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That's like asking what sort of cereal we eat. Everyone will have a different opinion for different reasons, but for my personal choice, it would be the GT-R.

Yes, but that's like saying that an Lingenfelter is a Chevrolet, AMG is a Mercedes and an Alpina is a BMW. Technically, yes they are. The only difference is that the tuning arms have had their hands in improving on the base platform. Different suspension, driveline, engines, etc. Did you also know that Cosworth play with aircraft, yachts, and defence to name a few, and also vehicles such as Aston Martin, Subaru, and Mitsubishi? Did I say that? I've gone over may statement a few times now and I don't see that anywhere. Soooooo..... Kindly leave your inane comment at the door.

Because Holden and Ford bashed their teddys, chucked their bikes in the bushes, and spat their dummies because they couldn't beat the Skyline and the Sierra Cosworths. They then decided to create the "Supercar" series which had to be made up of Australian V8 vehicles, which left Group A with no major influence as all of the bogans went to the V8 dark side. I remember watching the crowds reaction after Sir Jim won Bathurst after an inclement weather windback, and all of the bogans booed him. Better still was his speech where he called them all a pack of arseholes. Holden and Ford were beaten by Winfield (Skyline - Richards & Skaife), Johnson Racing (Sierra - Johnson & Bowe), Winfield (Skyline - Olofsson & Crompton), and B&H (BMW - Longhurst & Cicotto). Holden came 5th in the VP Commonwhore followed by another Skyline team (Advantage). Here's the link to the comment: YouTube - 41 Seconds.

Your best bet would probably be to swap over to an OEM suspension if you know someone with a 33T and would be okay with you borrowing theirs for a day. Failing that, either buy a second hand OEM or some aftermarket coilovers that would pass ADR requirements. Also, a Coke can is 130mm, not 100mm which is the ADR minimum for a fixed object (WA).

I had this issue many years ago and it turned out to be the radiator cap. It was the last thing I thought of and that's all it was.

What is the clearance between the ground and the resonator? Also, do you have the stock suspension or and aftermarket adjustable?

If it's only hissing during gear change then it's right. The ultimate question still hasn't been answered - Do you run a pod filter???????

32's are under the bonnet. I only put mine in the boot to make a little room for other stuff.

A stock GT-R will cane that figure. With a little playing around - Enough said.........

Makes two of us. Maybe an explanation could be given by the mod?

Which thread was closed man?

Was it a constant hiss under boost, or only during gear change? The stock bypass valve recirculates from the intake manifold to the inducer in the front of the turbo.

I've had this issue with my 32 when I transferred the battery to the boot. It has to be as I stated above to comply with ADR's. It doesn't matter if you use a dry cell or not as one day you may have to replace it with a standard lead acid battery.

It has to be in a fixed and vented battery box. Sorry Nick!

They are notorious for failing and providing low readings.

Two things. First, the can gasket was put there to block the bypass valve intentionally. A lot of the younger generation do this for what they refer to as a dose (the flutter) noise. This is potentially harmful and not a good thing to do. Secondly, by removing the can and you are using a pod filter and you hear a whoosh noise when you change gears, that's just the bypass valve doing it's job to recirculate the pressurised intake charge to the front of the turbo. This is normal if running a pod. If you use a stock filter box, the noise will be less predominate.

If that's this, then you part number is 32264-01G00.

These are the real deal, not copies: VeilSide - SKYLINE GT-R 32 E3 REAR WING VERSION 2 VeilSide - SKYLINE GT-R 32 E3 FRONT BUMPER VeilSide - SKYLINE GT-R 32 E3 SIDE SKIRTS VeilSide - SKYLINE GT-R 32 E3 FRP REAR BUMPER SPOILER VeilSide - SKYLINE GT-R 32 E3 FENDER KITS VeilSide - R32 GT-S E-III FRONT BUMPER

