2LV8ETR

Luke, There are 3 ways to go about this. 1: Buy a second-hand engine, drop it in, and swap all of your upgrades on to it. 2: Replace the crank. 3: Buy another engine that's tired. Pull it down, replace everything with the items we discussed over whatever period of time. Once complete, you will have a very capable engine. The downside to option 1 is that you have no idea as to what you're getting. The downside to option 2 is that you will have to spend money replacing all of the bearings and of course, the cost of the crank itself. Add to that the labour/machining and costs of gaskets and it would not really be a viable way to go. There's no downside to option 3 as you will eventually have a fully rebuilt and capable engine. The price of all the goodies and labour can be spent over a period of time at your leisure so it won't be a great burden on your finances. You can keep pussy-footing your car in it's present state and hope for the best. Another way to go with option 3 is to just rebuild it using stock parts. This way you know that the engine going in will not give up any time soon. If you can get hold of a set of 26 rods and pistons, the cost would be less than forged items, but you will be limited with the power cap. For the extra grand or so it would cost to forge it, and increase the power cap is entirely up to you. Would 400hp be enough? That's your real question. There's nothing stopping you from driving what you have now, but with the harmonic in the state it's in at the moment it will only be a matter of time before the engine lets go.

I'm at the stage where I'll be dropping in the injectors on the manifold over the weekend, so the resistor pack will be needed fairly soon. PM me if you need my number because I'd like to get hold of one ASAP and I'm more than happy to prepay if needed.

Nistune, and the resistor pack for the GT-R injectors.

Sorry for not getting back to this topic, for some reason I'm not being notified on the forums when a topic I have subscribed to is replied. So I was under the impression that there were no responses. Anyway, yes, the issue was with myself mistakingly assuming that the girdles would fit between blocks, I just chose the cleaner of the two to start with. I have SNAFU'd somewhere along the way in my thinking. It's all good now and the engine should be in the car soon as I am presently port matching the RB20DET intake to the 25DE manifold. There's a little bit of difference in size between the two and I just wanted to facilitate an even flow. Thanks for the replie guys, and Bubba, I'll be hitting you up for some gear soon. I still have your number.

Date: Sunday the 15th of April Meet Point: Good old Ranger Camping Kelmscott Meet time: 09:00 - 9:30 Depart We'll be playing around the Dwellingup area for this one. Real 4x4's only please. We don't want another day wasted due to a poorly setup vehicle like last time. Original Thread

As we're a distributor, we have to take what's given to us. Special requests bump up the costs somewhat and it's not something that our customers wish to bear. What this means unfortunately is that you, the fabricator, have to use your magic touch to make things right. The only people who get what they want is Woodside, but believe me, they pay for it. Just one of the fittings (header tank with 4 test rings) that passed through my projects warehouse last week cost them over $180k, including air freight and testing.

There's a good chance that we supplied the pipe and fittings for this. I'm a bit surprised at the unprotected RF's on the weld necks, you guys must be good at keeping things separated (unlike some peanuts out there). It's good to see you're proud of your work, well done.

This is the reason I do all my own work. It's hard to find someone you can trust.

I'm not easy on them, that's why I've done a few. A couple of other guys I know have had to convert to 25DET boxes because of the same reason. The only reason I went back to the 20 box this last time was because I was breaking the converted speedo sender units. While I rebuild the 25DET box, I'll be buying and using the Navara sender unit instead of a modded 20/25. It will be out a few km/h, but I can live with that Are you still using the Gts-4 box? If so, they are basically equivalent internally to a 25DET box, they're not skinny little mongrels like a 20DET box.

Yeah, the slave is different (bolt config), I forgot about that one. As I went from auto to manual I had to use the S13 auto crossmember backwards, but I used the same between the 20 and 25 box.

I was running 350hp though mine and went through 4 20DET boxes, keep in mind that there were track days involved. The 20 box will hold up as long as you baby it, but then, where's the fun in that? Saying that, I have also lunched a 25DET box. Start sourcing a 25DET box, spigot bearing (larger) and tailshaft yoke.

Where are you from? This would narrow the field down somewhat.

I have started my first of two RB30 conversions this afternoon and came across an interesting scenario. I am building two side by side, one 400hp for the street, and the other, an 800hp for competition. Both engines have been pulled down and one block and crank sent off for the usual machining. I didn't take any notice of what came out of either engine and just put everything up on shelves as I broke it down. Fortunately, one set of stock internals is easily discernable from the other as one engine was full of sludge and burned oil which discoloured the components, and here's why. When I went to fit the main girdle, the crank locked to the point where it wouldn't spin. I thought that there was an issue somewhere with the bearings being put in incorrect packaging, but measurements dictated otherwise. Just for the hell of it, I cleaned up the girdle that came out of the block I sent off first (the sludgy one), fitted it and torqued it down, and lo and behold, everything spun beautifully. To put it simply, the main girdle off one engine was slightly shorter that the one on the other engine. The girdle went on the other engine without issue, but they had to be fitted to the block of origin. This is my first 30 build (I've done 26's and 20's) and it's a first for me. I have had a look around to see if there have been other instances of this but I came up short of an answer as most builds are done singly, not side by side. Maybe there's a workshop or builder out there who can provide an answer to this wierd little teaser?

