2LV8ETR

This is the reason I went with Per4manz, their warranty is, "All of our units are backed by a written Warranty for a period of 12 months, 20,000km, 500 hours for new units & 6 months, 10,000km 250 hours for reconditioned units." 4 years old, 28psi, and still going strong. Gotta love it!

This is his negative feedback - CLICK ME. Enough said......

Yeah there's a warranty, but it's crap: *3 month warranty commences from the date the item is posted. *Any faulty item must be returned (at customer’s expense) to PCPA. If a new item is sent, customer must pay for return postage. *Must report any manufacture faults with-in 3 days of when the item is delivered. *Other than the faulty part, we do not take any responsibility for damages to other parts which may have been damaged. *Warranty is only valid by a professional mechanic which has expertise in the field in which the car part is used for. A tax invoice also must be provided to give proof of the fitting. *Warranty is void if the item is used for any type of racing or illegal street driving. *Warranty is void if the item is altered in anyway. *Warranty is void if any attempt has been made to repair a faulty item. What a load of toss.......

I've always been weary with eBay turbochargers. It's not worth the money if she goes and takes the engine with it. That's my opinion, but someone else may have had success with using it.

If the muffler is in good condition I would have it welded up. It should only cost $10-20.

These are T-Taps.

Scotch lock quick splice connectors. You can also use T-taps. Should have mentioned. Go to any car parts mob like Malz, or Stupid Cheap. You'll have a better chance of finding them there than at Jaycar who are more electronics oriented.

Argh! Sacrilege!

They're on two different circuits. The lighter power and light power sources are different. I had a guy come to me wanting me to wire in 8 gauges (yes 8) in his car. What I had to do was use relays to power both sides and use the spare in his fuse box for overload. If you're only running the one gauge you'll be okay to pick it up from the lighter light circuit, even better if you used LED's to keep the current draw down.

You need an RB20DET auto ECU, the Gts-4 means nothing, it's only for the engine. I just sold one on eBay for $1.00!! I had it advertised for a while with no takers and just wanted it gone. Bummer dude.

I believe a Nissan Patrol from the same era uses the same master. Give Nissan a ring and they will be able to confirm that.

As another option, you should be able to pick up a second hand head complete for around the $500 mark if you want to go that way.

Where have you mounted the gauge?

Each to their own man, everybody's opinion is different. However, even though your voltmeter will show 12V, you may not be able to crank the engine due to lack of amperage. Also if you read what I stated in my previous response to this, I advised that the voltmeter be connected to the IGN, not the ACC. Whichever way you do it is up to you entirely, but don't count on the voltmeter for the reason stated above. Voltmeters are used primarily if your vehicle is not installed with a charge fault warning lamp to alert you if the charge is insufficient or exceeding the required parameters. The R34 is fitted with this lamp, so in essence what Gts-t VSPEC has stated is correct, but people install them for a certain effect in their cars. Nobody is saying what you are doing is wrong, but more that it's not completely necessary. Again, each to their own and what you do is your choice. Later man.

Drop the knee panel under the steering column and it'll be there. It runs down from the center of the steering column, and if you have an immobiliser installed, you'll notice a heap of black wires taped up into this harness. A word of warning - If you want to start tapping into the ECU harness without knowing exactly what wire does what, you could end up paying for it. Some of the pinouts on the ECU are very sensitive and being a self confessed noob, I wouldn't put any money on you pulling the job off. Another point to consider here is that if you load up too many things on the ECU harness, you could end up frying something or constantly blowing fuses and you'll begin to wonder why. The advice is good as long as you know what you're doing. I've seen some bodgy work in this area due to turbo timers, and even aftermarket cruise controls, just be bloody careful. Behind the center console is a good spot if you are going to be installing the gauge near there, but the same rule applies with overloading the circuit. Another point with the cigarette lighter circuit is that it initiates on ACC, which means that the gauge will be powered up when you're parked somewhere listening to music or whatever. I once had a member come to me trying to figure out why he was constantly blowing fuses. He had wired his boost controller switch to the OEM radio circuit and it couldn't take the extra power surge. It's just something to keep in mind here. You can wire up to this circuit if you wish, but keep in mind these factors. As far as the yellow wire is concerned, some gauges are self dimming, some have a smoke background which automatically light on power up, some have a wire to bypass the power up "welcome", and others have a separate light source, or a combination of all of these factors. The only way to find out for certain is to momentarily tap the wire to the +12v once you locate your supply. Good luck man.

If there are leaks present, (which you should have noticed already) address that symptom first. The most usual cause of engine oil consumption is worn valve guides, usually the exhaust guides or worn rings. Run the engine for several minutes at idle. Turn the engine off and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Restart the engine and immediately increase the engine speed while observing the exhaust. If a heavy billow of bluish smoke is exhausted then disappears and the exhaust remains relatively clean, the most likely cause is excessive valve guide wear. In this case, the valve guides or valve guide seals require service. If the above test only produces mild smoke and the smoke remains at the same level during all operating conditions, the piston rings will have to be compression tested. Use both the dry and wet methods with WOT for a good evaluation.

You quoted previously, "I suspected as such too. This guy does like to argue for the sake of arguing or whenever there's a way to show off some knowledge." There's more than one of them out there. He likes to have the last word too, wait for it..........

There are a few places where the clutch can be squeaky. 1: Pedal box pivot joint (common) 2: Clutch master cylinder thrust rod - a: at pedal connection (common). b: at ball and socket. 3: Slave cylinder thrust rod - a: at fork pivot point. b: at ball and socket. 4: Clutch throw out fork pivot. 5: Throw out bearing carrier. Instead of using CRC/WD40, use a light film of grease instead.

My opinion: Hi flow air filter, 3" exhaust, dump pipe. This will open up the air/exhaust restrictions. Once you've done this and your wallet has recuperated, ask again.

Depends on where you site the gauge, but the best place to wire it into is the ignition harness under the steering column knee panel. If you have a multimeter or volt tester you can find the wire when you switch the ignition on. You'll obviously need to extend the wiring to reach your desired tap point but there are usually 7 day auto shops open who will have what you need to successfully perform your task.

Okay, the thing that confused me was the lack of mention of a ground wire. The red goes to IGN, and the black to ground. I assume with this model of gauge (I haven't come across Dragon Gauge) that the yellow wire performs a small lah-de-dah when you first switch the ignition on. Some will light up and some will make sounds, or a combination of both. If you don't want the "opening ceremony" leave the yellow wire disconnected. Let me know how you get on.

A brand name, model and pic of the wiring will help. I've installed a few of these and they are all different.

^^^^+1. Also check your cradle bushes.

What was the verdict bro?

Sydneykid has hit the nail on the head. The other things that differ between sedans and coupes is the tail lights and boot. The lights are a different shape and the boot caters to suit. Apart from the obvious rear quarter panels and doors, everything else is interchangeable. Many of us (me included) have GT-R goodies on our sedans, such as front end and full interior.