2LV8ETR

"We run a -2.5 camber on the track car, and -1.5 and -3 toe in on the drift car just for handling reasons." The typo was in the -3 toe in. The other figure referred to CAMBER. So for you to understand it reads "We run a -2.5 camber on the track car, and -1.5 camber and -3 rear toe out on the drift car just for handling reasons. In the links I had showed the reference to toe out in a drift car which was the argument all along.

BTW IMO any training for someone who has none will improve his skills and reactions more than someone who has not had any. Over here in WA we can't just rock up to a track and do a hundred laps to improve ourselves, we need a CAMS license. Then you have to wait until a tuner day becomes available, not to mention the joining fee for the WASCC to be eligible for the tuning days. If you want to use the track, the minimum fee is $3500 for a weekday and $4500 for a weekend day. The AHG driver course will improve his skills and understanding. You've never done one over here, so for you to comment that he won't learn anything is wrong, he will learn something. Events such as these CLICK 1 and CLICK 2 are exactly what he needs. I don't know what you've got in SA but it sounds pretty good, I may have to move over there if that's the case.

Each to their own. The driver is an ex speedway super sedan champ and likes the back end loose. It may not be what you would call a sound setup, but he's been going sideways for over 12 years and it's what he wants. It works for him and as he's the one behind the wheel, that's what he gets. Because you use a different setup, it doesn't mean his is wrong. Many drift drivers dial in rear toe out for the same reason. Research it for yourself and you'll see. Look here: http://www.drift.hr/forum/showthread.php?t=150 Here under the title Suspension: http://driftjapan.com/blog/drift-glossary/ Here under the title Toe In Toe Out: http://autoracing.suite101.com/article.cfm...up_for_drifting Like I said, each to his own.

Pardonnez mon français, ça a été un moment. La meilleure chose à faire pour vous est de laisser l'ABS unité où il est et peut avoir une capture fabriqué à vos besoins. Il finissent par être moins cher.

Whoops, a typo. -3 toe out on the rear as it reduces rear stability.

He wouldn't happened to have been a little guy with greyish hair by any chance?

Wrong move. Because you've moved to a more powerful vehicle with an LSD, I can only suggest that you keep and eye on the forums for the next driver training course that's held at AHG. They will teach you what to do in situations like this. They are usually posted in the WA events forum. It's usually about $60-70 and you take your own car.

CRD +1.

Just for your info, the power steering is speed sensitive. What this means is that at low speed the steering will be light and agile, whereas at high speed the steering will be heavier. Because the sensitivity is determined by the speed of the vehicle, it needs an input from the speedo to tell the power steering how much to increase/decrease the sensitivity. The car realises that you are travelling at speed, doesn't cop any input from the sensor, so it spits the dummy and cancels out the lighter steering setting for safety reasons.

Like I said, if you have any real doubts, get the alignment done, and a couple of days after installing them will be ok. Many cars run with negative camber on the road for handling reasons so it isn't a major drama. We run a -2.5 camber on the track car, and -1.5 and -3 toe in on the drift car just for handling reasons. The 4 wheel alignment should only take between 30-60 minutes depending on how good your man and his equipment is. In saying that though, if you've strayed too far from the original height, he won't be able to adjust the camber to suit, unless you either purchase adjustable arms or concentric bushes. He may need to lower, or heighten the car to bring it within range. Take an eyebrow measurement before you install the new coilovers, and adjust them to the original height after a bit of a drive to allow them to settle before seeing him.

I've never used the Apexi filters, but I use, and have steered people towards the HKS items. They only cost $40-50 to replace the foam filter but they are also washable. I use a one on, one off system and wash the alternate filter every 10,000 km - my preference. BTW: DO NOT oil them. There's my 20c worth.

No it shouldn't change. Camber will kill the tyres quickly though. I was running only -1.5 for about 3-4 months and it ate the shit out of the inside track. I only did it consciously till I was able to take delivery of the adjustment kit after slamming my car into the weeds. You can spot the -/+ camber by squatting in front of, or behind the car easily enough. If you have any real doubts, just get an alignment done, it's cheaper than new tyres.

GT-R downpipes to cat, and an FMIC will help.

Convert 26 from AWD sump to standard. Convert 26 box transfer case or install 25 box (if you have a manual 25 you'll be ok) Wiring loom. Common sense and electrical/mechanical knowledge.

Loss of the speedo will cancel the power steering out. Replace the cable and all will be fine.

I'd say he was referring to ride height camber adjustment. You can get aftermarket components that will solve the isse if you adjust the height to any degree from stock.

That's how they work. You adjust the amount o air bleeding out of the bottom by adjusting the screw on top. When you first put it in, adjust the screw so no air escapes from the bottom (or side - whichever way this type works) and then road test it and bleed the air out gradually until you reach the desired boost level.

They work best when they are as close to the wastegate actuator as possible. If you want to place it where the tee is in pic one, go for it, it's your car. Just place it on the right hand side of the tee leaving a small amount of the current line near the tee so if you want to put it closer to the wastegate at a later date, you won't have to stretch the line to connect back to the tee.

Correct. Normally the bleed outlet is just a tiny hole somewhere on the body of the controller, but I have seen this type before and they use the bottom outlet because it's larger and won't clog up from the PCV oil vapour.

Tap it into the wastegate actuator line in pic 3. There should be an arrow on the tee that usually points the side to the wastegate. The third point of the tee (the bottom) is more than likely the bleed outlet.