I don't see why we should be breaking the law when informing oncoming drivers of a speed trap. The radio is forever announcing where the locations of present multanovas and handhelds are. What's the difference? Aside from that, yes, I ALWAYS flash oncoming drivers a warning when applicable.

I've had a couple of bad experiences with them, I won't go into detail again, but it has put me off them for life. I don't care if there's only a few bad apples out there, even if the majority of them are doing the right thing. If they and John Q Citizen can put all modified vehicle owners in the Hoon basket, then I have no issue putting them in the same basket as what some of them have been found guilty of over the years. Spousal abuse, assault, sexual harassment, breaking and entering, possession of child pornography, and only a couple of weeks ago, misconduct for falsifying log books to get out of speeding violations are just a few of the things that have happened within the last year or two. Just do a search on police corruption and you'll see what I mean. I even remember years a go the 3 cops in Bunbury getting done for screaming through a multanova in a BMW wearing KKK hoods, and the cops who wiped themselves out near Kings Park on a high speed joyride. They aren't above the law, but they do get away with a lot because unless you have either video evidence or mutliple witnesses, your chances of proving anything they did are futile. Good luck keeping this thread going too by the way, my complaints and threads about things like this have been deleted before.

Hey dude. I have been running my RB20DET at 380hp (280kW) @ 28 psi on stock internals. So far all has been well while at that figure for 5 years now, though the engine is starting to show some signs of getting tired, but that's to be expected if running that sort of power for so long. I'm actually surprised it's lasted this long with the amount of abuse at regular track days I give it. At the moment I have tuned it down to 300hp (220kW) @ 18 psi while I'm building my 26/30 just to make sure I can get a few more months out of it. Hope this helps.

Sorry to say guys that this cruise will be postponed due to the weather that will be with us on the day. All of the stops and meet points are out in the open so it will be impossible to enjoy the outdoors. I will reannounce the new date and time soon.

Link to the thread: http://www.westcoastcruisers.com.au/Forums/topic/1261-wcc-poker-run-2/page__view__findpost__p__14845 Date: Sunday the 30th of January. Meet Point: Powis St Car Park, Lake Monger Reserve. Time: 09:30 for a 10:00 departure. Map: Poker In The Rear. As usual, there's a $10.00 entry fee per person (not per vehicle), and the more the merrier so bring yer mum. The rules will be exactly the same as the last poker run and I'll cut and paste them below: What is it? The Poker run is a cruise with 5 stops, including the meet point and end point. At each stop, players will select a card from the deck. The card will be noted and the player will initial their selection on an entry sheet. The card will then be returned to the play deck. The deck will be shuffled and the next player will draw a card, with the process repeating until all players have selected their card at that stop. At the next stop, all players will select from the deck again. If a card is drawn that a player has previously selected, that card will be set aside and another selected until one is drawn that the player has not yet added to his/her hand. Once the selection is complete, the card that was set aside will be returned to the deck, the deck shuffled and the next player will draw. The process repeats until the end point. At the end point, the player with the best hand will be deemed the winner and will win the pot. Split pots do occur occasionally where the winnings are divided among the players with the best equal hand. What is the cost? The cost of entry will be $10.00, payable on the day. Any amount of people can play so passengers are encouraged to participate in order to increase the pot value. 10 players = $100.00, 50 players = $500.00, 100 players = $1000.00. Not a bad day out at all. We will not restrict the organisers from participating as the cards are drawn in the presence of others and will be handled by a third party when the organisers draw for the sake of fairness. What are the winning hands? The hands in order of importance are as follows: 1: Royal Flush - A hand that contains five cards in sequence, all of the same suit to the ace. Eg: 10/J/Q/K/A all spades. 2: Straight Flush - A hand that contains five cards in sequence, all of the same suit. Eg: 2/3/4/5/6 all clubs. 3: Four Of A Kind - A hand that contains four cards of one rank, and an unmatched card of another rank. Eg: 2/2/2/2/9. 4: Full House - A hand that contains three matching cards of one rank, and two matching cards of another rank. Eg: 9/9/9/3/3. 5: Flush - A hand where all five cards are of the same suit. Eg: 2/4/8/10/K all hearts. 6: Straight - A hand that contains five cards of sequential rank. Eg: 7/8/9/10/J. 7: Three Of A Kind - A hand that contains three cards of the same rank, plus two unmatched cards. Eg: 7/7/7/Q/A. 8: Two Pair - A hand that contains two cards of the same rank, plus two cards of another rank (that match each other but not the first pair), plus one unmatched card. Eg: 5/5/K/K/7. 9: One Pair - A hand that contains two cards of the same rank, plus three other unmatched cards. Eg: 9/9/3/6/J. 10: High Card - A hand in which no two cards have the same rank, the five cards are not in sequence, and the five cards are not all the same suit. Eg: A/3/7/J/Q. There are 311,875,200 ways of being dealt five cards from a 52 card deck, so the chances of two people ending up with the same hand are highly improbable. There will be a few poker players among the participants so deciding the best hand will be verified.

