOURE A HOMO !! LOL

What to do .... what to do...... Get a few of meters of brand new vac line...AND NOT SOME CHEAP SHIT EITHER, The best Ive found is 3mm ID stuff made by SARD, as it's only 3mm ID, it will be very tight fitting on all the nipples (GOTTA BECAREFUL ESPECIALLY IF YOU USE TURBOSMART BOV OR WASTEGATES as they tend to have really small/thin nipples), once you have replaced them all, tie them off at each nipple with a cable tie or two. As with all the pretty colourful 'silicone' stuff that's around, let me tell you guys, the blue or red stuff that the hoses are made off is NOT silicon ! That's in fact synthatic rubber, when people refer to silicon hoses, theyre talking about the silicon fibres that's used to reinforce the make up of the hose (kinda like fibre glass and polyester resin OR carbon fibre and epoxy resin etc)...... When you get down to the vacumn line sizes, there is in fact NO SILICON fibres used in the make up, so you might as well be buying normal rubber vac lines !! With the intercooler joiners, what I found is, slip the joiners on and when you fit & tighten down the clamps, have them sit on a slight angle, kinda like wedged across. I find it to have a better seal and less room for it to move, slipping and/or popping off under hight boost. .... all common sense really...... Good luck.