By required parameters I mean the output voltage and current capacity of the alternator. The actual output voltage produced by the charging system will vary depending on temperature and load, but will typically be about 1.5 to 2 volts higher than battery voltage. At idle, most charging systems will produce 13.8 to 15.3 volts with no lights or accessories on. This can be measured by connecting the positive (+) and negative (-) test leads of a voltmeter to the battery posts while the engine is running. Current (amperage) on the other hand, is how much current the charging system produces at a specified voltage. Your alternator should produce up to 120 to 155 amps. Current output increases with engine rpm, from around 20 to 30 amps at idle up to the unit's maximum output at 2,500 RPM or higher. Charging output can be measured with an inductive amp probe clamped around the BAT (B+) wire that connects to the alternator. It can also be measured on an alternator bench tester by an auto electrician. One of the most common causes of charging problems is the failure of one or more diodes in the alternator. Alternators have six diodes (three negative and three positive) that convert the alternating current (AC) to direct current (DC). They are called a diode trio because each negative diode is paired with a positive diode. When the engine is running, charging current from the alternator flows through the diode trio via the BAT (B+) connection on the back of the alternator. A little current also flows through the charging light indicator circuit. When the alternator is charging, the diode trio supplies voltage to the ground side of the indicator light. This offsets the battery voltage applied to the positive side of the light, causing the light to go out once the engine starts. If the alternator stops charging, current flows though the light circuit from the positive side causing the charging system warning light to come on. If one of the diodes fails, it may cause the charging system indicator light to glow dimly. If two or more diodes fail, the light will get brighter. At the same time, the feedback current from the diode trio will reduce the alternator's ability to produce current. So the more diodes that fail, the less power the alternator will generate. A bad connection or open circuit between the alternator output terminal and the positive battery terminal will force the charging current to follow a parallel route through the diode trio and out of the alternator. This heavier than normal current flow through the diodes will cause them to overheat and fail. Consequently, if you have replaced an alternator before because of bad diodes, and the replacement fails for the same reason, there is likely a bad connection or open circuit between the alternator BAT (B+) terminal and the positive side of the battery circuit. Do a voltage drop test to check the entire circuit. To do a voltage drop test, with the engine idling, touch one test lead of your voltmeter to the battery positive (+) post, and the other test lead to the BAT (B+) terminal on the alternator. Ideally, the voltmeter should read less than 0.2 volts. If you see a voltage reading greater than 0.2 volts, it means there is excessive resistance somewhere in the circuit causing a voltage drop in the wiring circuit. Check all the wiring connections (use electronics cleaner to clean connections), and make sure the terminal connectors on the ends of the wires are clean and tight. A negative side ground circuit test is made by touching one voltmeter test lead to the alternator housing, and the other test lead to the negative battery post (not the terminal clamp) with the engine running and charging system loaded. If good, the voltage drop should be 0.2 volts or less. If higher, inspect and clean all ground connections as needed. Also, check for broken, loose or missing ground straps between the engine and body. Checking for voltage drops in a circuit is a good way to find hidden problems that may be causing a charging problem. Voltage drop tests must be done while the engine is idling with a charging load on the system. In other words, there must be voltage flowing through the circuit for the voltage drop test to detect a problem. Voltage always follows the path of least resistance, so if the connection being tested has too much resistance some of the voltage will flow through the voltmeter and create a small voltage reading. In any event, an auto electrician will be aware of the tests and causes stated above so I would advise consulting one if you have the means to perform the tests and come up empty handed. As far as your fuel pump issue is concerned, the ultimate decision as to which path you take is up to you. Weigh the costs of the OEM replacement with the aftermarket choice and if you're happy to go with the OEM, then take it. If on the other hand you intend to modify your vehicle at a later date, your OEM pump will not be capable of supplying the required fuel needed and you'll be looking at an aftermarket pump regardless. Like I said, what you do here is your choice.

A stock fuel pump will probably cost you a hell of a lot more than an aftermarket one. If you were to buy a second hand one, you may only get a limited amount of use from it before it too crashes and burns - it's a crapshoot. I would personally go for the aftermarket. I know a lot of people hang shit on the Walbro, but as long as you don't get a Chinese knock-off it'll be a good replacement for the stock pump. If you can get a new genuine pump for less than the Walbro, then you're a lucky man. I run one (455lph) and so does my BIL, and neither of us has had issues. As far as your electrical gremlins are concerned, I don't believe that a battery change could cause the issues that you're having. If your charging inside the required parameters then all should be good. I would like to say that the issues are just coincidental, but that sounds a little too far fetched. I dunno man, it's a weird one for sure.

It's the input shaft bearing. The throwout bearing makes a noise when you put the clutch pedal in. When you drive down the road is the whine constant and does it make a sound sound similar to a straight cut gearset?

That was a riot. Thanks again Olivia and Sami. I'll have my minor issue sorted and will be in my own car for the next one.

Greets man. The cut cost $6,500 with the Nismo gear. We didn't need anything else to complete the job. Yes mate, the ratios are different. Still undecided as to what to do but I believe that Brett is swaying towards leaving it as is for the time being. With the torque split controller in the car, he can dial the difference out.

Are you referring to the highlighted part?

And the bonnet latch bracket.