2LV8ETR

If you did a search man you would find a few threads on the subject. To cut a long story short, it's not worth it. Buy a GT-R or keep hoping you win Lotto.

Are you after the entire cluster or just the speedo?

They aren't cheap as they are highly sought after. I paid nearly $400 for my R32 300km/h Tomei speedo a couple of years back on eBay, not the cluster, just the speedo. It depends on how much you really want one. I really wanted one.

33's use an electronic pulse sensor, not a cable. But the same theory is in play, no speed input, no power/speed sensitive steering.

Okay what's happening is that the HICAS is sensing that the speed input is incorrect and will shut down the power and speed sensitive steering. Fix the speedo and it will return to normal.

This is a weird one. When you refer to the back lights, are you talking about the cluster illumination or the brake/tail lights. Also if you aren't using an aftermarket ECU, do you know if they swapped to a manual ECU or are you still using the auto ECU.

Stupid question - Was the speedometer working?

What I did with mine is looked for another lower binnacle section and ashtray from a wreck/half cut and drilled the holes into these, while keeping my original one in the shed. This way I can return it to normal with no holes whenever I wish. I placed switches in the lower binnacle, and my shift lamp controller in the ashtray.

Check the rocker cover screws to make sure that they are nipped up enough. Failing this, replace the gaskets.

That's weird, it's worked every time the breaker's failed. I must be a charmed and lucky person...

You're not going to have a catastrophic failure, she'll just slip like mad until the band gives way completely then you be missing that gear. If I were you, I'd leave the boost as is and baby her until you sort the issue. Either drop the manual in or replace the box with a second hand one for now, depending on your financial situation.

It's always a good time to go manual!

I probably didn't clarify what we did here. We left the original HNR wiring and dash in place while the transplant and fire up was being done. Once the start was accomplished and everything such as oil pressure was good, we road tested the car. When we came back from the test and gave it the thumbs up, we then ripped out the dash and replaced the HNR wiring loom with the BNR. I wasn't comfortable with doing the whole lot at once because the front cut was open to the elements before we got it and I didn't want to run the risk of tracing through three different wiring looms to find a fault. As it turned out, all was good.

Greets all. As some of you may know, Payback21 had bought himself a BNR32 front cut that we were going to shoehorn into his HNR32 (Gts-4). Well the build is now finished after 2 weekends worth of work and we thought that we'd share the experience to let anyone else who's interested know, what we did and how we went about it. Firstly, the arrival of the front cut. This is what the girl looked like before we tore her apart. Now we get down to the nitty gritty. We jacked her up and placed her onto stands, then removed the usual items but also the front fenders. The reason for the removal of the fenders was for easier access to feed the wiring looms. The way we wanted to go about the swap was to remove the sub-frame, engine, and gearbox in one piece from the front cut, and transfer the whole lot over to the donor vehicle. And so it begins with a little help from my son. Next we jacked up the front of the car and supported the sub-frame with stands. Now we removed the driveline items and supported the gearbox with a trolley jack. Then we removed the bolts for the sub-frame and gearbox crossmember. Then we slowly lowered the sub-frame and gearbox down to more stands. Next we jacked up the front of the car to a point where we had enough clearance for the complete setup to clear the bottom of the front frame. We used truck stands under the chassis to support it while we were moving the engines around. We then transferred the trolley jack to under the sub-frame, jacked it up, removed the stands, then moved the setup out using just the trolley jacks. At this point we swapped over both sides of the wiring loom because it's easy to get to everything with no engine in the way. Now it's time to fit the 26, here's one we prepared earlier.... Now using a reverse system to the way we removed the 20, we slotted the 26 in lowering the car slowly and checking all of our clearances on both sides of the engine. As we slowly lowered the car to a point where we could still reach underneath, we stabilised the car then set about lifting the setup using the trolley jacks and aligning the sub-frame bolts, and gearbox crossmember holes. Once everything was lined up and bolted in, we proceeded to connect all of the other pipes, tubes, wires, etc... All wired up and ready to fire. We primed the fuel line then turned the key......... First pop and she was rumbling away. This is how she was road tested . Next, we wanted to install the triple cluster so out came the dash and we exchanged the GT-R wiring loom in. We wanted to fire the car up and get her running before we did this step in case there was an issue on fire up, there would be less wiring to track the fault down to. All back together again and ready to rumble. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. See you on the next cruise!

First, why didn't you have the flywheel machined instead of buying a new one? Second, use an impact driver on the bolts. If you don't know what one is, no it's not a rattle gun. It's a solidly built cylindrical tool that you put your socket onto, place it against the offending bolt, then hit the bitch with a wife pacifier. it drives the force of the hammer blow onto the bolt and provides a small twist at the same time that undoes the bolt.

Hahaha! Good job Dad, I would love to have seen him on the job. Good to hear that the expensive stuff has survived. I still think a c$#t punt is in order.

It sounds like the output shaft seal. Double check to make sure it's not coming from the top of the box by removing the gearbox insulator and look at the area around the shifter dust boot. Another point where it may come from is the breather, which will spill the oil over the top of the box as well. If these areas are clean, then it's the output shaft seal.

They were probably tweakers.....

That's because they're too busy with their feet up on their desks pigging out on donuts. If you tell them that some idiotwas hooning around going sideways at 100km/h in a 60 zone and almost hit you, then they abused the shit out of you, they would get up and do something about it. Try it next time, it would bet my left nut that it would work.

Drop and check the gearbox oil. If the oil in the box looks dark and smells burnt then the bands are probably ready for renewal and probably the best thing is to get a service exchange box.

BANG!

Here's the link to the events: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4669884.

Yes

Trailing-throttle is a form of oversteer that occurs when the vertical load on the tires shifts from the rear to the front quickly due to throttle release while cornering. This decrease in vertical load causes a decrease in the lateral force generated by the rear axle, so the axle starts to accelerate towards the outside of the turn. This steers the car more tightly into the turn, hence causing oversteer. In essence, this means that easing off the throttle causes the rear wheels to break away suddenly, with the potential for the car to leave the road tail first. Trail-braking is a subtle driving technique that allows for later braking and increased corner entry speed. The classical technique is to complete braking before turn-in. This is a safer, easier technique for the driver because it separates traction management into two phases, braking and cornering, so the driver doesn't have to chew gum and walk at the same time, as it were. With the trail-braking technique, the driver carries braking into the corner, gradually trailing off the brakes while winding in the steering. Since braking continues in the corner, it's possible to delay its onset in the preceding straight braking zone. Since it eliminates the sub-optimal moments between the ramp-down from braking and the ramp-up to limit cornering by overlapping them, entry speeds can be higher. The combination of these two effects means that the advantage of later braking is carried through the first part of the corner. In many ways, this is the flip side to corner exit, where any speed advantage due to superior technique gets carried all the way down the ensuing straight. The magnitude of the trail-braking effect is much smaller, though perhaps a car length or two for a typical corner. Done consistently, though, it can accumulate to whole seconds over a course.

If you were going to upgrade the turbo, boost, injectors, etc then you would be increasing the amount of exhaust flow which the 2 1/2" would be pushing to cope with. 2 1/2" with everything else stock is sufficient for now. If you were to upgrade though, the exhaust, IC and intake are the first things that should be considered. This will give you a solid start to achieving your desired goals, this depends of course with your desired power levels.