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And if you do get labelled, return to stock, return to the pits, do what you can to pass, bolt your mods back on. Screw them. If they want to be stupid about it, there's always a solution. A cow fart cause more greenhouse gases than the time it takes for a vehicle's cat to warm up. Don't they realise that there are normal people out there with average sized wallets? Somehow, I think this venture may fail if 2 in 3 cars failed.

When you drive it that is.............. Yet to see her Bubba!

Did a search for you and came up with these. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2631570 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4124703

Payback21 ran 18psi on his stock 20 for a couple of months with no issues. We were waiting for it to bang, but it didn't. Needless to say, we were expecting it to.

To a certain degree, yes. But there are those out there who go overboard. I think what they are mainly concerned with is maintaining the geometry of the vehicle.

This will be the only downfall. With hoon legislation the way it is, modified vehicle owners are a target for police. As long as you stay under the radar and leave your anger at the tracks, you should be okay but on occasion you'll still get hassled by the odd cop with a defect notice. MOT laws will no doubt be different to ours over here so I don't know how you'll go if you were intending on shipping your GT-R over here. In any event, a little research on your behalf once you're over here on your visit will tell you what you may need to know. Good luck with the venture.

It won't affect your tune man.

The 32 didn't come out with the 25DET. The only thing in the 32 that was close was the GTS-25 Type-X, which had the RB25DE - non-turbo.

I can't see an ignitor, so I would say S2.

Defective fan clutches are a common and often overlooked cause of overheating. The sheer characteristics of the clutch fluid gradually deteriorates over time, with an average loss in drive efficiency of about 200 rpm per year. Eventually slippage reaches the point where effective cooling is no longer possible and overheating results. On average, the life of a fan clutch is about the same as a water pump. If one needs to be replaced, the other usually does too. Sometimes a lower radiator hose will collapse under vacuum at high speed and restrict the flow of coolant from the radiator into the engine. This can happen if the reinforcing spring inside the hose is missing or damaged. Also, if the coolant is overflowing from the overflow tank, replace the radiator cap.

It's on the starter motor side on top of the bell housing behing the inlet manifold - Or it should be. Oil shouldn't be coming out of here. If it is, it's usually do to an overfill. If you remove the shifter gaiter from the center console, you'll see a large square concertina rubber dust boot with a square metal surround. This is the insulator. It's actually in 3 parts, 2 rubber, and 1 steel.

The only correct way to do it is to weld in a metal patch and respray. Fibreglass and/or body filler will crack over time because metal and fibreglass have different flexing/contraction rates, not to mention also the vibration factor. You can give it a go and have some success over a period of time but eventually it'll happen. When mounting fibreglass to metal (such as bodykits) a flexible product such as Sikaflex is used for two reasons, easier bonding and flexability. Good luck with whichever way you go though.

Yes. The only thing you have to do is use a different speedometer sensor as the 20 uses a cable and the 25 uses an electronic pulse sensor.

It'll handle 1000hp if you baby it. It comes down to how you put the power into it man. Drive it normally and it'll be okay, sidestep it at 7,000 rpm on a dragstrip and say goodnight to it. I've seen RB20 boxes blow with stock engines in the hands of an idiot. They aren't the strongest out there. If you want to abuse your vehicle, drop an RB25DET box in.

Check the level though the side filler bung with your finger in the morning man.

R32 & R33 GTR (RB26DETT), 08/1993 - 01/1995 (Series 1) R33 GTST (RB25DET) use the same. 01/1995 - 05/1998 (Series 2) R33 RB25DET, R34 GTR RB26DETT, 10/1996+ Stagea RB25DET (Non NEO) use the same. The Series 2 has inbuilt ignitors. R34 GTT (RB25DET NEO only), Stagea (RB25DET NEO only) use the same.

^^^^^^ ?????????? WTF ??????????

Honesty is the best policy

You may have overfilled it. How much did you put in? Also, did you top it up in the side plug or through the shifter housing?

The Skyline oil pressure sender unit is infamous for failing and showing false readings. If in doubt, replace it or fit an aftermarket gauge. Could be a few things, wheel bearing, alignment, balance, tailshaft bearing, etc. Could be the AFM, or IAC valve. Clean them carb cleaner. Don't put WD40 anywhere near the AFM!!! Check your tail light globes, they could be single pole jammed in, I've seen it before. Also check for a short or cross wiring. You can safely up the boost to 12-14 psi with the FMIC, pod and exhaust. The stock ECU will cut out at 14psi so keep it to between 12-13psi.

If you're talking about out of the exhaust, it's normal. It's just condensation.

Follow the steps I provided above.

You've got a short somewhere dude. A process of elimination will help to track down the culprit. 1: Does the fuse blow as soon as you put it in, or when you press the horn button? 2: Remove the wires from the horns and press the horn button. Did the fuse blow? 3: If no, replace the wires to one of the horns and try again. If the fuse blew, it's that horn that is toast. If not, remove the wires from the good horn and try them on the other one. What happened? 4: Replace the relay in the engine compartment electrical box. Is the problem solvered?

+1 Don't they have a pit??????

The hiss noise you are hearing on gear change is the bypass valve recirculating the air from the intake manifold to the front of the turbo. Have a look at the valve and you'll see a black steel tube running to the inducer. You are hearing the hiss coming through the pod filter. If you had the stock airbox in place it would sound like a mild hiss/squeak. There's nothing to worry about man, you can put the stock bypass valve back in place without any problem.