Try Nissan - 65829-AA000.

I'm assuming this is the 2L-TE engine from the LN130? I have done a lot of research on the subject as I own one and have recently fully rebuilt the engine to use until I am ready to go the route I have chosen. In any event, horsepower isn't what the diesel is all about, it's torque. I understand that by increasing hp, you'll increase torque, but the engine itself isn't designed to be pushed too hard as they already run a 21:1 compression ratio. If you consider that the 2L-T has only 1 hp less (96hp) than the 2L-TE, the torque increase is from 188Nm to 241Nm with the 2L-TE, and the only difference is the addition of EFI rather than mechanical injection. So by increasing the boost, you won't achieve a great deal of increase in hp. As it is, the CT-20 that's used on them already is considered too big for the 2.4L diesel, so the twins from a GT-R will be excessive. Apparently the T28 from the S-14/15 is a better option for this engine. I have even read where people have downgraded from the CT-20 to the smaller CT-12 with better results as the boost comes on quicker. I did contemplate using a CT-26 which I was given from a 7M-GTE, but research told me that they are way too laggy and would be a step backwards. The way I am going is to mate the 5L-E engine to the 2L-TE head. This way I have the 3 litre bottom end and the 2L-TE head will bolt directly onto the block. I can also retain the current ECU and wiring. This is somewhat similar to an R32 owner dropping the RB30 block onto an RB25DE head from an NA R32/A31 (another of my projects, but slightly more involved). I will be modifying the CT-26 turbo to suit the CT-20 manifold and testing the results, but I will more than likely be retaining the CT-20. You must use the the 5L-E and not the 5L if you have the auto gearbox because you need the crank angle sensor on the side of the block. The best way to go is to drop the 1UZ-FE from a Celsior into the Surf. It's a very involved process but everyone who does it has a grin akin to a Cheshire cat. This doesn't help you with the issue that you're having at the moment, but I think that it may be the wrong road to take with the engine that you're dealing with. I will be watching the thread with interest though, because I have not come across this approach yet and I'm interested in the results if you can get it happening. Good luck.

Until they're told to leave. I have already warned one dropkick for being a dick. He left and the rest of that night went well.

Don't do it dude.

It's still on man. Looking forward to it.

All sweet mate. I too was pissed at how they wrecked the night, and my plates are easily recognised so it's easy to confuse me with these tools. Cheers.

I just got wind of this post and I'll explain what happened. I saw the link to this cruise on Antilag and posted it up on our site to let our members know that it was happening, and if they were interested to hook up and enjoy it. We are after all a cruise club and this is what we do. Antilag link - ANTILAG, WCC link - WCC. The cruise was organised by a member on SAU and was meant for pre 2000 sedans as you know. The people at the meet at City West were the people who were part of the cruise and I was one of them. The first stop at Sorrento was nice an calm and we all enjoyed a Fruit Box supplied by Rowan who organised the cruise. The next meet however was when it all turned to shit. At Kardinya uncover car park, one of these dickhead clubs rocked up, and as stated above were racing through the car park, valve bouncing, playing loud music, and generally just being dicks. One of our members looked at me and I said I was going to bail, which I did and waited up the road on the way to the next meet point which was Fast Eddies in Morley. I wanted nothing to do with a club like this because it dickheads like this that give all HPV owners a bad name. When I arrived at Fast Eddies (15 minutes late after getting a bit lost, I noticed that the same group was in the undercover area where we were meant to be. I parked my car a little way from them until I saw where the rest of our cruisers were. I then moved to where they were and went in for a nosh at FE's. A little while later this club moved on after dropping burnouts and the usual crap these idiots do, and there was a police car shadowing them. Unfortunately, one of our old members was a part of this crap, but this person no longer comes on our cruises and prefers this type of anti-social behaviour. If you have ever been on our cruises you will notice that we always announce that anyone who misbehaves is told to leave, as we don't condone this behaviour and I personally despise any who take part in it. I am Facebook friends with this old member still and I've seen that some of these people were busted that night by the police, and I'm happy about that. To answer your question though mate, I was there, but the cruise that I was on was not part of that lunacy that night. I stayed as far away as I could, and I DO NOT condone that sort of behaviour. If you come out, you'll see that we are just a bunch of people with a common interest in cars and on day cruises, our children are out with us. I hope this explains what happened that night and I'm sure this can be verified by the organiser and any others from SAU who were there that night.