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If it's the throwout (thrust) bearing it will be noisy when the clutch is engaged. If the noise occurs when the clutch is disengaged, then subsides when the clutch is engaged it is more often than likely your output shaft bearing.

If you have the money, invest in a swirl pot. I have also heard of (not tried) people parking on steep inclines or on car ramps so the radiator cap is the highest part of the cooling system, and letting the car idle with the cap off.

Mine cost $320.00. Drove in, they made it up, balanced it, then drove out.

You don't have your location up on the left column, so I can't help you with regards to your area. But in saying that, places such as Malz, Auto One, and Stupid Cheap are usually open for a while on Sundays, as are 7 day shops which there are 3 of close to me. Your best bet is to search in the Yellow Pages or Localink for stores advertising 7 day trading. Good luck.

Most auto electrical shops carry them, as well as good auto part suppliers.

I ask first before getting in the car, if the owner was to refuse I'd walk away. Have done it to every car I have bought, it's the only way to see if the engine is on the way out. But yes, ask first.

Active LSD came standard on all V-spec R33 GT-R Skylines and was also available as an option on a certain amount of ECR33 GTS25t models, identifiable by the A-LSD and SLIP lights on the tachometer.

I went with a single shaft I had made up at Veem Engineering.

No fair Bubba!!!!

Is Buddah Fat?

Definitely glad I walked away before making a massive financial mistake. :)

Nitto NT555R Extreme Drag

Greets man. The best way to find something is to use the search function. It'll help you find things faster. I found this for you to get you started. RB30 Threads Enjoy man.

:)

Shit.......... I took me that long to get it down, you found the answer. I typed all of this for nothing. Boohoo

Greets man. There's always going to be a debate as to whether removing an airbag from an SRS equipped vehicle is a good idea or not. Personally I thinks it's a bad idea as they are there to save your life in the event of a high speed crash, but ultimately the decision is yours. The other argument is one of legality. If you want your car to remain 100% roadworthy, then do not remove the airbag as it will give Mr Plod an excuse to slap a canary on your windscreen. In saying all of this, if you wish to go forward with the idea then the process is fairly common with most SRS equipped vehicles. As I have not removed one from an R33 before I can tell you what I have come across with a few other cars that were pretty much the same configuration. Disconnect the battery. Sit in the seat and look at the steering wheel. On the side of the wheel looking at 3 and 9 o'clock you'll notice a cap on each side. Remove the caps and you'll see a T50 tamperproof torx screw under each cap. Remove the torx screws and this will loosen the airbag portion of the wheel. There will be a wire connector that needs to be disconnected for the airbag to be removed completely. You'll see the nut that holds the steering wheel in place on the shaft. Loosen the nut but don't remove the nut completely. Make sure you leave couple of threads because you'll smack yourself in the head when you pull the wheel off. It takes a fair bit of a tug but you can do it by hand, no need for bearing pushers or anything like that. Presto. Now you may have issues with the airbag light coming on. Most times it's easy to remove the bulb but there is a special way of fooling the computer into thinking there's one present. Here's the procedure: You will need a 2.7ohms resister which can be bought from any electronics outlet. Solder the Resistor across the to wires from the Airbag loom and shield with electrical tape or heat shrink. Leave the driver's door open. Turn the ignition on so all dash lights are on but do not start engine. When you have turned the key to that point, press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times rapidly in succession, within 7 seconds of turning ignition lights on. Now the airbag light will flash at a different rate to before. 1 long flash followed by 2 short flashes (the diagnostic system is now registering the fault in the airbag system). Now turn the ignition off and close the door. Open the door again. Turn the ignition on again until all dash lights are on but do not starting the engine. Quickly press the drivers door interior light switch 7 times in rapid succession. The air bag light SHOULD start flashing at a single rate (the diagnostic system is now registering that the airbag circuit is now working correctly). Turn the ignition off ,remove the key, and close the door. Turn the ignition back on and the airbag light should go out after a few seconds. Later.

Here ya go. Hi-Octane Racing Ross Tuffbond Nexus

Nah man, don't panic. Like I said, long term abuse will lead to issues. Relax dude and enjoy. Your little girl's sweet.

The main issues are lubrication and running temps. It's not the best thing to do, but your engine will be okay for this small lapse of stupidity. If you were the kind of person who revs up every time you start the car you will end up with issues in the long run. Punch a hole in your mate's chest if he pulls that stunt again.

I wouldn't bother turbocharging an NA engine. There would be too much to do and it would cost too much to get it turbo capable. You'd be better off buying an RB25DET Neo and throwing that in instead. As for the T51, don't do it unless you're willing to spend big bucks to provide all of the supporting mods. The choice is yours in the end, but as you asked for advice, this is my opinion. Good luck with your decision.

Sorry man, I don't want to state the obvious but did you check the fuse in the engine bay?

Your manual ECU will plug straight in. The diff gears on the auto are different to the manual, so the auto will crank through the gears quicker.

It's just an example of a pipe with no restriction, I wasn't going to go searching the net for the cheapest one out there. Onya bro for doing his research for him!

I wouldn't. My main reason is due to the pinch restriction at the flange where it joins to the dump pipe. Damn stupid idea, they should have kept it 3" all the way to the flange. Here is a better example of a decent cheapie: Check me out