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Try any product containing hydroflouric acid. It's nasty shit if you get it on you, but it works very well.

I wouldn't put that on my lawnmower man. There's a heap of threads covering cheap shit eBay turbos man. My opinion is no, it's not worth skimping money at the risk of taking your entire engine out.

Have you given ceramic coating a thought? Expensive, but works really well.

When I had mine permitted and passed, I was told it only had to be fixed. All I have is a bracket holding the pod to the body.

I haven't removed the card myself, but depending on how soon you wanted it done, I would keep an eye out (or ask in the WTB section) for a cheap or damaged trim to have a go at removing the insert. This way if you damage it trying to remove it, it won't cost you your trim.

Nismo make an upgraded slave cylinder for about $200.00. The size is 13/16 and will make a heavier clutch lighter to engage.

A slave kit is a piece of cake to install. The only problem is getting one before Monday if you really needed it. Try to contact a couple of 7 day parts stores, you never know, you may get lucky.

Вы должны стараться делать поиск, можно найти много информации.

For what? A Boeing 747, a Mack truck, or even the space shuttle? Fill in your personal info man, it'll help limit stupid replys.

Use a steering wheel puller. It's an H shaped frame with 2 claws and a bolt which sits in the column. Easy as.

I tried it and it isn't an exact fit. You can use it but if you're after aesthetics, then you'll want an R31 or Pintara type. The firewall holes line up, but the fixing point on top is way off. The other thing is that the pedal sits higher by about 20mm. I'll be using it because it's going into another race car and I'll modify everything to suit, but I personally wouldn't put one in a street car.

The wastegate actuator can also be exchanged for one with a different pressure rating.

Even the best can lose a car in a race. but in saying that, you need to learn to crawl before you can run, this is where your experience is learned. To just jump into a car like this without knowing what to do is like giving a loaded gun to a child to play with, sooner or later you're going to die. Anyone could see that he should have backed off and got the car under control before mashing the pedal again. Experience would have taught this, especially on this shitty track.

The VeilSide CI kit is either a love or hate statement. I have one on mine (sedan) and I get a lot of comments about how nice it looks. In the end man, you have to live with it and if people don't like it, too bad, so sad. As long as it floats your boat then go with it.

I'll be checking that out on the weekend. If anyone has an answer, say so, otherwise I'll have an answer for you then man.

My lips are sealed.............. I thought that was you! Was fun, will definitely be on the next one. Thanks again Olivia and Sami!

I assume you have purchased one for a Gts-t, not a GT-R. If this is the case, then you can do it. It's a simple procedure: 1: Remove lower panel (screws & 1 wiring connector). 2: Lower steering column (levers). 3: Remove binnacle (screws & wiring connectors). 4: Remove dash cluster (screws & wiring connectors). 5: Repeat in reverse order. Really, it's a piece of cake.

Wow man. Did anyone notice the massive over-corrections made? Look through the windscreen on the second video. Learn to drive first dude, you're going to kill yourself or somebody else the way you're going. Seriously.

Another post? Should have left the question in the last one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=281891

If Signal Auto can run their R33 with a stock transmission in 9.47@150, then so can you. http://www.superstreetonline.com/featuredv..._car/index.html

Don't bother. It's more hassle than it's worth. The best thing for you to do is to decide what you want and aim for it, even if you need to wait until you're off your P's. Drive around in a bunky until you're ready.

Payback21 went through this recently and it was the ignitor pack.

You're right, there are fewer of these every year, but in saying that, how much are you willing to pay to have something that you really want? Are you prepared to pay for the troubles and associated costs that a nostalgic vehicle like this brings? Buy this and you'll probably wonder why you did when the repair bills start to come in. But if you really want it, buy it. The answer to the question lies with you alone. Many people will call you mad, and the rest will say that it's a cool car because of the rarity. Who knows, in a the years to come they may be up there with the KPGC10. Personally I wouldn't do it, but as I said, it depends on how much YOU want it. Good luck with it though man.

Take everything needed for the alarm from the ignition wiring harness under the steering column. Everything you'll need is there and it's only a short distance to the central locking unit behind the drivers kick panel if you are installing CL.

Try a different lighter in the socket and see what happens. The lighter itself may be cactus and is creating a dead short instead of heating the element.