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The steering will work for a little while, then the HICAS will spit the dummy due to signal loss. This is when the steering becomes heavy.

In most cases there will be an arrow on the tee, make sure this side points to the wastegate. Secondly, you've got the boost wound up too high and it's hitting the boost cutout. Make sure you screw the adjuster all the way in so that if you were to blow into it, no air would escape the opposite side. Then perform your road test and wind the adjuster out in small increments until the desired boost level is achieved.

The HICAS and power steering is controlled by the speedometer input. The faster you go, the heavier the steering, the slower you go the lighter the steering. Fix the speedo cable and all will be well.

I'd say you should be good. Most cops don't like to get their hands dirty (makes their donuts taste bad). Give it a go and see how you go man.

Keep an eye on this one going at the moment, you may want to jump in also. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4650957

Looks like it should fool them, there looks to be no large gaps for them to peer from the front, but if you can see evidence of the cuts from inside the engine bay, address it.

As always, Pandora's box is going to open here with a variety of people saying this and that are crap. I've run a Walbro 455hp for 2 years now with no issues, and a friend is also running a Walbro with no issues. I heard bad stories about them but I would say that those stories derived from the influx of Chinese knock-offs that flooded the market a while back. Another mate has had many issues with Holley pumps, but those were addressed when he installed a Bosch item. You can research all you want with this man but most of the high-powered brutes I've seen have used Bosch pumps. But I can honestly say that the Walbro's we've used have stood strong.

When dealing with eBay sellers it's best to check their feedback before doing anything. FEEDBACK SCORE This guy's feedback is pretty good, though as stated before, the shipping will be a bitch. Another point to raise would be the AUD conversion. At the moment it's not the best, but if you can get one shipped here cheaper than you can buy one locally, it may be worth a go. The main issue being that if the donk was broken, you'll have a hard time getting your money back. I must also be looking in the wrong places. I've never seen an RB26 for that sort of money. I just had a quick look and found: For 26's, $6,800, $7,500, $8,200. For 25's, $2,250, $2,500, $6,500 (500hp), $3,200, $2,800, $2,800.

Cutting into any structural part of the vehicle is illegal. You can't even cut the 6" holes in the rear parcel shelf to fit 6x9 speakers. The only way around your dilemma legally is to fit an FMIC that is suited specifically to the 33, and to replace the reinforcement crash bar. If your front bar completely hides the fact that the bar was cut, then don't stress until you've been done. Then it's something you'll need to address.

I'm 43 and I still get shafted. Mainly because I'll argue with them when they are blatantly wrong.

Wank factor.

After I got done for the first time before my mod permit, I told him after he wrapped it up that I hope I don't see him again. This was when he told me that he would and after a small discussion told me that the police have final say in any doubts about the legitimacy of the modification. When I got done the second time, I pulled up just as the gates opened and walked into the office. He just walked in when I was waiting for someone to serve me, saw me, then said I told you so. He put his lunch box behind the counter, then came out and had a look at the defect notice. I pulled into the inspection pit and he lifted the bonnet and told me that the BOV I got done for was the same one. He then had a quick look around the car then passed me with no need for any modification. After we got finished he asked me the circumstances leading up to the defect notice because the cop had put the sticker on an angle, and after I told him what happened he said that the cop was "an officious idiot". I have been back to the same guy another 2 times making a total of four and each time since, no further mods have been applied. I only had a small issue with a very minor power steering leak the last time and he told me to sort it out when I get home, which I did. One comment he made to me that made me realise the whole process is a joke is that the cops have no formal training in mechanics and some have only minor training in ADR's. Most of it is just guess work and plain arrogance.

So does painting your car red.

The Gts-t and Gts-4 can use the same FMIC. The piping route is exactly the same. You would have no reason whatsoever to put an FMIC on an NA vehicle, unless you want wank factor.

180km/h

Here's a link: RB25DET Pinout

Sorry man, I was showing the R32 ECU. The R33 ECU EPROM is the dude on the top left. It is stock. If it was chipped it would have a different label over the photosensitive port like this one. It may have been flashed. Sorry man, I can't help any more visually.

There could be an aftermarket EPROM, or someone could have flashed the existing one. To know if it's aftermarket, remove the ECU and the cover. Be careful here as the PCB's are static sensitive. Once you get the cover off, there will another PCB over the top of the main board. You'll see this: See where the big blob of brown is on the lower LHS corner? That's the EPROM. This is a Mines ECU so they have placed a tamperproof resin over the EPROM. The stock EPROM will have a silver label over it with a typical #####-##### Nissan part number on it.

ECU's can be chipped to remove the boost cutout, speed limiter, rev limiter, etc. The best way to tell is to open it up and see if the original EPROM exists.

The permit is a waste of time, even if you have one. The filth will tell you that you've swapped the permitted item with a different illegal one, and there's nothing you can do about it. They get the final say and you get the shaft. It's happened to me. The best thing to do is to build a good relationship with your inspector and try to see the same one every time if possible. That way, he can turn you around ASAP and with minimal fuss. The one I use knows me well.

Very nice, welcome!

Yes, you remove the tank and fill it with the compound. Then seal the pump access hole and rotate the tank so the compound covers the entire surface. The Gts-t is 60 litres from memory.

I had issues with a couple of tanks and I've bought some gear by a mob called KBS Coatings. Basically it's a multi-stage process that cleans the tank out, then coats the inside with a sealer that stops the rust issues. Excellent stuff and $100.00 coats a 100 litre tank. I still had the link for the product - KBS Coatings. And these are the WA distributors - Distributor List. I've used it on a couple of old project cars and an ex race 80's bike.

Cheap turbos are cheap because they are crap, and will cost you in the long run. There is a thread at the moment discussing the fact and really man, you should try to do something else. They aren't worth it. The thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=4647954

The only thing Grant stipulated with mine was that I was not to exceed the maximum boost level of the unit.